Zed Head

It's just a plain old purchase order isn't it, before the internet. 1977.

I thought it was a tow rope coiled up underneath. Looks like it might have tweaked the license plate. The picture of the engine bay shows a stock radiator. Pretty good paint job. They masked off the engine bay instead of just overspraying.

Is that the AC radiator showing underneath? Probably saved your lower fascia from tow rope damage. 25 year old tires are probably bad no matter how much tread is left, be careful. They blow up. These motors all tick.

What happens at the bleed screw? Does the pedal go to the floor when you have a front bleed screw open? Or does it stay high like pressure is building? Describe what's happening, in detail. Probably a clue in there. Also, where you started. Why did you decide to rebuild the MC?

Last thought - a bent wheel side flange would measure out as a bent axle, relative to the wheel flange. The bearing seating surface would be off-perpendicular to the axle bearing journals, except for two exact postilions. Seems like the most likely cause. Somebody slid in to a curb in the past maybe.

Being certain before knowing just makes a person less likely to see what's there. Cognitive bias. No offense. If you consider it mechanistically, like what, exactly, is touching and binding, then a race misalignment seems like a good possibility. The bearings have play in them from the start, properly installed, you can lift your wheel up and down a noticeable amount when the back end is lifted. And push-pull it in and out. Seems like there'd have to be quite a bend in the shaft to get a bend-bind. A short distance piece, giving zero end play, and any type of misalignment will be magnified. Might be interesting to measure end play while you're torquing. If it goes to zero before you get it fully torqued, that's a clue. Zero end play would require perfect race alignment for the balls to ride in. It must be ball-bind that's the issue. Ouch. They need room all the way around the track. You might find varying end play as you rotate the flange. It's an odd problem. I've been surprised at how loose the rear bearings are, in general. But that's how most rear wheel bearings are, even in live (solid) axles. I had an old 55 Chevy truck that wore out a bearing completely, spitting the balls out, riding race to race. You could lift the rear wheel up about 2 inches when it was on the jack. And it just kept going until I sold it to a guy who was going to restore it. I was a didn't-care teenager.

I'm leaning towards a seating issue. Four surfaces, any one of which could cause a problem. The inner races and distance piece form a solid tube of steel connecting the flanges together. Might even be possible to take the bad axle and bearing set and use a pipe and a press to be sure that the inner race is fully seated. Pound it down on the wheel flange surface. Then reinstall and see if torquing still causes the problem. Don't really the use of the nut as the final press of bearing installation. It's not "right". Aesthetically displeasing. I haven't done one but if I did I'd try to knock each race in to place separately if I could figure out a way.

They rust inside the bore of the housing. The threads could be fine but the shaft will be stuck.

The bearing on the wheel side is staying on when you do the swaps right,press fit on the axle journal? So you have either the axle or the bearing as the problem, probably. There's much discussion about damaging races, "brinelling", by pulling on the outer race,if the inner race is pressed on. But during installation, you're pushing backward on the outer race as you tighten the nut and they seem to survive Seems like you could separate the bearing from the axle and test both independently. If you had lots of free time...

Don't forget the other two seating surfaces, besides the distance piece. One on the axle and one on the companion flange. A piece of grit or a metal shaving could have a big impact. Edit - the distortion might not happen until the nut is torqued and the inner race gets cocked.

When my ignition module was going bad it would "over spark", causing the tachometer to read high and the engine to run rich. A possibility. Maybe you have the opposite problem, with a weak ECU trigger pulse. Along the same lines as the tachometer connection issue. Pin 1 "expects" a certain type of "pulse". I don't really know how it works, if it's flyback from the coil discharge or if it's a high and low voltage thing. Do you have all of your wires bundled together? Maybe you have some crosstalk on those signals, or the Pin 1 pulse is getting attenuated. Try splitting them up and checking all connections. Make sure that the ECU has a good ground, maybe the Pin 1 pulse needs that to start the cycle. I know little about electronics.

Not sure how exactly it would explain your problem but if I recall correctly, power is supplied in banks of 2 and 4 and grounded in banks of 3. Although the diagram numbers imply 4 and 2 for grounding also, at least by the wire numbers. Can't remember for sure, CO knows. If the problem is electrical it might follow the plugs. Maybe switch a "fine" one for a rich one and see if it stays or follows. I used the funky looking factory resistor, with the two bullet connectors. I think it's 2.4 kOhms.

