beandip

The slight differences in the compression don't amount to anything. I doubt that an ajustment will change anything , unless you have a clicking , loose rockers. The slight flat spot on first start up from a stop could be caused by a couple of things. Three actually 1. if the mixture adjustments are set a little lean . 2. if the oil in the dashpots is too thin. Recomend 20wt 3. vacume advance is failing or has failed . Just a couple of thoughts to look at. One way to check the lean mixture is to warm the engine to normal running temp. Like when you have driven the car for 15min. or more. With the cover off the air cleaner and the engine at idle, ''blip'' the throttle to full open . That is, open , shut quickly as you can. If you get a pop out of the carbs , one or both , this is a lean pop. Just reach under the carb and turn the mixture adjustment ''knob'' 1/8 of a turn counter clockwise . Repeate the test , if a pop continues repeat the adjustment as before. If you can find out what oil was put in the carbs, ATF or Mystery oil can cause the flat spot also. Thicker oil will richen the first speed up of the engine and may cure the problem. My 2cts

As long as the diff is in good shape and the gear ratio you want , there is no reason to change . I know a couple of Z drivers with V-8 and they are running 180 and not having any problems. I made the switch only because of the gear ratio and a good buy on the parts. Gary

Carl , in the instructions I wrote you will find information on how to assemble the puller in such a way that it will spread the two halves apart. Take a measuerment first , then spread the halves 1/8'' farther that stock . When the nuts are relaxed it will spring back about 1/16'' and it will allow you to reassemble with out trouble. You should be able to use the old pins using this puller , since you don't need to pound on them. Keep me posted on how things go for you . By the way be sure to lube the all thread before you start . Gary

Carl, why did you want the spindel puller if you are done with the job ???? Gary

A couple of things . Have you checked the ujoints ? My car was doing the same thing on a left turn and it turned out to be a ujoint on the half shaft. I ended up replacing all four . As it turned out 2 of the four were going to be a near future problem one was bad and the fourth was good but I dident want to pull all apart again so I just did them all. The other thought I had was a slack e-brake cable or linkage. Is the e-brake functional ? If loose this could be contacting the drive shaft. It could also be a axel bearing going out in the rear as well . This will show up when aditional load is put on the wheel in a turn. Hope this is helpful. Gary

Yes there is a restricter in the return line. right at the end of the rail where it attaches to the rubber line at the front of the valve cover . the end of the rail was closed with about a .015'' hole in it . Try a pump from a RX-7 , one from a carbed engine , not injected . I bought mine for $15.00 at the bone yard 3 yrs ago and it works great. We tried it on a tripple Mikuni's setup on stroker engine and it worked vary well . Gary

I have a pin puller for loan ! all I ask is that it be returned to me and that the bower pay the shipping both ways. If interested contact me and include the zip and I will find out the cost of shipping . I am thinking it would be about $6.00 each way. This makes the job a 30 min. on each side and you can do it on the car. It also presses the new bushings in. Gary P. S . this is for members only please.

I checked my references and came up with the same numbers . You might think of pulling the rear plate and check the numbers on the ring gear. This will tell you for sure what you have.

I have a question for you . Say the engine has a low compression on one or two cylinders, will you pass on the car ? This is an old car with at least 100,000 miles on it . In all likely hood it will need a rebuild in the near future especially if it is driven hard. I would be more concerned about the rust than any thing else , this is what is going to be the major cost factor to repair. You can find a good engine at a bone yard for $500.00 , Replacing one floor pannel and a little other rust repair , if repaired properly , will cost double that. I noticed that there are no bumpers . If you are to buy them the rear alone is about 700.00 new if you can find one. what is with the battery in the passanger compartment ? Look under the carpet at the metal floors not the jute or the carpet , poke it with a screw driver fron the inside and from under the car to see if it is solid. If it has been repaired accept only new metal that has been welded in place , no fiberglass !! Or screwed in pannels. The engine looks dirty but ok, one thing is that you will be able to see any leaks because they havent been cleaned off. It looks like a car that has just been a driver for someone .

