dutchzcarguy

It was/is made from black rubber.. Get yourself a car inner tube at a tire shop (ask for a leaky one, you will get it for free) and make some packings yourself!

Left is the toggle switch to your electric antenna! (In/Out).. And the right can be the turn signal unit or the emergency lights unit as it has them both and are of different wattage.

Yes, what that is is a spanner for torqing the headbolts of a s20 engine to about 65Nm.. nothing special i think.. Funny is to start the "read this website to me" in Japanese.. and even more fun is to change the website to another language and let "her"read that! Sounds very funny!

PM me.. i think i have some euro (Same as usa style.) ones that didn't get to much sun.. (I'm not sure but i think i have 2 left..)

I've seen those here in europe too, i think they're just terrebly ugly.. but to each his own! (the red and orange does not go in a strait line on the pic above, makes it even worse..)

And.. yes those are the right rear side windows.. 🙂 (could also not find the numbers on how far you should torc the bolts from a mustashbar thingy.. 😉 ) so you did right to look for the standard nmbr for those bolt mm.. and use some blue stuff.

Ofcourse i didn't say that.. i said if you drive a 500-1000 km a year a old ignition is no problem, you have to maintain it ofcourse and it's original..

I think i heared some bad things here about the ignition unit of the 280z here... and when i look at the Zero problems i got with my 240z ignition.. (this is a old one with contacts) i thought, why change? So... what should I install then, does it really work better and is it reliable because thats the most important thing to me.. RELIABILITY !! (If someone is going to say buy a pertronix.. i say: i don't want that sh*t in my car!!! not reliable as i saw people do have trouble with them.)

Why change? Unless you drive 20k miles a year.. I drove 20k Km's in 20 years and on 1 !! set of points! hahaha.. it's a reliable system, i personnally think it's even better than the electronic sh*t thats in my 280.... (Just check that your capacitor is in good condition.. put in a new one for a dollar!! or 3... 😉 ) newer is not always better! Also the rev counter needs a signal that is different from the 280z stuff.. (i heard..) so why bother!

I don't think it's a Nissan pump.. ( one of the 4 makers that supplied to Nissan) Otherwise they would have said so.. now it says "original look"

I used carb cleaner to on mine.. first i blew some compressed air and then some carbcleaner through the fuel inlets of the carbs.. (As there are airvents, (i checked that first haha) on the carbs it's no trouble/problem to blow some air into them, in fact you can hear the air escaping from the airfilter inlet !! ) Then i connected the fuel inlets to the rail and the car started right up. If i leave the car now for a few weeks then 1 or both are closed again and don't open.. it runs for 20 sec's and dies or keeps on stumbling on one carb or dies when 2 are staying empty.. Remedy is then to blow them with some compressed air or hit them with something like a little hammer or as cliff said a screwdriver handle! IT WORKS! To 70z4fun, I think i first replace my pump with one of my new ones to check if the new pump has a bit more pressure to open those little valves, and then i know 100% that those pumps fit a 240z.. but everything on those pumps say: i fit... 😉 Oh and Steve, i will also prime the new pump by hand before i put it in the hole of the L24 block.. good call.

Yeah now with covid i almost don't use any car... and it gets stuck.. when i hit the carbs a little the car starts right up and stays on.. maybe the needles are a little worn out? (the ones that open and close with the floaters in the fuelbowl) It could be the 51 year old pump or the 2 floaterbowl needle valves.. Somebody had more experience with it.. solutions? 👍

Same here yesterday! I (softly) hit the fuelbowls with a hammer and there it go's! At first it starts and dies after 20 seconds (about.. ) Haha i suspected bad (worn) needle-valves OR a to low pressure fuelpump.. i think i have to put on one of my new nissan pumps.. I got one for sale still orig. (nissan 6 cyl. pumps.) in the box. When there is no fuel in the filter it looks like a defect pump to me.. i got fuel in mine but still had the problem of dry floatchambers..

I bet there are 4 of them... at least 3. 😮

Took a look and i don't think it's even a Datsun/Nissan Z/ZXpart.. I have never seen this part.

