zKars

MSA has them. Bit pricey. The center pin is 1/8 in diameter, hobby stores have plastic stock. I'm a fan of replacing them once and for all with insert nuts and 8-32 machine screws. Mcmaster Carr has black ones with big heads. Cuts down on squeeks and never lose those rotten pins again!

One important detail is the cleanliness and smoothness of the surfaces where the o-ring seats, and the oring itself. Do all you can to clean everything and inspect the o-ring for damage. No power tools, just fingers and sandpaper or steel wool. Next is the pressure applied by the ring, and the centering of the ring as you tighten it. Is the ring rusty or corroded?

Those clips are not very springy, unlike true C-clips. More like a stiff band that is just bent into place. Once you get them off, use pliers to bend them back into place in their slots. I actually replaced mine with a some common generic size of eternal c-clip. Now as to getting them off, put the arm in a vise, and use two smallish flat blade screw drivers to push the opposing tips of the clip apart. Or one flat blade of "just" the right width that you can use it as a wedge between the two tips.

The trick is getting enough heat, but not too much.... Hair dryers are just barely enough, propane torch is too much (and there's that open flame thing...) , but I find paint stripper heat guns (hair dryers for bald men!) to be the best. Hot enough to burn me, but not hot enough to melt the hose unless you leave it on one spot for a LONG time...

55415-E4100 or E4101 or E4102 or N4301 is the last update in the fiche. Now get back to work! (me too...)

With all those RT mounts now in use, there must be one heck of a pile of used diff straps out there somewhere. I know I have quite a collection now. If only I could think of a new use for them... Hmmm. Miniature summer tank treads, cat toys you toss that they love to chase (for really tough, big cats, or cats you don't like...), Bracelets for gorillas, backyard swing seats for really small kids, Help me out here people, surely there must be more ideas out there!!!

This is a pain in the you know what on some struts. I've had to weld a fat 1x1 steel rectangular bar to gland nut and use 36 inches + of cheater bar to get one set to break free. This even after several days of penetrant soaking and heat treatment. I just hate heating shocks though, definite explosion risk there.... Sounds like you're having fun! I'm waiting for the post about your spindle pin removal!

Bigger hammer! Do NOT damage the end of the stub axle or the threads whatever you do. Which makes it hard to use a bigger hammer of course. I thread the nut back on reversed, to leave the flanged end out, put it on all the way (all threads engaged), then use a chunk of wood between the hammer (2 lb) and the stub end. Check that the nut still threads off easy with each blow to check for damage. Otherwise it will cost you at LEAST a 18 x 1.5mm tap... The "official" technique is to use a slide hammer to pull it out from the wheel flange side. You'll need a press to remove and replace the outer bearing from the stub once its out. One of my favorite jobs! Hope you have a 250 ft-lb torque wrench too!

Ok, I'll help. I describe the mounting differences The mounting to the car varies by year. 240 seats have studs that mount through holes in the floor supports. You attach with nuts. 280 seat all use bolts through the track frames that go into trapped nuts in the floor supports. 77-78 seats have different rear mount locations, they have vertical bolts, earlier 280 rear frames have angled tabs at the rear, and the bolts go in at ~15deg angle to horizontal. As far as 260 seat tracks go, I not sure if the early ones mount like 240 and later like 280, or if they are all 75-76 280 like. All seat bottoms from all years bolt to all the sliders. Its just getting the right sliders to bolt to your floor supports that counts. Hope that helps.

And still no one answers the poor man's question. There are two holes each side on the bottom of the rad support, about even with the inner fenders left and right, where the hooks mount.

no glue needed, just press it on. Squeeze the pinch a bit if you don't like how it stays in place. Make sure it fits the corners tightly as you put it on, not after its all on.

They are being made custom now by Brian (azcarbum) on hybrid. This is his site. http://www.zccjdm.com

Very common problem with "certain" cams. Send your stock Nissan cam to Delta Cam in Washington state for a regrind. The do a basic regrind for $75 bucks and rocker arm resurface for $3.75 each. I sent them two cams and 36 rockers and they did them for $3/ rocker and $55 per cam! Fantastic fast service, turned them around in about 4 days. Highly recommended. search for oil additives and recommendations and cam wear problems. Been discussed many times.

You didn't perchance plug the new harness into the turn signal/marker light 3-prong connector rather than the head light connector on one side did you? There should be no inter play with the turn signals! Either that or you have a very strange wiring issue with your switch..

That type of break is easily fixed with with a torch and the HTS 2000 welding rod. http://www.aluminumrepair.com. They are kinda pricy, but priceless for fixes like this. I have used them and love them! Think custom manifold creation...., repair that broken bolt hole in the corner on the front cover or head, that kind of thing is now childs play with HTS 2000 rods...

Assuming you are converting to a 4/5 speed from an auto, you need to place a want to buy add here for that pedal and any other bits you need for the swap. There is an excellent post here that details every little detail of the swap. Do a little searching... Adapting a zx pedal would indeed be a fabrication feat..

Blue is correct. And its not missing a nut. The threads are in the steering coupler that its currently screwed into. No nut needed.

Before you give up, reduce the spacer thickness to whatever the minimum is that you need and try them for a while. I'm sure you can do with a least half their current thickness without affecting their thermal properties much. You could even shave some off of the head side of the manifold to gain some more room.

Here I was hoping for a story about a real brake explosion! Still, useful info. Thanks...

The windshield washer pump is not mounted to the fender. It is attached to the bottom of the white plastic washer reservoir. Sounds like you have an aftermarket pump mounted in a convenient spot... You should likely amend your hunt to look for a new washer tank and stock pump if you want to retain originality.

There is a product called Plasti-dip (plastidip.com) that seems like a solution to recreate these tabs. Its marketed as a multi- purpose coating and looks great for this application. You just dip the part, dry, dip again, etc until the desired thickness is attained.

Nice work. Brake line flare kits are a crap shoot at best. I love the stuff from fedhillusa.com. their brake line is soft enough to form the S curve on the front brakes almost by hand and their flare machine is incredible. I have that junction block if you need one. Let me know.

Measure it with a chunk of 14-16 gauge wire snaked along its length. its 3/16 brake line with 10 x1.00 mm threaded brake line nuts. Any decent car parts shop has premade lines, just need one thats long enough and maybe a tubing bender.

While we at the "update the thread" trend, I have a far better solution if you are going to modify the stock linkage rather go cable (which is the best overall process for throttle improvement). if you are going to be welding anyway, just cut the tube that goes over the pin on the car in half, rotate it 45 deg and weld it back together. Use a drill bit the right size in the centre to align it while you weld it. Much simpler then cutting the arm off and using washers and such to reposition it with rotation. And the repair is nearly invisible. JMTC. Jim