siteunseen

My '72 has ran on the right leg of M in TEMP since the day I bougt it. I thought that was hot. Rebuilt the motor and it still reads on the right side of M in TEMP. You have complained about this for as long as I can remember yet you are still driving this car. It wouldn't be running today if that gauge reading was a factor in your cars health.

I got my 5spd 280 up to around 130mph then the wipers started lifting off the windshield. I do have the Xenon front spoiler which makes a huge difference at speed. Without it the car was all over the place. It would do better but I didn't want to lose my wipers.

I've got Standard fj707 in mine. $19 each from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/BIGREAT-Fuel-Injector-Compatible-1981-1986/dp/B0FSQG62LD/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Yo-IT2cjubHGXEXqrWZHWYrbE1GEjNmMWIKZ8us5NVd-vjqcw7LKka9E9tv2xqXj6di5N0fxeW4U_c6e0BLw1tq0sX9s1sRjyhv0GZGJe9Tn7O3MKwnuW2zp_lsz9DzYORlVhZOHE_BXZchv9zs8weMt_AbFs-66gwcy5lQYlL-HGoax8ql44BzrB_w2Twsx5tyKaJ-NghnFyyUlRX1W_A.DXlGKU2QJwJqeZtUbXwIEbFKcrJtYYDeuf9NSDDF52I&dib_tag=se&keywords=fj707&qid=1781212465&s=automotive&sr=1-4

I sprayed them, soaked, with WD-40. Guess what the WD stands for? Water displacement.

I'm done with the bodies, the results vs $$ and time I'm happy with. Domes and float bowls are soaking now in heated solution. I'll have those done in a couple of hours. The lids have to have the ears drilled then I will clean them by hand. Need to read up on the ear drilling, can't break those I only have 2 rear lids.

Thirty minute soak then spinner tip in pressure washer. I'm happy. Can't wait until tomorrow when I can do it right. The test worked!

I'm going to cook them with 4 to 1 water and Simple Green HD purple, submerged completely at 100F or there about. Spray the linkage and springs with my electric pressure washer afterwards. Then spray them down with carb cleaner, then WD-40 and polish them with 320 wet/dry sandpaper. Once I get them together I'll use some Eagle? I think polish I have left over from the last time. If it hasn't hardened up. I have 2 brand new Grose jets from Massachusetts that Phillip gave me, hopefully I can make the floats usable and I'll have to figure out drilling the ears to make them "short" like @madkaw . I used two rear carb float lids on my good pair that are in the car now making them like the early version 4 screw carbs. Now I have two long ear float lids. I made the A.I generated conversation again. Shouldn't I be getting paid N.I.L type money for this? 1. Ear Length Differences Early Setup (1970-1971): Both the front and rear float bowl lids featured equal-length "short" ears, utilizing a short needle valve. Later Setup (1972+): The front carb was updated to have long ears to accommodate a longer needle valve (approximately 27mm), while the rear remained short. Community Modification: Enthusiasts frequently note that "long ear" lids can be finicky. Members like siteunseen have solved this by using two "short ear" lids, reverting the 1972 setup back to an early 4-screw/short-ear style.

That's what I call "stuck in the mud" the more you try/spin your tires, waste your time, the deeper you get stuck in the mud.

I've got an old deep fryer with a basket that hangs on the rim to let the grease drip off. I'm going to do a small job of cleaning and then rebuilding a set of SUs I have had for years. After stripping them down what would be best to clean them, straight into the water/Simple Green HD solution at about 100F or using the basket to steam clean them without actually getting in the solution? Soaking in the solution hasn't done as well as I had read so I want to introduce some heat without buying an ultrasonic steamer. This is a one time deal to use up a lot of bits and pieces I have accumulated over the years. Thanks for any advice. Cliff

He's like alot of folks that bought from ztherapy. The SU video that I got shows upside down BUT that was with Grose jets that would hold the float. These new needle valves will only work right side up, no weight on them at all.

Yes! Beatiful land. I'll live in that barn and be a full time Z mechanic. I'm also pretty good with anything else mechanical or at least I can figure it out with the Google and occasionally youtube.

I swear on my dogs life, nobody believes me, a good valve adjustment made my 240 crank right up where it was turning over and over before. Just throwing that out there, something to think about.

Is the valves closing where you have it set now? That's the only way to know. Pictures are useless.

Stick a red straw off a WD-40 spray can down in that overflowing vent bung. Try to get it bouncing up and down that way you know if the float is stuck. It could be that simple.

