Patcon

I have adjusted several r&p racks over the years. You do have to be careful of overtightening. A slow speed test drive will tell you if it's too tight. It is also true center rack slop is normally visible under the hood. The wheel and steering shaft move but the rack ends don't...

Yes, getting past paint is a huge hurdle. It's taken me about 11 years to get here 😮

I'll try to start blocking this weekend. We'll see how it blocks out. If it blocks out ok, it could be yellow in 3 weeks or so probably

🤣O my!!! That's a "Rust eaze" commercial!

The rack has an adjustment that takes play out of the rack and pinion. You have to be careful though, overtightening can cause problems when off center because the middle section tends to wear more than the edges of lock.

This epoxy is a sandable primer so I wasn't too worried about the fisheyes. I mostly filled them in on subsequent passes but no I didn't shoot a test panel. The car will be bright yellow when done

Thanks, trying to get motivated

Stacked some high build right before supper. Hopefully it will block out pretty close without needing too much more work

So I finally got the car sanded down as far as I was willing to go. I taped it all up over the last week or so and reset the booth. Then shot some SPI white epoxy over that. It's a little different than what I am familiar with. It will fish eye if you lay the first coat on too heavy. Being white it can be hard to get full hiding coverage. I may stack some high build tomorrow. I've got 7 days to coat. We'll see...

I always like to source pistons before machine work for this very reason...

Pretty rusty! I'm not sure it's a true "Scarab"...

Acid for the win. I wonder if it causes any issues with the aluminum pistons?

Pistons normally come with wrist pins either press in or fully floating. If they're press in you should have the machine shop install the rods. They have a special oven to heat the rod so the pin presses on easily

Haven't seen him around in a long time...

Im with Jonbill, open the diff up for a look

Yes, that is normally true of this type of wiring diagram

That makes for a valuable piece of glass!!

Ebay ad link? Who supplied the harness tabs?

Do you know what they call the guy who graduates last in his medical class? Doctor... 😉 No offense to conedoger 🙂

So we had to rework the end of the oil galleys. The holes we had drilled and tapped weren't big enough for a 3/8 plug. So I found a 9/16 bit; it called for 27/64 and we drilled them again and tapped them. You have to drill them and tap them pretty deep so the plug will go in flush. You can see one of the feed holes in the threading. the plug doesn't actually go in that far. We measured for clearance.

So I received the vintage TRW bearings yesterday. We may end up using these. We'll see

Lookong forward to this! I have 2 L28ET's here in the shop

Bradenton, thats Cleetus territory 😎

I probably wouldn't go 20 weight unless my oil pressure seemed really low or I had knocking

Many times popping is excess fuel lighting off inside the hot exhaust system. Poor ignition or too much full. Plug gap in the new plugs could be an issue depending on your particular ignition system