zKars

510 good, 210 not the same.

I hardly wait to get home and test my spare T/C rods for straightness! What if they are all "bent" exactly the same amount and in the same orientation? I'm willing to bet you can jack up on these all day long and, how shall I say this, not bend them any differently or "more" than they are bent now? Now if they do have a factory curvature, it would have to be in the horizontal plane (when mounted), since they are not "left and right" designated. Or would it not matter if one was bowed "up" and the other bowed "down" when mounted? So much to consider, so little time....

If the rear elec. pump is not working, I'de try just bypassing it first. It may be quite a restriction to the suction side of the mechanical pump if its stopped. Does sound like your running out of fuel when the demand is high during racing (foot on floor I assume). The rear electric pump has has an inline fuse under the dash onthe passenger side right behind/above the console/radio area. There is one for the pump and other for the defrost. There are NOT in the regular fuse box of 10. Might as well check those first before doing anything!

The proper thread is 3/16 tubing, with 10mm x 1.00mm nuts, using double SAE flare. Not a lot of metric choices to choose from, just being sure. Don't worry about getting the exact shape or length, just go buy a 12" piece (maybe two, one for practice) from any auto store, thread in one end to the caliper, snug it down and then bend it in a loop until it fits into the hose end, without kinking and clear of the caliper and strut tube. Not much to get in the way unless you get to close to the wheel well or something. Leave the hose end loose from its mounting point so you have wiggle room to make it thread into place without having to have the exact shape. Wear gloves and bend it around your fingers, a little at a time. Don't be afraid to use wide pliers to help if you pad the jaws. Practice with a piece of thick wire to see what path you need to take to get it into both ends without getting it too long or crazy but with only wide radius bends. Have your son help with the bleeding process by pressing on the brake! You'll get him to school in the Z one way or the other!

Look carefully at the water pump cavity on the one your swapping in. Make sure there is no sign of wear, scraping damage or a rough pitted surface on the turbine water flow surfaces. Pump efficiency is determined by fit and close clearances in this area. Examine it closely.I and others have chased cooling problems that were finally resolved by replacing the front cover. Not the first place people check, its even hard to see when you the pump off. Search here and hybridz for "cavitation" to learn more.

Seems you found the only pot hole in Houston. That's not easy to do. Must have been a real nice one. Love my azc control arms.... And there's no way a garage that clean gets used for anything serious and I have spare controls arms if you need one. Some may not even be bent!

I think you might have a hard time getting a zerk to put grease in all the places you want it in these bushings. Easy to get grease to the outer shell/bushing interface but its not going to make it to the inner bushing/sleeve interface. There's no side containment... I did put zerks on my front sway bar shells to see if that helps down the road. Thanks to another member for that suggestion Somewhere on suspension.com they mention rifling the inner bushing using a tap to create a spiral channel to hold grease on the inner bushing/sleeve interface. This should keep grease in that space for a long time.

I'm currently hunting for new tires too. Tire rack has a limited selection of 225-50-15 that are not track tires, but if you look for 45 series 15's there are a few more to choose from. Just a hint for use "15 inch" die hards.... And I'm looking again today, and the list is much shorter..... Now what was I looking at???

Small tap? Bah! Put the nut on the end of it, make sure the nut is fully engaged, but NOT down tight, leave room for it to move, then HIT IT, square, with a 2 lb sledge. It will pop right out. You can also use a 5/16 pin punch to hit it (from the threaded end). There is just nothing subtle about dealing with these nasty notorius parts.

Oh you poor guy. You are in for some fun! Search the site for "spindle pin" and you will have hours of reading on the topic and find many solutions. You are not alone. The good news is when you are done, you will be part of a special group of those of us that have been throught it and survived. All the best.

DGA: How life in the GTA? I believe I may the actuator you are looking for. I has almost a hook on the end of the arm does it now? I was thinking of using it some day to do that function after I put Vintage A/C in my 73, but its just sitting there. Drop me a note to z240@shaw.ca and I'll get it on the way.

