jpc3006-1

A followup after installing the Beck/Arnley Mazda boot listed above on my '73 240Z. The large end of the boot fits the steering rack housing perfectly but it is somewhat difficult to get it over the inner tie rod as it requires a fair amount of persuading. However, the small end is a different story. The ID of the boot is slightly smaller than the OD of the threaded section of the inner tie rod and the rubber is not very pliable. After greasing the inside of the small end and the threads on the inner tie rod I was able to get the boot on the tie rod with maybe 1/8" of the threads exposed. At that point I was able to use the jam nut to push the boot over the threaded section of the inner tie rod by turning the nut. I then removed the jam nut and used an open end wrench to push the end over the flat and into the groove on the tie rod. Warming the small end would probably have helped it go on easier. The good news is that once it is on it fits well. I am going to do the passenger side boot tomorrow and am expecting it to go faster. John

Chickenman, Thank you for the timely post. I noticed this morning that the drivers side boot on my steering rack was split near the large end. I ordered two of the Beck/Arnley "Miata" boots per your recommendation. I do have one question though, you commented that "Small end stretches easily over the tie rod with a light coat of silicone grease." Do you really mean the tie rod proper or just the jam nut on the inner tie rod? Thanks, John

Update: stock (OEM) bushings arrived and installed during yesterday's thunderstorms, drove it today and now it feels like I got a new transmission.

FYI, I ordered the stock bushings and am awaiting their delivery. They served me well for the past 53 years with only one replacement required before now so I really can't complain. Eurodat, here are my responses to your very good comments above: You are correct. The aftermarket shift knob is 4 grams heavier (54 grams) than the stock knob (50 grams). The problem only arose when the ambient temperature was below 40 degrees F (4.44 C). I switched back to the stock knob and the noise was gone. It is surprising that such a small difference matters but it must. I replaced the engine and transmission mounts with new stock mounts in 2018 when I rebuilt the motor so I think they are still OK. I have had no noise or vibration issues since changing the knob back to stock. I checked the entire driveline when I rebuilt the motor and it was OK then. I agree, that is probably just as bad as resting your foot on the clutch pedal when not shifting. The only time I ever rested my hand on the shifter was when it was vibrating and then only to verify what was going on. Thank you for your input, John

Siteunseen and EuroDat, Thank you for your responses. I did a more thorough search through the archives and found several more threads regarding the shifter bushings and am now leaning toward going with the OEM plastic bushings. I read that the brass bushings can transmit vibration and noise into the cabin and I already had an issue with noise when I swapped out the stock shifter knob for an aftermarket knob a few years ago. Also, EuroDat you make a good point about the bushings being the sacrificial part. So considering that the bushings which were in there lasted a good many years and I only drive the Z maybe 500 miles a year nowadays, the stock bushings are probably the way to go. John

This morning I took the Z (1973 240) out for a Sunday drive and when shifting from reverse in the driveway the shifter "banged" as it went into neutral. Seemed strange because the car was stopped. I then cautiously drove around the neighborhood and noticed a lot of slop in the shifter but otherwise everything seemed fine. Anyways, back home I took the console out and removed the shifter to find that the driver side shifter pin bushing had disintegrated, the bushing on the passenger side of the pin was still intact. The bushing in there were Nissan OEM plastic bushing that I installed when I rebuilt the transmission quite a few years ago. My question is for those who have replaced the plastic bushings with brass bushings, what has been your experience. I have read that it improve shifter feel but does it create noise or vibrations? Also, I see that both MSA and ZCar Depot offer brass replacements, your experience with bushings from either of these vendors would be appreciated. thanks, John

Yes, the terminal on the ballast resistor with the higher voltage is the ignition side. I would move your red Pertronix wire from the coil + side to that terminal, that is how I have it hooked up and that's what Pertronix shows in their diagram. You measured 10V and that seems to be on the low side but may be OK if the engine is not running and the alternator not charging. When I installed the Pertronix on my car I cleaned all of the electrical connections on the resistor and coil. After 50+ years there may be some dirt or corrosion on the terminals/connectors. Also, you probably know, but do not leave the ignition in the "ON" position very long with the engine not running as it can overheat and damage the Pertronix module.

Senna, Regarding your Pertronix installation I noticed in the first picture above it appears that you have the ballast resistor in the circuit. If this is true you should move the positive lead for the Pertronix module to the ignition (12 vdc) side of the ballast resistor. I you have bypassed the ballast resistor then your connections to the + and - sides of the coil are correct. I've attached the Pertronix installation guide for your information as it explains why I am making this comment. JPC Pertronix Installation .pdf