beandip

One more thing DO NOT USE WATER HOSE FOR THESE VENT LINES. Nappa has an asortment sizes of fuel line hose , hose that is ment for heater hose or vacume line is not of the compound compatable for gas. Hope this helps.

nine out of ten reply were on target , only one said anything about a 280. I think that either you have a split in the filler neck part way up from the bottom or there is a hole in one of the vent lines. As Bambi said pull the shield and have a look , it is only held on by three sheet metal screws. After reviewing the drawing of the tank and hoses there is only one vent line of the three that could drip where you said the leak is driping . It is the small line that exits the tank just outboard of the sending unit. Are you smelling fumes inside the cabin of the car ? If you are by all means remove the trim pannel and check out the other hoses and the evap tank. I hope you dont need to replace the filler neck but if you do here is the part # 172-12-E8800 A hint to save the little pins that you must push out of the plastic ''rivets'' take a leg from a panty-hose and insert it into the hose of your shop vac and use it as a filter and vacume out the area, also if you have some 5/8'' heater hose , tape it in place and use it to get into the tight places. I found several pins form the past when the pannels were removed by others.

I USE TURTLE WAX 2001 I use it on the seats and dash as well also on the vinyl interior. It is not greasy like Armor all and it give great uv protction. I have used it on the Vinyl cover for out hot tub that is exposed to the weather 24 7 and it is 4 yrs old and looks like new. It is covered with the same stuff our seats are. I find it work as well on tires to prevent checking. By the way , IS IT COLD UP THERE ?? GARY I use lacquer thinner to clean rubber.

I have been running the ZX ignition for 3 yrs . I have no reason to change to any thing else. It performs with out a problem to red line . I have a daily driver and have never been sorry I made the change. I am just now installing a 280ZX engine and again the same ignition. There may be hotter systimes that will work better at 9K but I am never in need of this sort of performance. If going with the ZX ignition be sure to also get the mount that attaches the dist to the engine, that short extension that the dist attaches to. The 240 part is different. Also use the module marked 12 80 the '81--'83 have a different module , the dist will work but the module requires the computer and without it , it goes to retard at RPM. Also get the coil and bracket. The 240 coil is smaller in diameter so the mount is too small.

Ed is correct the R-200 is a stronger diff . but the 180 is plenty strong . I was under the impression that you were after different gearing of the R-200. As was stated keep the diff. for any future project as well as the half shafts . I would keep any part that you can use on the 240 that is good.

I am going to ask a vary basic question here . What are you using to replace the stock brake lines? DO NOT USE COPPER for this or for fuel !!

The fuel rail is the tubing used to run the fuel accross he engine to the two carbs and return the excess fuel back to the tank. On the 240 motor it starts and ends at the front of the engine . As you can see from Bambi's picture the mount for the pump is only a piece of sheet metal bent at a 90deg. screwed to the body of the car near the outlet of the fuel tank . Use a inline filter between the pump and the tank to protect it from any crud coming form the tank. These are high speed turbin pumps and they dont like to digest rust or dirt. I would also maintain the filter up front by the front of the engine. As I posted earlier look for the two wires wrapped in blue tape under the car by the area where the filler neck attaches to the tank. The factory hid them up there. Gary

The bar I mounted is a stock part. I dont want to stiffen the ride , just tighten up some of the roadability for street driving . I used all new rubber mounting also for the same reason . Also to keep the road noise out as will.

There most likely is a test that the dealer can do with there testing equipment. Why dont you just plug it in and start the engine. Is this a spair module for you or are you just now installing the ignition ? Do you have a 12volt coil as will ?

Alan I was hoping you would see this thread. Gary

VQ35 here is a vary good site to have a look at geocities.com/row4navy/ Have a look around there is a section on strokers as well as a lot of good info. For one thing to going back to your first post . The L-24 cannot be punched out to 30 safely . One other thing if you do go other than carbs . You will need to change fuel tanks or modify yours . You will need an injector fuel pump and they mount inside the tank I believe not like the 240. All the F-54 blocks are the same , the turbo engine has dished pistons and a P-90 head. The injected engines have the P-79 head and flat topped pistons. This engine block is the last evolution of refinement of inline Zs. It has different cylinder cooling casting and supports internally than the other 280 blocks.

