beandip

TEXASZ , I will send a PM Gary

They do have por in a cream form . It comes in a tube like tooth paste. I have used it with good success for filling seams when I have removed the dry white calking the factory used . I coated the inside of the hatch with the paint , I have the glass out, and I used masking tape to seal the seam around the glass side of the hatch to keep the paint form driping through. There were a couple of spots that were gaps and used the paste on them . Also accross the rear bellow the hatch where the floor meets the pannel I found some cracks in the calking and filled again with the paste. I have a great method of shooting por paint inside the doglegs and rockers and any of the cavities that I have found. The ''gun'' was about $7.00 and is a snap to clean . If you are interested send me a PM , Gary I OMITTED THE FACT THAT ESCANLON IS THE ONE THAT TOLD ME OF THIS GUN . I JUST WANTED TO GIVE CREDIT WHERE CREDIT IS DUE . :surprised

using the e brake as was noted adjusts the rear brakes as was stated . Each and every time it is used . It is only supposed to adjust when there is a certain amount of play ,due to wear of the shoes. At this point it is supposed to take up the slack but no more. Not ever useing the ebrake will result in having only front wheel brakes when the shoes wear sufficntly that there is to much clearence and they are no longer contacting the drum. I have this problem with my Wife's car , which is an automatic.

It could also be a stolen car. No title ? Hope you have a good signed and dated bill of sale.

I agree with the others on this . You may not have any rust now but most of the liners I have seen although tuff still can fail . Weather from a stone hitting from under the car or if you had to add something or remove something like using a different voltage regulater for and example . If ANY water gets under the covering you will never know untill it is too late . I thought of using Rhino-liner on the inside of the car to seal the medal and for sound controll. I decided not to for those reasons. If you have a 99% rust free car and you paint the bay a different color than the rest of the car, you deminish the value of the car. Reguardless of what color or finish it is if different . Like Mike said " IF you were ever to sell the car , the linner would be a vary big red flag , that would be difficult to avoid even with pictures .

have you tried to ''lube'' the lock ? I use WD-40 because I have a can on my bench. But graphite is a vary good lube for locks and it will not gum up the parts. Mostly I use WD on locks exposed to the weather like on gates and such . Bare in mind that I live in a rainey part of the US. There is a despencer of graphite that is spificly desingned for locks to shoot the powdered graphite into the lock.

Absolutly on the masks. If you do get some of the paint on your skin ,clean it right away or it will be permanate untill it wears off. I use Lacquer thinner and it removes it vary well if you get it right away . I painted the underside of my floors with it and had a smear on the side of my face like Mike Tison , almost waited too long. Latex gloves are a must.

I don't do webbers , but I know that they need to be jetted correctly . This is a start. I agree with the others posted before me.

the last time I used it it was on the home page right side

Lots of great replys , I broke two sockets the last time . I ended up using a impact socket with a brakeover bar . Gary they were not quality sockets.

If you are spraying some of these paints the stuff will flat out kill you. Rattle can no ,but be carefull . Some of the modern paints have stuff in them that is accumulative and can cause all sorts of nasty ailments later. A filter mask is effective for some things but is not effective in others . Read the label on the can . Two hours painting engine parts ! It's going to look good . Gary I DONT TYPE FAST ENOUGH .

another thing, that was not mentioned . Check for tires out of round , there could be flat spots on the tires , if they were locked up and slid some distance. Just, when you have her up on a jack spin the wheel and take a close look. sounds like you checked things like I would have asked you to do . Like Bambi said it could any of several things , or a combination of things. Welcome aboard . Gary

SEE YOU IN THE MOVIES GOOD BIE TO MY FRIENDS AND TO THE OTHERS

MrMarcDude. About the question on the cam towers . I suggest you go to the expert phred . If any one knows he would , and I trust his knowledge. He has been this business for a long time and does it for a living and is vary good.. send him a PM

I suggest you sending phred a PM . He does this stuff for a living and is vary good at it.

Trogen , dont be too sure about the extent of the damage . Remove all the undercoating it the surrounding area and I bet you will find a lot more. Is this rail shown the rocker under the door or the floor support ? I believe Zed Findings sells what you will need to do the repair. I used his floor and am vary pleased with the quality.

MrMarkDude here is a good page to look at that will answer a lot of your questions and there is a ton of good info. geocities.com/row4navy/head2.html another one is geocities.com/zgarage.2001/engine.html

My '73 had a vinyl top and it stopped just forward of the hatch about 3'' .

Sounds to me that you picked a good shop that know what they are doing. I think I would just ask any questions that you have and let the pros do there thing. Isn't that the reason you picked a shop like that ? I know it is not going to be cheep. The people that go to the the cut rate shops and expect first class work are the ones that are always complaining. Are you going to have her together by spring ? Gary

MRIZ , this is the same stuff I am using . Good luck.

I just went over my car with the D A and am geting it ready to shoot . I sanded off any and all rust found and am using epoxy primer OMNI MP 170 , it's a self etching primer. $50.00 a gal. and I will follow it up with a med. fill primer . I am not shooting over any rust just clean sheetmatal and what is left of the origional primer and paint that was good. my 2cts

Helps alot , thanks.

do you get the fumes inside the cabin of the car , or is it all outside ? If you are getting gas fumes inside the car , there coming from the hoses in back of the trim pannels under the hatch and to the rear of the passanger side rear wheel. I was having the problem of fumes inside mostly like stale varnish stink. Really smelled BAD. This is why I removed the evap. tank and most of the hoses . This tank systime was never used on the early cars shipped to the UK and Aus. only to us here . If you only smell the fumes when the tank has been filled , look to the vent lines for the problem. Do not use coolent line or vacuum line for replacement hoses. Nappa has a selection of sizes of fuel rated hose also a boat supply might have what is needed.

I have been using Turtle Wax 2001 on my vinyl with good results. Another member turned me on to it. I used it on the hot tub cover that is exposed to the weather 24 7 and it has been out in the weather for 2 years and looks like new. And thats sun , rain , snow the whole bit. It is covered with the same stuff the seats are done with. So far so good and it is not greasy nor does it attract dust like Armor all does. Works good on the rubber also.