Patcon
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Everything posted by Patcon
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The upper car, I assume is a concept. It has very Maserati-esque lines -
Not likely to happen. We will be fortunate if it has 6 cylinders
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I believe there is a test in the FSM that might help clarrify your direction
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Motorman7 uses a shop not far from you that does beautiful work and knows Zs but he would have to chime in on what to expect for costs
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Quarters would definitely make the repairs easier and cleaner
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Did you find the steering rack pictures?
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That's pretty extensive. What is your budget? There is a shop not too far from you that does good work but be prepared for what the metal work and paint could cost! @motorman7
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There are some more pictures in my build thread too if CO is missing some
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He's based in Ottawa
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You could always try to hot wire the car to eliminate the switch as a problem
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Most of the fuel rails don't hold pressure forever like a modern car does. If the car is not hot then some fuel loss won't be a huge deal. Just cover it with a rag when you loosen the clamp. then put the rag outside to evaporate off.
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I love that split window beetle! Also you have to love the low barrier between the cars and the patrons. One of the beautiful things about the Japanese culture. In the US, people today lack the etiquette to respect that low barrier. Kids would be inside those banging on the horn... Thanks for posting
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You are making great progress So to John, the base is uncatalyzed and the clear is catalyzed. Most times, when I shoot base, I don't catalyze it. I am shooting a solvent based basecoat. When I'm done I can pour the excess back into the can. So no waste. The only downsides are, the base needs to be top coated soon, preferably 24 hours and uncatalyzed base really can't be scuffed or sanded
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A fully charged battery is 12.6v, so you need to get it charged up. It also drops a lot when cranking, how old is the battery. Probably not a direct cause but EFI and ignition systems don't like low voltage. Things get wonky when the voltage drops too much
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Why do you think you need to? Last I heard your car was running properly
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Painter was buffing today. He said the roof was a challenge. Said he wished his Chevelle looked this good
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Bend the tab down slightly. That will close the valve later and allow more fluid to enter
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Yeah, that's a good way to get hurt
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So I cut again finishes and all ground down I had some surface rust appear in the rear frame rail. I tried to use some Eastwood liquid rust remover but it seemed to make it worse. So I brought the panels outside and used the 90# pressure pot to quickly clean them off 150#s of Black diamond and here it is Brushed on some epoxy primer on the frame and the rear valance. I think I am ready to put it back together. It's still not quite the way I want it but I have gotten to the point where I don't really care. I figure I won't be able to see it from the drivers seat. So I am going to keep pushing forward. I really want to finish color before it gets too cold
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So ten month later, an update I have been working on other projects, one of them being Cody's new truck So I started by doing a pulling slit this to reshape the curve and had to rework this bracket above the exhaust outlet Added in some metal to reshape the curve Stitched it up and voilà!! It's wrong The curve under the tail light trims is inconsistent, too big in the middle
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I don't know either. The fan does ok because the shop isn't very big with 8' ceilings but everything in the shop has a layer of dirt on it but the paint has almost no trash. He does fog the shop up pretty good when he really gets going. I think there is a lesson in here somewhere. I am not quite sure what it is yet. Maybe instead of a booth, I should just drape the rest of my shop to keep it clean, wet the floor and spray away?