With dished pistons and a P-90 head , you have a turbo engine with as for the amount of boost it will handel , for that you will need to ask a turbo guy , sorry. The P-90 is a low compression head and and is for use with a turbo . The F-54 block that has flat topped pistons is the same engine but higher compression and ment for injecton . It will have a P-79 head and it can also use carbs , the compression is higher because of the lack of any boost. I think 8.5 to 1 or about that. I am using a '82 flat top with a P-79 and SUs. Gary P.S. give phred a PM he is an engine builder and a member. He is the real deal and knows his stuff. I think the P-90 A is a head with hidrolic valve lifters . I know I miss spelled hidrolic. Dislexia is a hell of a thing.

if the adjustments on the linkage is right and the boot or anything else is not preventing the trans form going into gear , then it is likely the sincromesh that is worn in the trans. If you are not familure with what that is , it's the ''cluch'' that slows the gears down when you shift and aligns them so everything meshes when you shift . Upon decelleration the trans will pop out of gear. Hope this helps. Gary

240zman these brackets are the same as on my '73 . If you look at the picture you will see the front of the diff is in the way it you use a 280 sway bar . The bar that fits is one from a early '74 260 . It has bends in it that causes the s. bar to travel forward of the diff and clear it. I got mine at the u-pullet ,$10.00. All the hardware that attaches to the suspention is the same as the 280s. I have a extra set of plates if you need a set . Gary

Kmack good call that is a vary good site. A real keeper It should be added to the tec files. Is that possable ? Or is it concidered someones property ? This one and the one on engines , there is so much good infromation in there.

sblake , you are right . If the compression is low enough you can run the lower octane fuel. the '73 is the first emissioned engine and the compression is lower than that of the three privious years. The higher octane fuel on a low compression engine is waisting $. If it doesn't ping under load it is ok. Corgan33 if you are going to have a valve job done , have the hardened seats put in . In anny case. You might concider milling the head and uping the compression. The real guru is this area is phred give him a pm or email . He does this stuff for a living and builds race engines for Z cars. My L-24 out of my '73 was running at 145psi compression to 150 accross all 6 . Not that high but a stock 88 head . How does this compair to your engine. I was getting 23MPG on the road .

one line is connected to the engine so that fuel vapor is not vented to the outside of a sealed systime. the valve allows fresh air to enter he fuel tank so as the fuel is drawn from the tank it is replaced with air . in the heat It will resist pressure to a point and then it will releave it . Other wise you will be pulling a vacume. vent to the aircleaner then the vapor will be burned with the incoming air. When it is connected properly to the engine the PVC draws the fumes in this way and burns it.

for one thing DO NOT SPRAY STARTER FLUID ON A RUNNING ENGINE !!! That stuff is ether and you will vary vary likely set the engine on fire. By some carberater cleaner and spray this around any thing that you suspect is leaking vacume , of cource while the engine is running. This stuff is non flammable. There will be a change in idle if and when you spray on the leak. Why were you dumping out the oil in the carbs , there is no need to change this unless it is contaminated. The cause of he piston sticking is mostlikely cause by some dirt cought on the piston and jaming it in the cylinder. Another good use for the cleaner. With the carb right side up , lift the piston and let it drop . It should fall with a clunk when it hits the bottom . If this is not the case remove the dome and CAREFULLY lift the piston out being careful of the needle and the spring . Clean the crud off the piston and inside the cylinder. Reassemble , do not swap any parts . Clean one unit at a time. use 20wt oil in the damper for best all around results.

Phred, that's a hell of a systime . Looks like you did a lot of work to keep the plumbing equal in length . How is the sound with the glass packs , I know you said great sound , but for a race car or for a street driver . I dont want to be setting off a bunch of car alarms ! Great looking set up , I hope to see it soon. Gary

sounds to me that someone has modified your set up for the webbers. I have a '73 and it is the same as the '71 and '72 I dont know about the '70 240 but I think it was also the same.

I ran duel pipes years ago on a inline 6 and found that if the two pipes were interconnected part way back that it helped with the resonance and back rap when decelerating when down shifting. Now this was with just glass packs Bullet type mufflers. As far as tuning I dont remember any problem either way. the inter connection can only be a single section of tail pipe welded to simply connect the two pipes.

It is a great format for information and help with poblems and like was said dedicated to the early classic Z . Once in a great while it can get off track but rarely , usually when compairing the Z to other cars performance. Then the topic can turn to the Jag or what ever was discussed. There are several people that have been into 240Zz actively for many many years. I miss the site, Mike I hope you can do your magic. Thanks for all your hard work, I have a tendency to take this great effort for granted , thanks again . Gary

1. I am doing the same swap. In fact even my Z is a '73 . I am using my SUs but I have SM needles to handel the added CCs and I also have some head work and a after market cam . The SUs will handel the 280 no problem and the performance will be vary close to the injection . Just low tec, you will need to use the choke when the engine is cold. That kind of thing. Yes to all the other questions. You will need to add a electric fuel pump if you are not already running one. The later head is not set up for the manual pump. If you need one, find a RX-7 that is carbed at the bone yard NOT a injected car. This pump will work great on the Z and mine was $15.00 at the u-pull-it. It is quiet also. It mounts by the fuel tank. #6 you might think of replacing the rear main seal. this can be done without droping the pan just remove by prying it out carefully . enjoy the ride Gary