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bacarl

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About bacarl

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    Farmington, MI

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    1973 240Z - almost original

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  1. Holy crap. You're absolutely right. I didn't realize they grounded through the case, although now that I know that I don't know how else they'd ground, since they only have one power wire. I guess the sockets just popped out of the backs of the gauges one by one (to Zed Head's point about flaky sockets) until only the tach was left to light up. I put the blinkers and one of the speedo bulbs back in and lo and behold they work fine. Learn something every day. I do have a multimeter and I was testing the sockets, but since I didn't know how the ground worked I wasn't seeing any voltage. On
  2. Hey guys, sorry to post on a topic that has probably been discussed, I'm still in the process of searching for info. I haven't found anything relevant yet so I'm posting up in the meantime to see if anyone has any insight. Problem: gauges do not light up. Namely the speedo and the triple gauges (fuel etc). Everything else lights up including the tach, map light, radio/console, etc. Except, while trying to fix this issue, my interior turn signals quit working too. The exterior amber lights still flash, but the two small indicator bulbs inside the tach do not. I've put eyes on the blinker
  3. Old thread but it's a good one... I doubt Manny will read this three years later but if anyone can comment I'd appreciate it. After you removed the push rod was the seal still in good shape and reusable? Is there any place to source a new seal if necessary? I didn't see anything from MSA or from a generic Google search. Any tips in general regarding removing the push rod or is it pretty self explanatory once I get in there? Thanks guys.
  4. Removing the flat tops was by far the trickiest part of the project. In comparison, installing the SUs was cake. ZTherapy's kit is very comprehensive and includes everything from the correct carb insulators with longer studs, to the right length throttle linkage. And of course all the awesome refinished bits and plated hardware that everyone is used to seeing. I have to give ZTherapy credit and an extra thank you here because they actually sent me an old '72-ish air cleaner from their stash for free. My original square-mouthed air cleaner would not have been compatible with the round-mouthed S
  5. I did very little with the Z over the winter. I got married last year and between that, work, travel, and old fashioned laziness, I didn't spend as much time with the car as the previous winter with my suspension rebuild. Instead, I've been taking advantage of this summer's pleasant temps (you know: when we're supposed to be out driving our cars) to work on my next project, which has been to swap my flat top carburetors to SUs. I debated for a long time about whether I wanted to do this or not. The engine was totally stock, and a '73 equipped with flat tops, air pump, and all the original fa
  6. I just separated these a few days ago, but mine came apart without too much fuss. As others have stated that nut is on a male fitting that threads into the manifold. They're all normal right-handed threads. FWIW the fittings between the manifolds are M16x1.5 and the fittings on the outside of the manifolds are 1/4" BSPT (British Standard Pipe Tapered - close to NPT but not quite, and not to be confused with British Standard Pipe Parallel). Use a flare nut wrench and keep hitting it with PB Blaster and heat. You can use a cheater bar on your wrench but just be careful with them because they
  7. Thanks siteunseen. I'm about to thoroughly derail this old thread but since the OP's issue got resolved, here we go! I just took my heat shields over to a plater and he thought it was zinc as well. He doesn't do zinc plating, he prefers "electroless nickel", but the color/luster is close enough for my purposes. He charges $75 per small order to strip, sandblast and plate which seems very reasonable to me for two heat shields. However, I bet I could add a few other parts and get them done for "free". I know most of the 240's plated parts are zinc/yellow; can anybody think of some silver part
  8. Reviving this thread since there is some good info on the shields in here... Can anybody tell me the original finish on the heat shield, or have a photo of a clean stock shield? I know a lot of guys VHT-paint them which is what I was planning to do but as I'm wire-brushing mine to clean it up, I'm seeing a layer of what looks like shiny silver distorted/melted metal from the heat of the wire brush; I'm wondering if that's a zinc galvanization layer.
  9. Pretty darn good explanations by Captain Obvious. One additional comment on an "unhealthy strut" is that if the gas has leaked out (determined by "slow or won't rise after being compressed"), it's possible that oil has leaked out as well. When people talk about a shock being "blown" they're usually (whether they realize it or not) referring to that shaft seal you mentioned, Captain, being worn out and allowing gas and/or oil to leak out. If the damper has lost oil then it is likely to have less damping ability. Matt, I wanted to chime in on your observation. I think Zedyone mentioned somet
  10. Pics in posts #1 and #17 aren't working for me either
  11. A machine shop could probably help with cleaning up that outer race, and they could definitely repair the threads; I'm assuming you don't have a monster die you could use on those threads yourself.
  12. You can also use MyAutoEvents.com to search for local events. They're called autocross events, as gogriz mentioned, or Solo racing. In my area, SCCA isn't the only group/club that organizes events so the myautoevents site is helpful for more comprehensive searches. Their site is down right now but IIRC you'd go to Advanced search, pick autocross from a pulldown menu, and search for a given distance from your city/zip code. Have fun!! Autocross is an awesome way to play with your car - lots of fun, low risk, and relatively inexpensive entry fees.
  13. Anyone have experience or insight on how these compare to Classic Datsun's leather or vinyl covers?
  14. I've found this to be a helpful tool when comparing tires sizes: http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp You can compare different sizes side by side and there's a calculator that will give info like effect on your speedometer, or whether the tire moves closer to/farther from the suspension or fenders. Remember the first number is the width of the tire in mm, the second number (after the slash) is the sidewall height as a percentage of the width (215 * 60% = 129mm sidewall; 235 * 60% = 141mm sidewall). Also, if you want a wider tire for the purpose of increasing grip, you might also be ab
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