Just because 'thread man' has to have something to say today, "official" seat belt bolts are 7/16-20 UNF grade 5. This is true of the ones in the Z. These are the only SAE hardware in the car that I am aware of. Those 16mm heads are actually for a 5/8 wrench.... Reference from http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/rules-regulations/administration/fmcsr/fmcsrruletext.aspx?reg=571.209 They do mention that 1/2-13 and "equivalent metric" are okey dokey as well.

I've used the speedhut 4" Gps speedo and tach. They have turn signal and hi beam indicators built in. Their system is excellent quality. And I'll never have to reach back in their like a contortinist and attach that dang speedo cable ever again!!!

The problem is not finding listings for the correct right side parts, the problem is actually ordering and getting one! No one seems to have stock.

This is a well known problem with supply. Best solution is to get a new right inner and outer and put them on the left side. This is the solution of choice for many previously discussed here. Yes, 280 is the same as 240, up to 78. There are other solutions to adapt other tie rods to our cars documented on hybridz.org, but nothing simple.

or splice on a piece of a heater hose from some other car with a 180 bend, or use a goodyear external metal coil we've spoken of here (e-z coil?) meant to support a home made bend. Or since that line only carries fuel vapours, don't sweat the probability of a 1/2" copper fitting made 180deg bend failing anytime soon from sulphur embrittlment...

I'm not very close, but if no one else closer to you has one, I can help for sure. I have a couple of scrap R180's I use just for times like this.... $10 + shipping. Including the 5 bolts!! Drop me a note to z240@shaw.ca if you need it.

Just reverse the torque sequence if you're worried.

Tough one. I "think" these go under one of the belt mounting points (large hole for SAE 7/16" fine seat belt bolts ) and the small hole provides a place to put the screw that holds the cover, maybe on top of the rear shock tower? Did early 260 have that yet, If not then it must a clip that holds the plastic body of the retractor housing behind the seat. Hope this points you in the right direction.

This has been a pretty common problem for many. One of the more unusual situations that I struggled with at one time was the connection between the wire and the spade terminal on the end of the wire at the starter solenoid. It had gone bad from I'm sure from pulling the connector off by pulling the wire rather than by grasping the connector when pulling it off, and the repitition of doing so while trouble shooting the starter problem. The bad connection inside the dirty rubber/plastic connector sheath was invisible, and it was intermittent. Take it off, put it on, it would work, then stop working. All it took was a quick snip and a replacement terminal attached. A standard 1/4 female spade terminal is all it takes. Strip back the insulation, clean the undoubtly dirty wire strands inside, crimp on a new connector, solder it for security, add shrink tube, and your back in business. Momma used to get git so mad when I was little when I yanked the cord for the chainsaw out of the wall from 10 feet away. Made me use the machete to clear that bush for a week to learn me a lesson. Never did it again. After I started kindergarten she finally let me use the tractor to clear that last acre. Some lessons you never forget.

Bug Zs-ondabrain again, he's still kicking and knowing him, he has some still. Send him a PM. I have a few as well, just not as close! Let me know if you need one.

Pretty hard not to have some valve damage with what you mentioned having happened. Definitely sucks. The devil is in the details ain't it? Lock tight and proper torque specs... Good thing we like workin' on 'em as much as driving 'em, right??

There is a thread on here (several actually) that go into great detail on this subject, with complete parts lists. A little searching will go a long way. Look for "Auto manual swap" especially one from user ARNE. The only trickey bits I remember are remembering to remove the spacer on the end of the crank, putting a pilot bushing in the end of the crank, and finding the bits you don't have, like a clutch pedal, flywheel and hydraulic line.

The FSM has a very detailed description of what to remove in what order to dis-assemble the 2nd gen 4 speed. (look at any FSM for 72 or later). Page TM-3 in the 73 manual is what I'm looking at. There is a "main drive bearing snap ring" as seen from inside the bell housing that's retaining the front bearing that may be the big thing you forgot. They also mention the back up switch, C-ring and pin, and return spring plug and what's found inside on the rear extension that have to come out to get the back half off. THere is pictures of everything. xenons30.com has the FSM's on line.

oranngetang, I have parts for you down in Calgary. PM sent.