siteunseen

It's the distributor you'll need to get right. So many threads on installing correctly. https://www.google.com/search?q=installing+distrbutor+classiczcars.com&rls=ig&source=hp&ei=BBm9YNbAC-eIggeL0J_QCA&iflsig=AINFCbYAAAAAYL0nFHXZ6Zx3XvGF89vN8D9oyTk1nKMX&oq=installing+distrbutor+classiczcars.com&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAw6BQgAEJECOgQILhBDOggIABCxAxCDAToICC4QxwEQowI6BQgAELEDOgsILhCxAxDHARCjAjoCCAA6BAgAEEM6CwguELEDEIMBEJECOggILhCxAxCDAToHCC4QsQMQQzoHCAAQsQMQQzoKCAAQsQMQyQMQQzoICAAQsQMQyQM6CAguEMcBEK8BOgoIABCxAxBGEPkBOgcIABBGEPkBOgYIABAWEB46CgghEAoQoAEQiwM6BAgAEA06BggAEA0QHjoHCCEQChCgAToHCCEQChCrAjoFCCEQoAFQ8RlYwI4CYJaZA2gAcAB4AIABvgKIAZ0ykgEJMjQuMzIuMC4xmAEAoAEBqgEHZ3dzLXdpergBAg&sclient=gws-wiz&ved=0ahUKEwjW0uC31oPxAhVnhOAKHQvoB4oQ4dUDCA0

Can American banks cash reparation checks from China? I need a sheet of plywood. "In addition, all nations should work together to present China for a bill of minimum USD 10 trillion to compensate for the damage they have caused and that is a very low number, the damage is far far greater. As a first step, all countries should collectively cancel any debt that they owe to China as a downpayment on reparations," he said at the convention.

Your vacuum advance module is at 4:00 o'clock and every Z I've seen has their's at 6:00 o'clock. I think your distributor was installed wrong, maybe the reason for the wires being all fouled up? People move wires around to get one to run when the distributor is off. Could be what the previous owner was trying to do. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/8.jpg

Shouldn't you have a rotor button? #1 mark on the cap Rotor button

When I was young my Dad rebuilt my '76 280. He was a Chevy man. Car wouldn't fire up and it drove him crazy. Finally asked a friend mechanic and as the firing order is the same Chevy's distributors turn clockwise. Ours turn counter clockwise. He came home, changed the wires around and it cranked right up. #1 plug wire isn't long enough to reach the firewall with my NGKs. Maybe they numbered themselves?

Some love for @sweatybettyfor starting this. It's the best way for me to understand/communicate with people now. "Heard it in a love song".

I've always thought it was to lessen a rough and shaky steering wheel, a shock absorber, plus a quicker way to remove the steering rod.

Have you read this? https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html

A couple of suggestions you may already know but they helped me over the years. Our motors are not straight up in the engine bay, slight tilt to the passenger's side. If you mark the center of the cam towers and use that as your up reference it'll be more precise. Also you can get two to come up at a time so that helps speed things up when you do them hot. They're spread out though so I started making a mark off list on a piece of a case box for something like beer. Anyhow write it out and place it under the passenger's wiper blade and X them off as you do them. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about. Cold setting on top and the hot is the bottom one. It may help since you say the clicking is better after your second adjustment. Good luck with it, that ticking sound drive's me nuts.

I think you should make it clear to the carpet supplier you have the early 1977 with the sloped up rear deck. After some time I am not positive all 1977s have that. Send an email or a phone call to be sure. Sorry for any confusion.

Yes, you have a '77 and that rear hatch carpet piece would be different versus a 1976 rear carpet. The '76 would be too short for the slope up.

I have a 9/76 build date and it's considered a 1977. Has the sloped up rear deck with a space saver spare tire, collapsed with the a can of air. N47 cylinder head stamp on top of an N42 block. VIN# 355,834

I can't wait on erectile dysfunction, where it's always 5 oclock.

https://www.google.com/search?q=350z+seats+classiczcars.com+&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&source=android-home&source=hp&ei=VJOuYLa8AonM_AbGmq5Y&oq=350z+seats+classiczcars.com+&gs_lcp=ChFtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1ocBADMgUIIRCgATIFCCEQoAEyBQghEKABMgUIIRCrAjIFCCEQqwI6AggpOgUIKRCrAjoECCkQCjoFCCkQoAE6BQgpEJMCOggIABDqAhCPAToCCAA6BQgAELEDOgUILhCxAzoICAAQsQMQgwE6CAguEMcBEK8BOggIABCxAxDJAzoFCAAQkgM6BQgAEMkDOgYIABAWEB46BwghEAoQoAFQghJYlGpgtXNoAXAAeACAAbIBiAHUEZIBBDMuMTWYAQCgAQGwAR4&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp

No color code sticker on the radiator support or a door jamb ID plate the only way I know of is to search the vin registry for a number close to yours. Thanks to @Carl Beck http://www.zhome.com/

Looking at the evap tank picture I'd say #919. http://www.zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html

I have the 6to1 headers and had to trim the heat shield around one of the primary tubes on my 280. I also had to grind a little off the bell housing where the collector barely rubbed on it. The 240 did not need any of that. You can use jack stands to hold up the 2.5 tube while you bolt it together. The S pipe right before the muffler is the hardest part to get tucked up the right way. Was for me. Good luck and check MSA for the correct orientation of the muffler. It's a hyper link in the description of the 2.5 exhaust.

Here's 2 for $67.45 each. https://www.ebay.com/itm/353191421255?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28

Well it was almost 7 years ago so sorry about that, time flies for me now, but my Nissan dealer down the street. $42 I bought all the parts but waited a few years to do the work.

Yeah it's fun after you realize what's not on their screen. I used to get funked up and call local parts stores and asked about a water pump for a '82 911. Keep them on the phone forever.

Better number 27116-e4400

Anything past '95? they don't know. I'm buying parts for a 240sx as long as they know. You have to just tell them the part number or they argue with you, mine do at least. It may be '93 when they changed over? I can't remember. Another thing just by looking at your original hoses is the heater valve. They go bad all the time and dump coolant on the passenger's floorboard. It's another pain in the butt to change out but sooner or later you'll have a problem. I did the whole thing a year or so ago. The valve is about $40 and you'll need another short hose with it. Sorry I don't have that part number handy but here's the valve.

Part numbers...

To be honest, it is a pain but I would do both hoses and the rubber gromments on the fire wall Start loosening at the bottom and let it drain. I don't think the contents of the radiator will come out but aftet seeing your photo you need to change the fluid. Shouldn't be rusty looking.