I remember reading the post on the tripple SUs . As I recall the crux of the issue is the dual SUs will flow all the air that is needed and or required for all but the highly modified Strokers. And why the tripple SUs dont work is about the volicity of the fuel air mix traveling through the manifold and head to the cylinder. Because of the fireing order of this engine this flow is disrupted and the "charging" of the cylinder is off cycle and the "charging " effect of the flow is disrupted. Off hand I cannot remember the name of the member who posted the explaination .

just for future reference , to get fuel to the mec. pump all you need to do is take a rag and an airline and put A LITTLE PRESSURE in the tank , this will force fuel to the front . It is better than tasting the fuel , healther too. Glad you solved the mystery . Gary:classic:

One thing that enters in to this is high RPM . This will add stress to the chain and in a big way to the surface of the tensioner. So in addition of age this can cause failure . Constant rpm will have a positive effect here as well , so an engine driven on freeways at constant speed or long distances will show less wear for the miles driven. This is why it is so difficult to predict the life of any engine or component . My 2cts Gary

first the R-200 I dont know what you are puting it into , but I installed one in my '73 and used the 240 half shafts. You need the mustashe bar and the bolts that secure it to the diff, they are different from the 180. The m. bar is installed with the purches forward unlike the 180. The 5 speed will require some modification of the tranny tunnel to accomodate the shifter. I havent done this mod so others can fill in here . The ignition will work great , you will need to get a different module , it must be marked 12 80 , other wise it will retard at rpm because it needs the computer hook up . One from a '79-'80 are the correct ones. Your origional drive shaft will be needed and I dont think it will need modification , again I havent done this mod but the 2+2 is longer in this area. If this is going into a 240 and you are going to run SUs as I am . You will need to get a electric fuel pump. The later head has no option for a mechanical pump. You can find a RZ-7 pump from a '79-'80 non fuel injected car for about $15.00 at the local bone yard. If you are converting to injection then there are other issues involved such as fuel tank . I went to SM needles in the SUs to handel the increase in displacement. :classic:

David , at 140K you should be fine , in the future if and when you pull the head for a valve job or if you are going to rebuild the engine , I would then replace the chain and sprokets as well as the tensioner. To answer the question it should go to 200K miles. Alot depends on how hard the engine is pushed or has been pushed. If abused anything can happen. :classic:

What are they off of ? There is a member that is asking me to find him a pair of SUs . He is from the UK . If these are workable for a 240 ti would save a lot of shipping and fuss . Gary:classic:Nigel Sorry I thought you were form the Uk. :stupid: :stupid:

For starters it sounds like you need a valve job . Having compression of 130 on four cylinders and 90 and 115 on two. This is not good. Ed is right the cam is only one thing and the cheapest part of a cam up grade. I think from what you have said , you are asking the wrong questions. I dont think the cam change is where you want to spend your limited dollars. I am in the same situation with the cash flow. Insted of driving by t he speed o meter . Watch the tach and feel where the power band is . When you take the engine in first gear to 4500 and shift , the engine should pull hard and take her to the same in secound , and see what it pulls like in third. Be mindfull of the speed at that gear change and how the engine pulls. I say 4500 only because of the lag because if you try for that number it will likely be at 5000 +. I think you are under RPM ing the engine expecting it to have the tork and pull from too low of RPM . Adjust the valves first because if loose you could float a valve and blow a piston. Especially if you have a weak valve spring in the mix . You havent mentioned how many miles sense the engine was rebuilt. Or a complete valve job was done. With the number given it seems ready for a valve job now or in the near future. Change the rear end gear ratio to a 3.90 to 1 and the car will pull like a woonded bull. These engines will spin high RSs stock but at 30 yrs bad things can happen fast if not in good repair. My 2 cs

be sure to use hardened bolts on the engine stand. :classic:

sounds like dirt or crud in the shut off valve or the shutoff is shot. If you are sure you adjusted the float correctly , that can only be the answer. messing with it with a file or sand paper will not do anything but make it worse. Unless you have installed the wrong fuel pump and it is putting out too much pressure.

welcome to the wonderful world of the flat top carbs. My advise is to throw them in the shi& can and find a pair of round tops. You will be so much better off and satisfided. There out there to be found , I picked up a couple of sets as spairs . I do know of a guy that has some for for sale . If you want let me know and I will pass on the number . send me a pvt message or a email.

Give danny's datsuns a try and datsun dude another is Too intense restorations.