Patcon

Nope, a 4 barrel isn't going to help. It's a gearing issue, simple physics

This is true, and in some places like Montana they have effectively no speed limit. However, if you look at the member map, most of the member cars reside in areas that have substantially lower speed limits. Jalex (who is in Central America) is evidently routinely running a 100 mph in his car evidently for extended periods of time. I suspect if 100 is the norm, then 120 is not out of the question. I don't know about Utah but much above 80mph where I live is going to get you tagged (our highest speed limit is 70 mph). Even in Texas they have very high speed limits (80 mph on secondary roads) but many times they will ticket you for 5 mph over (got one about 2 years ago), where as they tend to give 10 mph here. Big difference in rpm from 85 mph to 120 mph... Another point is many people set their cars up for acceleration, light to light so to speak. Most are not set up for high speed cruising. That being said I have run a z for hours above 5k rpms with a four speed with no obvious ill effects

Interesting!

I was a little surprised too but after I thought about it. The adhesive must have a pretty hot solvent to evaporate so quickly and it would make sense they want it to bite into the paint some. We used it recently on Cody's 510 which had base clear on it as well. Although it was only a week or so old. It gets harder with time...

What is the condition of the transmission mount? Is it the correct mount for transmission that is in the car? Are either of the front motor mounts broken?

It is probably a gearing issue overall. Depending on which 5 speed you have, your gearing could be a little high, which will make your launch a little slower. If you go to a lower gearing in the rear end then your cruising rpm's at 100mph is going to be much higher. There's no free lunch here. After all, you are only working with 150 or so HP if you're lucky. It's not going to launch like a modern EFI car that makes 200 or more HP and could have as many a 8 tranny gears. For us in the states, law enforcement tends to lower the speed range we build for, so we don't have to worry so much about higher rpm's. We can run lower rear end gearing and not have to worry about high speed rpm so much

As for using the epoxy in lieu of high build, I wouldn't!! The epoxy just gets too hard and doesn't sand well. In fact it gets so hard if you leave it for more than a few days it has to be abraded before top coating. Some people use the epoxy over filler to reseal the filler and metal down, and it sticks really well to almost anything. Then they run high fill over that. The problem that would cause me is my total build thickness tends to be on the high side any way, and adding another coat or two of epoxy would just make it thicker overall. It is possible to get too much build thickness which can cause failure problems

Very nice! The exhaust looks rowdy!! What is it?

That's good progress! 75% on the floor sounds about right, at least for me. I am not sure the pros do a lot better at that. It's just what it takes To help crisp'n the lines on the rear quarter and other panels , like down the center of the hood. Run a piece of 2" blue tape along the crease line with one edge of the tape nice and straight right on the line. Sand right up to the tape, maybe a hair over it. Cross hatching from both directions. Then move the tape or run a new piece along the other side of the line and repeat. It will help you define a nice sharp line. Many times mine become too sharp and I knock them down with a quick swipe of 320 by hand. When you start running primer, buy some good powder guide coat. You will be surprised how much it will show you. When you sand you want your transitions to be very smooth. No defined area from filler to primer to metal. You will find that if the line is very defined when you prime you will be able to see a map of your filler work. I like the edges of my filler or primer to sand out really far and get translucent where they feather off. Guide coat will help you find these areas before you color and high build should be able to deal with most of those issues. I probably put almost as much primer on the floor as I do filler. So buy an easy sanding primer and good paper!!!

I used the same thing. I don't like using it. It works good but it can get messy and stringy. I did not know they made an adhesive remover... @Mike W does the adhesive remover help remove the fresh adhesive when you get it where you don't want it. I found the fresh adhesive softened the paint and would take the paint with it even using just paint thinner as a cleaning solvent I figured on my next door weather strip I would use some blue tape to try to keep the mess underneath the weather strip.

Pretty pieces. Why such a large offset on the hat?

bent like post #7 here or #58 here I know some people heat them and bend them instead of cut and weld

I think most people heat a shifter rod and bend it to align with the hole. Most don't want to cut the tunnel because it creates other problems as well as being hard to repair. Search for some images or threads on Google

More pics!!!

I would use the rear suspension. Probably one of the lower control arms to try to minimize the impact on the rear valence. I would be careful if you have to pull very hard or you will tear up the body or the fuel tank.

I would try to find a replacement cowl. You could patch this one but it will be hard to weld this up with out warping the panel.

Some people use Redcoat . POR15 makes a tank liner. Eastwood does. I just recently used a Caswell epoxy product. If you follow the directions closely sealing a tank is a DIY project

That holes going to get a good bit bigger when you get back to good metal, but still better than might be expected all things considered

I plan on reinstalling the factory pads if possible. that is after I have removed the rust, neutralized and epoxy primered the underneath side.

Some people have used CLR in the past. I am confidant that it is a weak acid too which is what makes it effective

I wonder what CLR would do to the valve?

Good excuse to drive the car though

@Mike That is above my paygrade, maybe Mike will chime in...

Ebay for rebuildables but if you source them from Ztherapy they will be correct right out of the box. Might want to find some cores though

It's a thin foam. I believe it is to prevent rattles. Also it is always better to upload the pictures to the site. Mike will preserve them for posterity. We have had more than one thread go bad when the hosting site links were broken