Patcon

If you build the engine for boost now, it will be a dog normally aspirated. You will need to keep your compression low to accept boost later. A 10:1 compression NA motor with a lighter flywheel can bring just as many grins

A normally aspirated motor is more forgiving when it comes to getting the tune right. Turbos don't tolerate lean-ness very well. A nice torquey motor in an S30 chassis is a lot of fun. These chassis are really only suitable for so much power with out a lot of work and extra metal

I suspect the Japanese ones are better steel than most of the ones on the market currently but I could be wrong. You are referring to these The ones I have appear to hard chrome on the spherical end with grease slots. I would think they should be very wear resistant. I am not sure how the modern ones are manufactured. As long as you can adjust them and remove any slop and they move freely, I would reuse them

I will have a look Maybe @Zed Head can help me out,. He is very good at finding things in the FSM

What is Miguel's shop?

The book recommended earlier is an excellent place to start before you tear into it

Nope, its a 2.8 liter motor but you would need to break it down to know what you really need. Might need pistons, might not. Might need standard rings, might not

@motorman7 Rich did you see this yet?

The upper car, I assume is a concept. It has very Maserati-esque lines

Not likely to happen. We will be fortunate if it has 6 cylinders

I believe there is a test in the FSM that might help clarrify your direction

Motorman7 uses a shop not far from you that does beautiful work and knows Zs but he would have to chime in on what to expect for costs

Quarters would definitely make the repairs easier and cleaner

Did you find the steering rack pictures?

That's pretty extensive. What is your budget? There is a shop not too far from you that does good work but be prepared for what the metal work and paint could cost! @motorman7

There are some more pictures in my build thread too if CO is missing some

He's based in Ottawa

@gt250

You could always try to hot wire the car to eliminate the switch as a problem

Most of the fuel rails don't hold pressure forever like a modern car does. If the car is not hot then some fuel loss won't be a huge deal. Just cover it with a rag when you loosen the clamp. then put the rag outside to evaporate off.

I love that split window beetle! Also you have to love the low barrier between the cars and the patrons. One of the beautiful things about the Japanese culture. In the US, people today lack the etiquette to respect that low barrier. Kids would be inside those banging on the horn... Thanks for posting

You are making great progress So to John, the base is uncatalyzed and the clear is catalyzed. Most times, when I shoot base, I don't catalyze it. I am shooting a solvent based basecoat. When I'm done I can pour the excess back into the can. So no waste. The only downsides are, the base needs to be top coated soon, preferably 24 hours and uncatalyzed base really can't be scuffed or sanded

What was better? Thicker is good as long as your catalyst isn't too slow

So what did you do different to get it to lay down?

@Mike