siteunseen

Me too!

Well you said it ran better all the way up so that explains the yellow part. I would make sure the nozzles are completely up. That flat bar Mark spoke of can get out of shape and keep them from reaching their height and lessening the fuel. Have you a way to meter the air flow, balance that? These are great and fairly cheap. Well after googling it there not so cheap anymore? https://www.amazon.com/Latest-Rage-5385730856-Carburetor-Airflow/dp/B00CMC57R0/ref=pd_aw_fbt_img_2/140-4982961-2615742?pd_rd_w=Xlzjj&pf_rd_p=76328f70-5fff-49b7-869a-94bfdaa768fc&pf_rd_r=JECHWPJ6RGT64TVVHVNZ&pd_rd_r=42368007-404a-49b9-87a3-cbbfc73c54b5&pd_rd_wg=n1J8w&pd_rd_i=B00CMC57R0&psc=1 I agree with Steve and Zed, a good tune 1st. When I got mine the best running ever I had my timing full advance at 17 at idle then the dial back set on 34. At 2,500 rpm it sits at 0 on my light. BUT! I have a ZX electronic distributor. Love the old car but the simplicity was increased with the newer ZX dizzy.

That and white with blue interior from all I've read. So I guess blue interior makes that true. @Bonzi Lon would know if he's still around. He had blue on blue that's in Saudia Arabia now and I'm positive he got PAID.

I'll mention this too. If you rebuilt them with the newer needle valves and adjusted the height like the DVD shows, upside down at 5/8", your floats are off and starving the carbs of fuel. There's a bunch on here about that and I'll help find the threads but 1st off what does yellow mean on colortune?

I had a problem on a Z I had once and couldn't figure it out for anything. Turns out the nozzles were not moving freely as a result of the previous owner using regular fuel hose instead of the more pliable "J" hose that they are supposed to have. If the chokes are disconnected you should be able to reach under and pull them down and they should pop back up on their own. Good luck.

I miss the direct phone conversation days. I'm selling Ben Moore paint and they want to email everything. I call and after 20 minute hold they can tell me what is available and not. The email snail takes 2 days at least.

I think at 52 it would be hard to get adopted but I'd be the best! Your living a good life @psdenno and I know it's your good decisions. You're a good friend and I appreciate all your experiences you share with me and the forum. Keep on trucking!

I know it's a car club but I'm a Southerner. When it gets cold we stay inside. This makes me smile. I made it out of an old stain glass wine stopper and a vase I bought at a yard sale. Inside down time is hard for me. I hope you others are not suffering "cabin fever". It's a tough problem for compulsive people like me. Bengals by 10.

These are the closest to mine from 1972 I've seen. They have 280 ones too. I don't like the empty block look around "240" some of the others sale. https://stripegarage.com/collections/datsun-240z-260z-280z The others... Stripegarage.com... Mine from '72...

Put a 240 bumper on there! Looks good to me.

Looks good! Like @Yarb said it has layers of body filler on the hatch which could be a negotiating factor in your favor but also a catastrophe with a shiny paint job. I don't think that's an original Nissan color? Definitely have a body shop look it over.

I've recently noticed these round holes on cars before my 1972 which has the storage bins. What are their purpose? Thanks for any response.

Tire inflation? Higher money doesn't go away in my experience except groceries and gasoline, which is very little and not timely at all. Katrina taught me that. Now covid is going to teach us all a new normal. 20 more years hopefully and I'm out.

Those look good to me but they could be higher doing the testing different. Good read...

https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/5644516

I used these on my 240. Then covered with liquid electrical tape. Turned out good, water proof too. Slides on the "nail head" terminals.

Looks like fuel sender connections.

My d21 jumped fire for 5 years? maybe. Ran like crap on acceleration then cleared up. It was tough pulling my boat but I cared more about the boat than the truck. My Dad, God bless him and his attitude, said try a new cap. $5 and him busting my balls for the next year is all it was.

I had those on my boat. Heavy duty crimp on battery terminals. They have some that have screw down instead of crimp.

I remember this one was for sale. Long gone now but some pics to look at. Good luck.

Yes the front cover has the water pump and the oil pump so there's a good place to mix the two. The water pump has some funky bolt lengths and if they aren't put back right they could crack the cover.

2nd nature to you Steve. You've helped so many people it's like tying shoe strings now.

Yes, that's what they are.

Looks like where fuel tank vent hoses come through to the evap tank. @Zed Head will know, he has a '76.

The AAR is a good suspect. It opens when cold to allow more air to pass, increasing the RPMs. When the warmer plate gets hot the opening inside the AAR will close, lowering the RPM. Just for the fun of it I would unplug the BCDD wire and see what it does. That thing causes fluctuating RPMs too. The butterfly in the throttle body could be gummed up and stick when it's cold allowing more air through raising the RPM. Then when it warms up the sticky goes away. You can clean that with an old toothbrush and some lacquer thinner. Here's a picture of the connection where you can unplug the BCDD and a thread that talks about function. Good luck. I hope you figure it out.