Patcon

Thanks for that. Good to see you around

Zup summed that up for me succinctly! Most valve covers will need some restoration. I wouldn't want to bolt a less than pristine valve cover onto one of Motormans cars or Zups or any number of other cars on this site. So how do judges expect that to happen? Maybe some one could tag Fred Buoni to weigh in on this? I would be surprised if the valve covers came out of the mold exactly as they appear NOS

So how can they ding you for a bead blasted finish? If the beads are fine enough, it would look very similar to that!

The other thing is, I bet they go cheap

I can usually get pages translated. It's the searching on the German Ebay that is stumping me

I know but none of it's in English! I need to get some Boolean search lessons from the Maestro!

I thought the ACV's seemed really high unless there were some 6 cylinder cars there. I assume it was a shop or collector and they all ended up at Copart. I would think they would be fairly solid chassis because they are in Bakersfield. Might make good autocross cars. Only need the basics that way. I was bored and browsing the older cars, up to 88, on Copart. Sometimes there is something interesting, but it's almost never close to me. ?

Kats that's good to hear. It is a very large storm...

How did you find that????

@kats Kats, I hope you and your family as well as your cars are out of the way and stay safe ahead of the approaching typhoon Charles

There are about 40 - 914's at Copart in bakersfield, CA. I know there are a couple of guys here who have them or have had them. Posted for anyones curiosity @conedodger @psdenno

Just remember even fresh Ztherapy carbs need some tuning to be right. they come pre adjusted but sometimes they need to be tinkered with.

If it's not too rusty, that's a bargain!

Contact Z Therapy. They may have one

Yes, the disc can fall out. Normally you can shake the booster enough to get it back out of the booster. But if your booster is rusty inside from brake fluid, the diaphragm inside is split or will be shortly

Somebody should reply with an answer on the diagnosis but direct wiring a fuel pump is not a good idea. At the very least, I would add an inertial kill switch in case of accident. Sitting inside a Molotov cocktail never sounds like fun!

Also you can rotate your fan pattern down to a small round dot and turn down the paint volume. If you dont reduce the volume alot you will have sags and runs. Keep a piece of cardboard close by for testing spray patterns and volume. That makes it easier to shoot down inside the holes to get it further inside the structure. Before I did any of that I used Eastwoods internal frame spray cans with the long tubes to help coat the insides of the structure on the hood and many other places on the car.

I have had wheels straighten and don't know of any kind of paperwork being signed for liability reasons

Plug the line to the brake booster and see what happens. I suspect an issue with the booster

Why dont you try this: Jack up the car on one side, so you can spin one of the front tires. First check top to bottom and side to side for bearing looseness. Then lay a block beside the tire so it touches the sidewall and slowly spin the tire. This will show you if the wheel spins true as it currently sits on the car. Report your findings...

That sounds like a leak somewhere. Could be a pick up problem but my first suspect would be all the connections or a cracked hose or filter

The hoses could be bad under the dash. The heater valve could be leaking. Core would be my last suspect

How does a New Mexico car get that rusty? Normally they are much cleaner than that

Keep an eye on this too. I had to repair the hatch on the car I am currently working on

I agree, you need to get it clean to see how much needs to be replaced. Some body has been working on the tension rod mount with a hammer!