Patcon

That is the part that can really get on my nerves. you just have to accept that's what it takes to get it right.

I really believe these cars are much harder to make perfect without substantial filler than many cars of a similar era. The metal is much thinner than American cars of the era. So on an heavy thick bodied muscle car you can get the metal close and then use a body file to remove some of the unevenness. This make the metal thinner in some spots but reduces the need for filler. Add to that, the fact that the original stampings were not perfect. Which means blocking an original door flat is going to require some filler since the original door was never blocked. It was stamped, primed and painted. Modern fillers work really well and if they are applied in layers they tolerate movement pretty well. You have done good prep work, so it should hold up for a long time. I suspect like on many of the panels on my car, there appears to be a lot of filler but in reality it is a very thin layer spread over a wide area. Keep up the good work! i wish I was making this kind of progress!

Are you sure they're rivets? I thought they were self tapping screws for temporary purposes

Sold on Copart today. Last I looked it was $1200 a couple of days ago

So you have removed the wedge bolt that passes through the rod?

Good pictures! I have come to conclude the paint was probably glossy from the factory and became satin looking over time

Possibly both... I am more familiar with the earlier cars. I believe on them, the PCV is connected to the valve cover

I believe there is a flame arrestor inside that hose

What is the possibility of a neutral switch input for the auto ECU?

Hey ya'll, watch dis!

What is the cleaning method for large parts like this? Sanded to what grit?

Tyler has all three of the ads. He wants 3k for a rusted out 260z??? I don't think so!!!

My cheap flaring tool has a two step process for making double flairs. The first is a flat disc with a pin that bulges the end of the line. The second is a cone that flairs the line against the clamp body to complete the flair. You can make the bulges by just using the first step and not over doing it

I don't know if the 280zx tach triggers the same way the older cars do. A little research on the 280zx wiring diagram should help with that

Be careful about disconnecting an alternator while the engine is running. You can damage components on some vehicles this way

280zx? Year?

I guess it depends on who you heard that from... The distributor you have in there is running a lot of Zs just fine, and 510's for that matter. It is missing the vacuum advance by the looks of it. I wouldn't change it for now. Work on the other issues, like the INOP tachometer. Personally I wouldn't make changes to the car unless there is an obvious problem. Once it is 100% sorted, then you can tinker if you want and you will be able to readily see the results of the changes

A quick question, what is the point of going to the MSD box? The distributor is already electronic and the spark should be more than hot enough for most applications

The bulge can be added with a good flairing tool. The first step die for a hand flairer will bulge the line

I have used the line material from Fedhill and they have been great. I have the Eastwood flairing tool and can flair an entire cars worth of lines in an hour or 2. We're not that far apart geographically...

The indention is there so it will meet the subframe rail. There is a step in there on the subframe that aligns with that indention. There is a row of spot welds through the bottom of the indention

Rotary compressor Lots of vacuum tubing, it looks like and wouldn't install on a LH drive car based on the way it's drawn...

It is a very nice looking car. All the zinc hardware looks great

He reconized it for the opportunity it was and made great money!!!

What exactly are you trying to authenticate? Its definitely a 280zx... ?