zKars

Pretty hard not to have some valve damage with what you mentioned having happened. Definitely sucks. The devil is in the details ain't it? Lock tight and proper torque specs... Good thing we like workin' on 'em as much as driving 'em, right??

There is a thread on here (several actually) that go into great detail on this subject, with complete parts lists. A little searching will go a long way. Look for "Auto manual swap" especially one from user ARNE. The only trickey bits I remember are remembering to remove the spacer on the end of the crank, putting a pilot bushing in the end of the crank, and finding the bits you don't have, like a clutch pedal, flywheel and hydraulic line.

The FSM has a very detailed description of what to remove in what order to dis-assemble the 2nd gen 4 speed. (look at any FSM for 72 or later). Page TM-3 in the 73 manual is what I'm looking at. There is a "main drive bearing snap ring" as seen from inside the bell housing that's retaining the front bearing that may be the big thing you forgot. They also mention the back up switch, C-ring and pin, and return spring plug and what's found inside on the rear extension that have to come out to get the back half off. THere is pictures of everything. xenons30.com has the FSM's on line.

oranngetang, I have parts for you down in Calgary. PM sent.

Z curves! I actually have a pair! Just showed up in a box of parts from a z friend. Let me know if younstill need em, PM or z240@shaw.ca and I'll get them on the way. Jim

Ports didn't change to round shape until the N47 head in '77. N42 heads where "square" (if you call those things square) on 75/76, so that header will work for you just fine. Go for it man quick before someone else jumps on this now that you've let the cat (little exhaust joke there. hee hee....) out of the bag !

Something is not adding up in my brain here. If the Calipers are the same for all S30, but I'm sure the hubs are unique and have a different offset between 240/280, and now after a quick autozone/oriellys parts search, they seem to indicate the rotors are in fact the same for 240/280 (my bad), then the calipers must mount in different position relative to the spindle to account for the difference. Help an old confused brain out here... Could'a sworn I have a stack of two different height rotors to go with the scallop/round hubs on the parts pile....

The 280 rotors are different as well to compensate for the changed in hub face position. No effect on wheelbase. Its just how the hub/Rotor locates the rotor face in the caliper. No magic. The common references for this relate to using the Toyota calipers on S30 chassis. They only "fit" on a 240 if you use the 280 hubs.

The offsets are different between 240 and 280 hubs. To help visually ID them, the 240 hubs have scallops out of the circumference while 280 hubs are nice and round. Definitiely NOT the same.

Mark Jim with the Calgary club here. Drop me a line z240@shaw.ca and I'll see what we can do for replacement bits. That dang fusible link should have popped sooner that that. Sucks. Maybe, just maybe, you only cooked the main white/red 10 gauge supply line that runs all over, a little smoke from that kind of short looks like a lot, it may not be that bad. Dig in and see. Jim

The inline resistor on the 75-78 280z's between the trigger terminal on the 3 wire tach and the (-) side of the coil is a 2200 ohm resistor (2.2K). 1/2 watt size should be plenty. I am using that resistor with my E12-80 module and that same tach and it works fine.

Great stuff! Did you get the red or the new Blue variety? Mike recently pointed out that we have a "Product Review" function on this forum that I think we should be using more: This would be a great article to add to that venue: Find it here http://www.classiczcars.com/reviews/ PS: Mike, I can't find a link on any of the main page menus to the "reviews" page, might be worth adding. I had to search it out. If its easy to find, people will actually use it!

You are correct, they are threaded. They are 5mm x 0.8mm threads. They are not likely in very good shape if sheet metal screws were use, I'de chase them with a tap first and cross my fingers. I think they are trapped nuts if I'm not mistaken, may technically be replaceable if you "had" to... If not, drill and tap out to 6mmx 1.00 threads as a first go, or fill with an epoxy putty and re-drill and tap with the correct 5mmx0.8mm.

Norm is @ zeddsaver.com

My vote is to use an epoxy putty. There are several two part kneadable puttys out there. This has the advantange of actually making a permanent seal for the hole and with careful application will leave a very attractive and small repair.

I've had some mighty fine moose in my time, but this is not one of those times. Some things are just not worth it. Dan, go for it!

Bit late now, but for the next person who finds this thread, I've had excellent succes with a product called "B-Quiet Ultimate" from http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html. Easy to apply, forgiving during install, and very conformative. The cost is also much easier to bear.... And it works. They have a full line of sound control products. I have used their stuff on several projects now, including my own. Only down side is getting it off when you later find some rust repair that needs to be done. Don't ask how I know....

Pete Brock at BRE sells a nice car cover as well. Listed at $169 http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=B&Category_Code=car_covers

Not really a lot of "not rust" is what you mean I think... When previously painted interior machine screw heads are rusty (map light), its been in a very moist enviroment for a long time. Nearly every picture shows signs of the monster. Still, it has potential.

I'de be interested in picking it up. It would fit the spirit of the re-fresh I'm going through perfectly. I like the look of your interior, if your stock wheel is in excellent shape it would go much better with it. Can you measure the diameter of the wheel and length of the mounting hub for us please? Contact me here via private message (PM) or to my email z240@shaw.ca and we'll take it from there. Thanks!

You have either a loose connection somewhere in the ignition wiring to and from the ignition module, at or in the distributor, or from the power supply wiring that feeds it all. More likely, you have a bad ignition module internally. Pretty tough to diagnose an intermittent problem like this. Could even be the tach itself. If its shorting its sensor line to ground internally, it would kill the ignition. So step one, disconnect the tach from the circuit by unplugging the in-line resistor in the harness below the glovebox against the fire wall (blue tape around a black rubber nubben about the size of your thumb), do without the tach for a bit and see if the problem persists. Put a want to buy add in here for a module. Lost of folks have replaced there stuff with later dizzy's from ZX's and other aftermarket solutions. I have one, but I'm not likely the closest person to ya!

I'll send you hatch latch striker. Display it on your desk, slightly off center of course...

Aha! success! 72OJ wins the prize. Even though I had to lead you-all by the nose to get there... Now I have complete faith in the Nissan engineers of the time, but for the life of me, wouldn't you want thing in the middle to hold the hatch evenly? Looking at the way the release button touches the bar of the latch mech, it kinda has to be like it is, but jeez! I know there is a common issue with the left side of the hatch on some Z's not wanting to sit all the way down flush with the body, (mine is severe!), maybe this is a contributing factor?

ok, this isn't working like I'de hoped. Sorry Guy, I think the result of moving the striker is pretty normal. Alright, if YOU had to design a hatch latch thing, and you could only use one, and the hatch was symetrical in every way, where would you put it?