beandip

I agree with taking someone with you that knows cars , however if they dont know Z cars they wont know where to look. Not being able to drive the car is a big red flag in my book . Check the car for rust under the Battery and look closely at the frame rail right there. Lift the carpets on both the passanger and driver side and check for rust or repair to the metal also look under the car in both of these areas , I use a phillips screw driver and poke the floors to see if the under coating is hiding body cancer. Check just back of the doors down low on the rear fenders on both sides these are the doglegs look for any bubbeling of the paint , the same time look just forward of the doors down low for same thing . If found this is rust coming through from the back side , bad news in both cases . Look on the sil of the rear hatch in the corners , another problem area. Good luck and let us know what you find . With these cars rust is the number one biggest thing and vary expensive to have repaired , if done correctly.

The clips are for the brake lines where the rubber hose connect to the holder bracket where the hose connect to the metal line. There may be other aplications but this is at least one.

I will dig around and see if I still have the ones form my car . I will look tomarrow and get back to you. G

I bought Zed Findings floors for my car . I only used the passanger side one but it turned out vary good. Charley Osborne recommends that you wait untill you have the new floor in hand before you remove the old floor. To hold the new floor in place for the welder and so I could fit it in place , I used self tapping sheet metal screws . As the welder welded in the pannel he removed the screws and filled the holes. All bare metal was treated and painted with POR , top and bottom. The floor pans come with the center strut support . I used the old seat supports , just used a spot weld remover for the welds on the tranny and rocker , the floor ones I just ground off the metal on a bench grinder.

What oil are you using in the carbs ? Try some 20wt and see if this clears up the stumble . Have you ballanced the carbs and checked the mixture? If you are running lean this could be the trouble another thing is the vacume advance check that this will also cause what you are describing .

7 months ! You work fast. Enjoy the ride !

You are just going to need to shop around . Be prepaired for sticker shock , because these thing are spendy. Go to Motosports at zcarparts.com . Try Victoria British at VictoriaBritish.com , CourtesyParts.com ( Courtesy Nissan ) . Be sure to tell them it is a '71. To intense Restoration may help also. I dont have the address for him. You can watch ebay I have seen them there from time to time. At least this is a start. Maby some kind sole here has an extra one. Gary By the way welcome to the club.

Reallity , check with Ztherapy. They wont tell you wrong. Just be vary shure that the choke linkage is not hanging up . The fuel line that runs form the float chamber to the adjustment on the carb is critical. If it is not plyable it will cause the choke to stick particially open. This will cause a vary rich mixture.

The same goes for the rings , and when you pull the pistons have the wrist pins checked as well . If you replace the rings , you should hone the cylinders also.

I don't see what the debate is all about. If you post or download anything to a public forum , it's out there. If you don't want it copied or printed don't send it in the first palace. To me it's like having a beautifull car in the garage and no one gets to enjoy seeing it or riding in it . It's a waist . If you take a picture of your car and it is admired by others take price in that fact that they enjoy the picture as you do. If you post it out there , soon as you hit the send it's out of your controll . I know all the stuff about the laws and copyright stuff but really get a grip. This may all have been said in a post before me ,but honestly I just skimmed the thread , as I find it silly .My 2c Gary

The number 1 issue of Sports Z. Take a look in the Tech section , I havent seen the post there but have done a few wheels , so PM me if you need help

No matter what you decide here , do not change bearings and use old races. If you are worried about the old bearings , pull them and wash all the grease from the bearings and races and look at them . If you see any lines or dull spots on the races then replace them , do the seals too. I adjust the bearings on my cars just like Ed said. tighten them , not real tight but about a 1/2 turn past where the final adjustment will end up . spin the wheel and then back the nut off to the point that there is just no loosness when you feel the weel for loosness. Take a close look at the suspention parts for play. Be sure to use wheel bearing grease for disk brake applications.

If Toyota brought the car back , they would sell a zillian of them. vary fine looking car , in the day time. Ugly with the head lights up , in my view. At quick glance it look so much link a early Z . You can sure see the influence. What of the engine ? I dont know anything of the car , really . Looks like a duel over haed cam with a flow through design like he Hemi . Are thoes Mikuni tripples ? Gary

Kmack, I have the same turbine wheels you pictured . I have looked but there is no name on mine. There are two stiles with the same spacing of the fins . Mine are like the ones shown with the fins going all the way to the vary center. Gary

I have been using kroil and PB blaster for quite a while and I like the use of kroil the best .But as was mentioned I have only found it on the net. I stay away from silikroil because of the silicone and if you ever want to paint the part it is such a pain. The Blaster I think works as good as kroil but PB stinks to high heaven. My garage is attached to the house and the smell is a real factor for me. As some one just mentioned , WD-40 is only used on toys and fish bate , by the way dont use WD on reels or guns It will gum everything up after they sit a while. Gary

I miss not having it for sure. I would think if any won would know if the list was off , it would be Mike don't you think??

IF IN OREGON AND THE CAR HAD SHOLDER BELTS WHEN NEW AND YOU ARE NOT USING THEM EVEN IF YOU HAVE THE LAP BELT ON . $92.00 the same as not anything at all. THIS INCLUDES THE PASSANGERS . IF UNDER 16 ON A BYCICLE NO HELMET ITS TICKET TIME . I dont know the fine for a kid.

one thing you can do to really liven up the performance is to change the diff. gearing , got to a 390 ratio this will make a big difference. If off the line performance is what you are after.

I have a pin remover that really makes the task easy . I have the specks and parts list . If some one has access to a welder and a lathe it is a simple devise to make . I aquired the one I have from a member with the understand that I would have it for loan to the members. However the shipping cost to oz makes this a nonissue. let me know if someone would build one for the use of our members in oz. The tool is made from a 12''length of 2'' steel tubeing about 14'' of hardened all thred and some washers and a few nuts . 1, 4'' length of bar stock taped to fit the spindel pin on one and attached to the allthread . This part the taped piece of bar stock is the hardest part to make . There is a member over here that is going to make a puller for himself If any one is interested mabey he would turn one of the barstock parts for you . The member I got mine from had at least one of the complete tool for sale for $85.00. Let me know and send me a PM . Gary

did you notice that we could read and understand all , except when alphadog posted with a aus. accent ? I dident understand a word.

This is for removing the pin that attaches the rear controll arm to the strut. I have a tool that is available for loan . All that is required for its use is to promise to pay the shipping both ways and returned promply , and clean ,also it is for membars only. There is no need to beat or pound the pin to remove it . After the car is jacked up and on stands , remove the nuts from each end of the spindle pin .( Dont forget to remove the tapered pin in the middle of the controll arm , that is there to keep the pin from turning + don't tighten it too much when done ) .The tool is then screwed down on one end of the pin. and a large nut is then turned on the tool and the pin is drawn out of the controll arm .In most cases the old pin is reused. You then replace the bushings and the pin after cleaning any rust present and reassemble. This tool is made of a section of pipe and a hardened length of all thread and a series of washers and a thrust bearing . If urathane bushing are being used the tool is used to spread the controll arm 1/16'' wider to allow for the new bushings. Makes it an easy one day job . Gary I now have a set of drawings if you want to build one your self, just send me a pvt message.

Simon , did you receive my email about your impending engine rebuild ? Gary

TEXASZ , I will send a PM ,I dont want to derail this thread .Gary