Some buy it in bulk and others per piece? The global spot where you get the part is also a player in the game.. and then there are differences in quality.. a waterpump for a L24 for example costs in the Usa 15-20 dollar..? Overhere i get excited when i can get me one for 50 euro! Not the nockoff china stuff with the steel plate impellor.. i want the original die-cast metal impellor! (wich is more expensive but can/will work for decades!!) The original will have much better and water tight ball bearings..

Well thank you.. May i ad the German language to... Ja? Sehr gut mein Freund! Ich habe gar keine ahnung wie wir von auswuchten auf das thema hunden zu sprechen kamen? 😂

No no... it was just like a giant (flat) dishwasher, one with a basket i it and a spaying and turning water and sope spraybar thingy... hahaha ... Party on! Cliff!! 😂

NISSAN calls them the releasebearing? and i'm surprised that you needed to press them on? I just fit it to the axle and ready.. And btw, i don't have a machinist.. (My engine needed just a clean up.. (after 120000km.)) I only took the head to a machinist to clean it in a special washing machine.

You could buy it in bulk, then it's much cheaper then in 1 ltr (or qrt) bottles.. oil does not get old very fast..

In my L24 and L28 i use 10w40. (even in my 300zx Vg30dett i use 10w40.. as it was recommended for the z32.) The L series engines are in medium to colder temps on 10w40 or 10w50.. i can imagine to use 20w50 but that's a heavy oil more used on engines that have many miles on it.. (It is possible that in the 280 engined cars the oilpressure light go's on when idling on 600rpm or so.. thats normal.. always check the oil on your camshaft when this is the case you'll see that it is oiled well and then that's OK! Also putting the idle rpm on 650-700 as is standard, solves this problem most of the time.)

Thanks guys for the answers, i have not dicided yet but i take a fidanza or the original...i think the last, i like a engine that i can drive with 800rpm in high gear hahaha... I often did this with my first 280zx (in the '90's..) and it astonished me every time again that i could drive that car till i was at home ON the driveway in 5th! without any stumble! (just don't floor it on low rpm's and all is well..)

I took a look (again) in the serv.man. (L20A-L24-L26-L28 series engines) and there is nothing about marking any of the rotating parts before taking it apart.. As i can see that the crankshaft and the flywheel have both theire balancing drilled holes i asume that they are balanced apart.. It would be a good idea to balance it all together as a extra.. (But just don't think i'm gonna take it all apart AGAIN! 🙈) I don't know how much a standard flywheel weighs, but i think it's more than twice the weight of a Fidanza ( seen 10,4 10,7 and 13 Lbs.) say almost 6 kg. a original is over 10 kg easely.. On second thoughts.. i think i leave it alone haha..

Hi Guys, I've got a question and i think i know the answer but not sure haha.. As i'm slowly ending the resto of my 280zx slickroof i'm considering a light flywheel on the L28. I think the flywheel and crank are balanced apart of each other as they can be bolted together on more than one way? (6) .. I was thinking of putting one of my spare flywheels on a lathe and get rid of a few pounds haha.. Looked at a Fidanza flywheel but i think they are to light! (and also expensive!) And another question is do i need to re-balance the thinner flywheel? Has anyone here experience with this? THanks! Mart.

Happy to hear your OK Cliff, Do you know if it was the omicron variant? or delta? If you did'nt loose taste i believe you had the omicron.. Btw.. ON topic.. @Mike I don't complain about the slow site, i'm here on a free ride and glad that i can do this for free! (i'm sitting home now for almost 22 years.. can't do much anymore so i'm glad to communicate with you guys about the hobby.) But i have not seen a reaction on here from you Mike since Zedhead started this topic.. Is there nothing you can do about it? Just asking.. i just clicked a topic and it just did'nt load ever.. then this topic and it loaded on the spot.. this is weird to say the least.. is'nt it? Hey Cliff.. i can imagine how happy you were when you could go to work! I wish i could to but i'm "o3" forever...... (Yeah i wanted to use a abriv.. 😉 )