Zed Head

If you assume that that is the purpose then you need to be sure it's filled to the top. If it's halfway, you''ll still rust-bind the top of the tube. Maybe KYB uses better paint that doesn't break down and let the shock body rust. Are the people at KYB ignorant? A thin coat of anti-seize might serve the same purpose. The instructions should be more thorough. Let's see what KONI has to say. @KONI Lee What is the purpose of the "fluid"? What is the best fluid for the purpose?

Check the magnet under the stator ring. It's probably broken. The timing could be stuck in the advanced position. Either way though, you can't get repair parts. You'll need a new distributor.

They might have a reason. They just didn't explain it in the instructions. Here's KYB's - https://www.kyb.com/knowledge-center/shock-tech-for-pros/installation-tips/strut-cartridge-installation/

@KONI Lee should know. I'd say it doesn't matter. Maybe he knows why the instructions show 50 mL of mystery fluid poured from a coffee pot.

Actually you bring up a point that often gets overlooked - is this a new problem from out of nowhere, in a car that ran great? Or was something adjusted and now it doesn't work right?

Many replacement strut manufacturers recommend no oil added. It serves no real purpose and just makes things messy. Not sure why they have that in their instructions. Probably better off to smear the body with anti-seize. Here's a similar Koni-in-a-tube setup with instructions from Koni, no oil added. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=11&v=PXSnNZt3NiI

Another question might be "which gland nut is being used?" Do the Koni's come with a Koni gland nut? The KYB's come with their own nut. Maybe KYB gland nuts don't work on Koni's.

Did you fix those lugs? Just curious. That's quite a cost spread on your suspension options. Lowering definitely helps with roll in the corners. But new struts/inserts alone should get rid of the bouncy feeling. You're blending your solutions together. It could still be bouncy after lowering.

How did you diagnose "no spark"? When you "give gas" to an EFI car all you're doing is lowering intake manifold vacuum, and taking the throttle off of the idle enrichment setting. Shouldn't have anything to do with spark though. You might be getting your symptoms mixed up. Will it start with starting fluid? It sounds little bit like you have weak spark. There are other causes for that besides the parts you changed. Have you looked under the distributor cap lately? The ZX distributors aren't very durable, they're known to wear out. Bad bushings, broken magnets.

This part seems most relevant. KYB has been around a long time and probably has it right. 10 mm is about 3/8 inch. You could have a new gland nut made. The gap is just to make sure that nut is clamping the insert and hasn't bottomed out on the strut housing. Make a new gland nut that has longer threads. If you want to make it work. But it seems like the Konis might have a problem. Wonder what other people are seeing.

When I was messing with mine I blocked the AAR port and just opened up the idle screw for starting then slowly closed it up as the engine got warm. I had a leaky radiator but no fan. Took a while to get steamy.

No, it always failed over the years, or required tricks like lowering the fuel pressure to well below the spec. That's how I passed the first time. If I had everything in spec, and tried to use the FIC AFM it would fail. I like the way it ran on the engine, very smooth operation and good performance, one reason I never complained or tried to return it. So I would put it back on after emissions, then try to pass emissions again two years later and every time I've had to remove it and reinstall an older one. No damage, it's like new. It just runs richer. I notice that the spring action of the vane is different also, with the Nissan unit next to the FIC unit. I'll send FIC a message if get a chance.

About 1:40 I was getting worried that something weird was about to happen... You might edit that out. Looks like you could move some water with that thing. 150 HP pump.

Looks like a good one. Is the cig lighter switched though? I seem to recall older cars where it was always powered. It's right next to the horn and dome light which are always powered. No biggy, you can add your own switch.

How many amps does it pull? Might be best to just run a new wire to the battery for a relay, then tap in to a wire that functions when you want it to to control the relay. Always hot, or key at Acc. or Run.

Those two cars are very very different. I'd assume you'll make the second one look like the first one? The first one seems to have title problems. Bring-a-Trailer is popular. https://bringatrailer.com/

It was working...

That is an odd statement. It, in essence, removes the fusible link, since a fusible link is a smaller diameter wire.

The slidey thing might be the mechanical part that turns it off. But it can keep the internal switch from staying on, if I recall right. I've hosed mine down with contact cleaner like site showed and it fixed it. Both the dimmer and the signals. They get gummed up.

If you have one turn signal it seems likely that you just have a dirty contact on the other one. Can't remember exactly what they look like but they slide and wear and get grimy over time as the wheel is turned. I think the contact point might be on the back of the wheel. I have a 78 unit in the garage I can pull out and look at. If you have one you should be able to get the other to work, I think.

It is a straight bolt-in , plug-in swap. When it's done you'll have a 60 amp alternator, internally regulated. No need to worry about modifying wires and other things, your electrical system will pull the same amount of current. You won't smoke any wires with the upgrade to 60 amps. The other mods are good to have, but nothing extra is necessary for the MSA upgrade.

Analog...?

Does the P90 have carb manifold mounting holes? You'll need the right gasket, not the L24 gasket, since you have injector cutouts in the head. The P90 exhaust ports are rectangular so your L24 manifold might work. Not sure if the rectangles are smaller on the smaller engine's exhaust manifold though. You'll want to measure. People who know say that a more free-flowing exhaust system is the first best thing you can do to release some power. Those small L24 exhaust pipes left hanging in your picture might need some changing. I think that the rest of the parts, externally, are all swappable. Looks like some fun.

Ahh, the old stuck injectors. I remember that. As horrible as the engines sound when they have dead cylinders I don't think it really hurts them much at low RPM. Since you have a cooling system now maybe you could let it run while you tap the injectors, swap injectors plugs, run some electrical checks, squirt the occasional blast of starter fluid in, etc. The injectors might be slow to close, I think that the solenoid is stronger than the closing spring. Maybe you have some rich cylinders. Hot injectors will probably loosen up more than cold. Have you made sure that the computer and injectors have a good ground back to the battery? Since you have a funky wiring setup. One of those commonly overlooked things.

What's the details on the engine? How much work have you done on it?