siteunseen

Maybe use a friend of your friends? They make $15 an hour around here so a Benjamin goes a long way.

Just guessing. I'm bored, maybe you can only go 4.5 down is the linkage is stopping it. In this photo where the scribe is in the hole one the nozzle and through the hole on the connecting flat bar. If you take that screw out it'll go down 10 with ease. If the screws in you'll have resistance from the linkage springs and what not. And that plate I think Mark is talking about has a screw in it to keep it in place. The reason for this screw from all I've read is to turn the knob all the way up untill snug then use that screw to adjust dead center up. Edit. It has something to do with the makers on the knob. I used a Sharpie on mine.

Has anybody recommended letting a police officer check the vin #? I've done it before buying a car and they got all the info I wanted. Maybe he doesn't have the vin? Haven't read the thread. Okay, skimmed through and found no vin. Good luck with your search.

I keep my carb hose connected and plug the other end that connects to the vacuum advance with a golf tee. I have no idea what that does or doesn't do but it's what I've always done. When I do the 3,000 rpm full advance feature on my light I hook it back up. No golf tee. 240 and 280 are the same at 17 and 34. My cars really like advance. I may be destroying them today but I'll let the next owner deal with that. I'm having fun today...

Yeah I forgot to ask is a JY distributor or a new remanufactured one. I bought a '79 which seems to be the most desirable one from amazon plus the matching coil a Crane Fireball PS20 I think. Works great. The problem with the junkyard dizzys are the vacuum advance ball bearing cages are plastic and break apart 40 years later disabling the feature and getting steel balls stuck to the stator. My '77 is suffering that now. And I'm here to tell you it doesn't run as good without that advace. I'm gonna put a new one on asap but that is asaIfli, as soon as I feel like it. Priorities...

I chucked one right after a rebuild. I was breaking the motor in and heard a god awful tick from the valve train. Jeff told me the easy way to fix it and I've not had an issue since. @Jeff G 78 got instant hero status and respect from this guy. If you're ever in Alabama dinner and drinks are on me.

Max it out on the timing plate under the distributor. My car has the most advance I can get. Cam spocket on #3 from the git go and full advance on the timing plate. Runs great!

I miss Walter Moore! He had a great 240 and got hit, totaled it. Now he's gone from here since the wreck. Maybe he still checks on us? @Walter Moore

Was it the free beer, doughnuts or not wanting to get it again? Regardless, glad to hear. We may shake hands someday at a ZCON meet.

I've got that same mirror.

Bloats. That's perfect and funny.

Damn mechanics! What's the rocker pad look like?

This is all I could find on a Plymouth tank retro. Hybridz.org.

Hazmatt Denver, Colorado. I's off a few states.

I'm not losing it just a little slow.

I don't remember that. He would have bought the OE tank if needed, top of the line kinda guy. I'm going to find him...

With that old Jetson's phone you have take an extra battery and charger along for the testing. Maybe some flares and a blanket or two. You can keep warm with one and send smoke signals with the other.

I can't remember the member on here that did one hell of job on a white 280. He did car wraps for a living and cleared his and looked great. Houston Texas is where he is but I can't find any threads. He did such a great job and sold the car. We got mad at him.

I like them all too. I've got black on my 240 and natual bead blasted on the 280. The black looks good against all the aluminum of the carbs and intakes to my eyes plus it never gets dirty.

Yes! It does look good 90% of the time. Rock that baby until the tires fall off.

Looks it's down to the primer like my 280. You can wax it up and live with it or get it painted. $5,000 for a good paint job around here. There's the "shake and bake" Maaco painters. https://www.maaco.com/

I think it's original.

Now on the opposite side of lucky a s s me here's my 240 original paint after a good buff out.

I'm in the American Pickers camp. Leave it alone. Patina looks best to me unless it's a show car you've spent $$$ on. If not, sale it and let the new owner make those decisions. My $.02.

Went down and took a few pics for you to compare your's too. Hope it helps determine if it's OE paint?