beandip

Yes after you dump the split plugs , and by all means do so , Do the same with the flat top carbs and get a set of SUs. For plugs just use NGK BPR6ES they are about $10.00 for the set. When you can afford it look for a ZX ignition , one with a 12 80 module on the side of the distributer. It's the little black box. All the dist. from '79 to '82 will work but the only ones that have the correct module are form the '79 & '80. Get the coil too , and be sure to get the mount that attaches to the block and the bottom of the ZX dist. your 240 part wont work. With these three things you will be amaised how much better the engine will run.

When you check the fuses don't just look at them , check with a mulitmeter. They may not look burned but check any way , you may save a lot of unnecessary work.

I have a question, what do you mean by surgeing ? Describe what the engine does . Is the engine still equipped with flat top carbs ? Are you using the stock ignition ? I doubt it has anything to do with the valves being out of adjustment. Make sure all electrical connections are tight including the engine ground strap , and are making good contact. Gary

DASHBOARD RESTORATIONS USA dashboardrestorations.com Pete Flemming and Cheryl have the business here in the USA . Brush Prairie Washington. Good people . Gary

The guru for head work Phred , recommends the MSA performance gasket,above all others . He uses them on race as well as street engines. I think you missunderstood what was ment about checking the header surfaces , for a flat fit. Take a file and lay it flat accross the flange length wise and see if there are any high spots or low spots and file untill flat. Also check the thickness of your intake and the header plate and if they are not the same thickness or close , you may need to grind the washers to compinsate. Gary

Too Intense Restoration . Motorsport , and Ebay

If your friend gets south Ztherapy is in Salem Oregon and close to the freeway.

If you don't give a damn then dont post!

I rather use the kroil , than PB Blaster because of the smell plus I think it works a little better. Using the vice grips on the nut wrench is a vary good Idea. Gary

Try this , when starting the cold engine do not touch the gas peddle , just adjust the choke . I usually go to full choke and as soon as the engine begins to fire I push the leaver to about half. Now if you have thin oil in the carbs this can also cause the piston to lift too soon, try 20wt oil. This also might help you. Gary

My Brother died on Utah beach . left our ball at home ? yah right

v12, since you responded, Yes there should be spark at the plug wires when you try and start the engine. You do know that you must have the spark go to ground I hope . Do you have points or is the ignition electronic ? On the inline fuel filter , buy a replacement filter, remove the old one and insert a wooden pencil in the hose to block any flow , install the new filter to the line then remove the pencil and plug in the new filter. If you have a stock ignition check the points for pitting or being burned. If they are ok then the condenser may have failed . Replace it, it's cheep. The fuel filter is not the trouble if you are getting flow up to the engine. If it has crud in it , it is time to change any way. Gary

We finished he clear tonight and it turned out really great, One day I will post some pictures. I am vary pleased with the deltron. The secound coat of clear really made the difference. Just for numbers . We shot 2 qts of white epoxy primer/sealer 2 qts of Deltron base , in Screaming Yellow, and 2 qts of clear. And had plenty of each . we shot the engine bay and jambs . Shot the doors , hatch and hood off the car and the engine and trans is out as will. The interior and all the glass is out too. With reducers , activaters and hardners and all It came to $470.00 Plus the self etching primer and the hi-fill that was used in preping . Gary

What a bunch of crap you guys what the hell does a pissing contest have to do with this site. And flameing any member is out of line . :mad:

A little of information would help ! We cannot read your mind. Are you driving a na or injected car? Do you have any spark at the plugs ? Have you been working on the engine recently ? The little information you supplied makes me think ignition. But there are different kinds for different years and after market units. Gary

I just received a set of tail light gaskets from Troy . No problem at all and am happy . I dont know who made them . Ane I dont care. They fit and will do the job. I plan on the weather seal kit next from him as well . my 2c Gary

I am in the process of painting with PPG's Deltron . I shot the epoxy ptimer sealer yesterday and the last of it today , and shot the base on the engine bay and under the hood and hatch today, will finish the base tomarrow as well as the clear. Really goes on nice and is great to work with .Vary strong smell and buy the best mask you can afford. I am using a filter mask and cant smell a thing but it is vary strong ,dont try and use a simple dust mask . This stuff is not cheep. Gary To answer the question about Imeron one thing I do remember is it took a long time to dry and cure . Like days plus it is toxic.

I cant think of anything since the head is freshly rebuilt. Do as Ed said invest in a cam chain holder . Other wise you will be removing the front of the engine puting things right when the tensioner slips the chain. Congrats on finding the Z all the best . Gary

there is already a drain there . It must be clogged, look from under the car. Also there is a hose from the radio antenna that drains out there. No need to drill any holes there are already drain holes in the rockers and doors and so on . Just look from under the car , they may be covered with undercoat or just clogged. One of the ones to really check is at the bottom of the front fender just ahead of the door , there is one in the front part of the rocker but I am talking here of the gap in the sheet metal of the fender . This is the drain from the cowl and dirt and leaf material will clog this up and rust out the lower part of the fender and the front part of the ''frame rail''. It can be flushed out from below.Gary

How are the filters? could be starving for air or fuel. I think I would look at the air filters first. Try a run without any and see if this helps , One shot wont hurt anything unless you are running on a dirt road.

I installed the ZX in my '73 with an auto trans. Tack works fine and the improvement is so much better it isn't funny . Simple install.

What are you asking ? Are you in doubt as to weather a rebuild is nessary? How was it that you found the metal shavings ,magnetic drain plug? You said that you pulled the engine already , pull the pan and have a look at the main bearings and the crank journals This should tell you alot. If the mains are scored then the crank must be turned and new bearings . same for the rods. Really the engine should be dissassembled and hot tanked and cleaned of all debris . The shavings came form some where , was the block hot tanked before the assembly the last time ?

Welcom to the club . The '72 or 3 , looks real nece especially for what you paid. Hope the rust you spoke of is not major. Now you are infected and there is no cure , sorry. Sit back and enjoy the ride, Gary