There are calculators out there. http://blog.cantonracingproducts.com/blog/how_to_estimate_your_engines_fuel_flow

I did something somewhat weird when I had my EFI system hooked up on my garage engine. I connected the blue tach wire through the resistor and to ground. Because in the past I had found that my car would not start with the tach disconnected. I had even had my car not start while I was out tooling around one day when the resistor fell out after I had messed with it. I saw the resistor on my passenger floor board, put it back in and the engine started. Since then, with a GM HEI module in place of the stock ignition module, I've found that it will start with the resistor out. But back when everything was stock t would not. So maybe the stock system is finely tuned to all of the other parts. My garage engine with standalone EFI like yours fired right up as long as I had the idle screw cranked open. Needs that air when it's cold. Anyway, worth a shot, easy to do. Just find that blue coil (-) wire branch and run it through the resistor to ground.

I flipped your picture to match. The Kia Sportage seals work very well. They even have a 90 degree bend for the corner.

Manufacturing companies are always trying to cut costs. It's in their DNA, it's actually part of the deal of being a public company, maximizing shareholder value. Sometimes they go too far. You never know. https://www.nytimes.com/topic/company/timken-company https://www.google.com/search?biw=1496&bih=723&tbm=fin&ei=yRXCXK_sHtnN0PEPhaKo4A0&q=NYSE%3A+TKR+&oq=NYSE%3A+TKR+&gs_l=finance-immersive.3..81i8k1.3013.3013.0.3293.1.1.0.0.0.0.55.55.1.1.0....0...1c.1.64.finance-immersive..0.1.55....0.DgBSm6n_rFc#scso=_zRXCXOziLoK-0PEPw6WEuA82:0

You're the guy with the V8 car over on Hybridz, right? No biggy, just saw the name. Is the tank still there? The system should be leak-free everywhere, in all of the lines. In operation, sometimes it sees slight pressure, sometimes it sees slight vacuum. There's a releive vlave in the gas cap and a check valve in the vent line to the charcoal canister. Wouldn't be a surprise if your charcoal canister is gone also.

Have you given it some wide open time? Get the fuel flowing through those old crusty injectors, with the pintles banging open and shut. Probably help clean up the plugs too.

True. A lathe might be the way to do it. Set it up so that one journal is centered and the other should be too. Maybe a flat surface with the axle journals on it and a bright light under the contact points, or some very fine feeler gauges. But the dilemma here is the axles could be fine, but the seating of the inner race is not. Just looking for confirmation. Since he has new bearings coming, he might as well pull the ones he has and reseat them. Maybe swap bearings on the axles in question and see if the problem follows the axle or the bearing, or neither. Maybe one of the bearings has a bent ball retainer, for example. Once the two races get aligned the retainer locks up? Or the inner race itself is defective. Could be cracked. Just guessing. A bearing swap might tell something.

Just remember that the period of oscillation is independent of the mass of the pendulum. Ha ha ha... Wikipedia. I don't know any of this. And don't feel bad, Galileo had problems too. Maybe you should pray. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equations_of_motion "Galileo did not fully grasp the third law of motion, the law of the equality of action and reaction, though he corrected some errors of Aristotle. With Stevin and others Galileo also wrote on statics. He formulated the principle of the parallelogram of forces, but he did not fully recognize its scope. Galileo also was interested by the laws of the pendulum, his first observations of which were as a young man. In 1583, while he was praying in the cathedral at Pisa, his attention was arrested by the motion of the great lamp lighted and left swinging, referencing his own pulse for time keeping. To him the period appeared the same, even after the motion had greatly diminished, discovering the isochronism of the pendulum. More careful experiments carried out by him later, and described in his Discourses, revealed the period of oscillation varies with the square root of length but is independent of the mass the pendulum."

Do you have any way to measure runout? Should be there. Sounds like you removed the shaft and the installed bearing. Could be a damaged bearing. There's also tolerancing. If T3's bores are on the small side and you got a "big" bearing race, maybe it's still a fit issue. Sounds like you'll get it fixed, just not clear, exactly, what the problem is.

Sometimes the CZCC site will take a pasted link and sometimes it won't. It's not consistent. Looks like it didn't this time. Have to click the little chain link, then paste, then save. Here it is after a bunch of extra effort - https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-oil-filter-stud-15213w040a

If you Google the part number you'll probably find a few sellers. Your local Nissan dealer might get it for you with free shipping.

Are you on lick washers or torque specs? http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/brake/front-brake Torque specs are at the end of the Brake chapter. Service Data and Specifications. Forgot to say, CZCC has the FSM's on the site now. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/

Pretty sure you need #14. Looks like they're still out there. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/cylinder-block/14 https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-oil-filter-stud-15213w040a