Sounds like a sticky throttle blade to me? Try adjusting the bcdd by turning the nut on bottom clockwise. Its got a funky clip covering the nut that just pops off.

March 27, 2021 I finally found a picture of the hose that has to plugged when deleting the EGR and warming plate, thermal switch or something like that. It's the yellow circle in my picture and from what I remember it's ported vacuum, before the butterfly. Anyhow just an FYI thing I said I'd do so here it is.

I'd guess 8 o'clock but with a good flashlight you should see the geared looking adjuster. Looks like 4 oclock on here but cameras shoot backwards all the time. Maybe this will help https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58287-drum-brake-adjuster-77-280/

Mine get got locked up all the time because I don't drive it much. Never skidded the tire though so maybe you're on point trying to figure out the issue. Mine was hard to get out of the garage, a lot of high revving and riding my clutch. Loud, very loud. I think I helped that by not pulling the e-brake on each time I park. Hard habbit to break after driving manuals most of my life but I eventually retrained my noggin to leave it just in gear on mostly flat areas.

Safety Not Guaranteed, '77 280Z 2+2. https://www.imcdb.org/v539305.html I'd forgotten about this quirky movie I watched recently. The 280Z's is one of the main characters car and it is seen a lot throughout.

Something I thought about is the Cold Start Valve, small injector type thing that shoots some fuel on start up. Is there a way to disconnect for his Smog test without getting called out for it? Maybe unplug it but appear to be plugged up? The reason I say this is it's a potential "rich fuel/air" reading for the test if it isn't working right. I know nothing about smog test other than what you guys write about on here. So there's that. I found this from Andrew at MSA. The cols start valve is located right on top of the standard 280z throttle body in the middle of the housing. It's held in by 2 bolts, has a fuel line attached to it and a 2 prong electrical connector. It is essentially an extra fuel injector that adds extra fuel to the intake system of the fuel to help it run while cold, so it get's to operating temperature quicker. It is controlled by the Thermo Time switch in the Thermostat housing and relies on the Water temp sensor and switch in the thermostat housing to be operating properly and accurately as well.

Since you are going for smog test I'd really concentrate on the different coolant temp sensors that calculate the air/fuel ratio. They are in the thermostat housing. There's the thermotine sensor and a coolant sensor you could remove, very carefully-they are precious little things with their old plastic connectors, and clean the brass on them as well as the threads. Don't use teflon tape on those threads, it effects the grounding I've read. You'll be better off draining the antifreeze before you pull them but you probably want to put new in anyway. The 4 wires that connect them also shown as "bullet connectors" should be really clean too. These will make one run rich with low readings when they are "dirty" or corroded. If you don't have one, an auto parts store might lend one out, but air leaks are another thing that will cause the fuel mixture to be off so checking all the old rubber hoses for cracks is a big help with a vacuum gauge. The accordion rubber connecting the AFM to the throttle body is prone to cracks when people remove and reinstall them. If you get one off clean the throttle blade and the actual body or area where it closes with a toothbrush and I use lacquer thinner on aluminum. The blade gets gummy after all these years and won't seal off like it should letting more air get through. Your motor needs to be sealed up tight after the AFM. Unmeasured Air: Any crack or loose clamp between the MAF sensor and the intake manifold will introduce unmetered "unmeasured air" into the system. This confuses the ECU, resulting in a lean air-fuel mixture, rough idling, and engine hesitation. I'm not sure if you have the whole atlanticz tech tips so here it is just in case. Electrical and EFI and Fuel are two of the best. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/

I did have mine "skimmed" at my favorite machine shop. It was too shiny and I think he said because of heat? Any way he looked at the rivets and said he could do it as they weren't flush with the plate.

I got a Tilton/Tifton? with a car I bought way back when. It weighs around 10lbs. Put it on my 2.4 when I rebuilt the motor and boy oh boy do I love it. Revs like a motorcycle, quick up and down. With exhaust I have it sounds like a motorcycle too. I'd recommend everybody switch, right now.

Here's a fairly quick task that helps a lot. Cleaning the electrical connections makes them run, idle much better. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

Nice, congratulations on your purchase. I like the automatic hadn't been driven to hard, totally agree. Get some covers for the fusible link block. They're cheap on ebay, https://zcardepot.com/products/fusible-link-cover-oem-260z-280z-74-78?_pos=1&_sid=dafc32314&_ss=r