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BreakOutAnotherThousand

I did this cheap upgrade and am happy with the results in both my cars. 10 years or so and still hold firm and tight, no slope which I prefer. https://web.archive.org/web/20160304002731/http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/shifterbushing/index.html Let me add to this. I don't daily drive these cars and once it's in gear I do not hold the shifter. My Dad broke me of that at an early age. A bunch of keys hanging on the ignition switch would send him into a fit. I miss that old man.

Sand the ridges of the cross with super fine paper and clear coat. That'll give you some shine to match the bumpers while still having that matte aluminum look. Those look great! Kind of like this...

I'm trying to learn. What does this stand for/mean? Thank you, I'm not ignorant just slow. How does Iki switch on some light fit together?

I turned my '72 3 screw carbs into earlier 4 screw by using two short eared lids, rears I believe. It's confusing trying to explain so don't read too much into it. These two post helped me the most.

They/we/me call them banjo bolt filters. If I remember right the ztherapy SU video says not to use them because of what you are going through. They didn't come with the rebuild kit I bought.

Is that when you started having problems or were your problems the start for these changes? Which came first, the problems or the cam and new ignition? Why did you change cams and who did the work? The Porsche mechanic? Why the new ignition and who did that work? There's no rhyme or reason for the work you paid the "trial by error mechanics". I think you are doing trial by error, lack of research and not using the information that's been provided to you.

Don't forget the build sheet from California Datsun. @Yarb needs to know all this before he can help you overseas.

See if it'll go up a steep incline. Are there any mountains in the Carolinas? Mine ran out the bowls going up Cheaha Mountain that's when I knew the levels weren't high enough. FYI, a 2.5 gallon jug fits perfect in front of the radiator on the passenger's side.

Really like this one...

Who's going to open the engine? The Camaro expert hiding in the bushes?

Or electric fans coming on?

You can delete topics within 24 hours I think? Look for the 3 dots, upper right hand corner and then click HIDE or DELETE not sure which one.

I think some gauges are off a little, I've read many owners that say their needle is more to the right, as in hot when they really aren't. Here's mine sitting in the garage without air flow other than what the fan pulls through the radiator. Thermostat is open, car idling and the temp gauge is on the right leg of the M in the word TEMP on the inside gauge. 1972 240Z with a Nissan 180F thermostat.

It has warming plate,bcdd,tps,throttle body,egr assembly, lots of nissan high pressure fuel hose clamps. All those components I mentioned are assumed bad. It sat in a junkyard for 100 years.

I'll get those 3 out unless you want the whole manifold? I can get a box.

No luck, yet. I spent 30 minutes out there. Found the OE Bosch fuel pump those injectors SHOULD be with but no luck. I've got another memory of them being with my heat shrink kit that could not find. I'll look more in the morning. I can send the other 3 tomorrow but those are on an N47 intake that was on a '79 2+2 motor and transmission deal. It had a wide 5 spd I wanted for my 240.

No, those are ZX. Let me find my '77 injectors. They're in a coffee can, but OE light green. I'll do it in the morning, it's much too hot for me.

Good news. I've got 3 light green still in the manifold. Then the front 3 are all brown? Let me know if you want them. I call pull tomorrow morning. The rest of today will be spent in front of this $825 window unit.

Let me look for that specific number but I have some old injectors. They're the light green originals, some off a '77 Z and others still in the manifold from a ZX motor I bought for the transmission. You pay shipping and you can have them. I'll be able to tell you in couple of hours.

When I first got on this forum I made a fuel rail and it turned out great. The info is mixed throughout this thread, most helpful was the spacing for the bungs from @Willoughby Z https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/41136-make-a-fuel-rail/page/2/#comments I'm pretty sure it was Blue, 240260280 that made one out of the OE rail but I can't find it @Yarb I'm slipping. He took the old one and used the pieces he needed, soldering them together to make a very nice fuel rail for practically nothing. I'll keep looking though so it won't bother me tonight when I try and go to sleep.

I have never seen that before and I've used Chrome for...as long as it's been available? Are you sure it was from Google? Maybe just an attempt to get info from you.

I can say for sure that those fit the holes. The middle is a little thinner than you'd expect, I guess it's easier to cut out if you run hose through them?

I remembered the number but not the "T" part and just googled it, sorry for the bum steer amazon thing. I hope you figure it out. I found the old thread from 2012 where I found out about FJ707s. Mine came from rockauto.com for $169 with clamps and 2 rubber insulators just like this guys pictures. I remember they were made in South Carolina. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/42603-fuel-injectors-fj3-or-fj707t/?&_rid=23570#findComment-385022