Patcon

Many of us would opt for computer controlled cars if funds weren't an issue. There are some really nice things about computer controlled cars. The late 70s and early 80s cars require a logical mechanical mind to sort out, but it can be done. They ran great when new, so it can be done. Many of the cars have been neglected and hacked on by previous owners but this forum sorts out a hand full or more of these kinds of cars and associated problems every year. I suspect you have a bunch of vacuum leaks to start with. It's just my opinion, and worth what you paid for it, but a 4 barrel is not a good choice for these engines. If I was adamant about going carburated, I would bolt on a set of SU's. They are simple and very effective. They also have a more even fuel mixture over the 6 cylinders, that the 4 barrel won't and you don't need a box full of jets to get the mixture right

Looks like ST sway bars. Do you like them?

I don't believe there is any computer controlled timing on that car. I might be wrong, but if the computer is involved, it is only for basic power. The ignition is still pretty simple on the 83 cars

It is a great rebuild tool. It will help with measuring TDC and any piston protrusion from the block

Why not run the 280 Dizzy and match box. That gives the hotter spark with no points

"A well known problem with Weber manifolds for Datsun Zs is that the exhaust ports are interspersed with the inlets. Therefore a one-piece inlet flange is not possible. To avoid the whole manifold distorting, which causes the inlet ports to misalign with the cylinder head, the Mangoletsi manifold has carefully designed webbing and ribs to give extra strength and rigidity " The low end torque design might be nice but many of the improvements are the kind of things racers are looking for. The little bit of bore offset I'm sure cost a fraction of power but most people will never know it. Now if you are measuring lap times you might see the difference...

It is possible to adjust the hood hinges sometimes. It's hit or miss but there is some adjustability

One of the vendors should have them. Zeddsaver might as well as some of the others

Did they line bore the block? If they did, I would ask which way the caps were installed when they did it. If the block wasn't line bored then install them with the arrows forward

$483 pounds isn't very cheap

I wonder if they shipped certain amounts of parts to certain regions but since so many Canadian Zs have succumbed to rust. Maybe you didn't use the supply as fast as those South of the border

Wow! Don't tempt me!! I would love to have you take up space here for a while! I will start browsing though. Maybe I should just buy you a plane ticket for a month or so and you can come here and push Lily along...

Somebody got a nice car for $17,100! Anyone here buy it? I thought about it at the last moment, but my wife might kill me!

Seems like some of the hardbody differential parts might be interchangeable https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/1995-nissan-hardbody_pickup_d21u/power_train/rear_final_drive.html?Diagram=380_A002 also this looked like an excellent source for internal parts https://www.nengun.com/nismo/lsd-repair-parts

The spinning looks proper for a crank with sticky prelube. they don't really "free spin". I think it would be good to have the clearance on the thrust bearing. How hard are you prying? You can pry pretty hard since both surfaces are steel. It's a little easier to check end play if you have a dial indicator and a magnetic base. Measure off the crank snout or flywheel boss.

Part numbers?

Looks good

Would you like me to help you spend your money? What are you looking for and how far away can it be?

Many of the rubber bushings are available new from Nissan. You can find the parts numbers here http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978 Then go to courtesy nissans parts page and check the availability and pricing

She looks great! Time to start shopping again!

That sounds like that would be a great place to wonder around a little!

Not any mechanic I would use. Like Wheee said, I don't do burnouts in my car why would I let my mechanic do it.

You're doing good! You picked 2 of the hardest areas on a z for a stud gun. The end of the quarter is paper thin, which is why the studs tore out and the area behind the bumper has an interal frame rail that can provide an amazing amount of stubbornness to dents. The quarter turned out nice

"Track rats" don't car if it's harsh; only how it turns For me I went with new rubber because I don't plan on thrashing the car...much You could look in the "waking the sleeping beast" thread and see if something stands out to you

Work quick! You can use a rag or some paper towels to wick the oil out of the dampers with out having to disassemble the carbs