beandip

Bill I agree with 2manyzs . It's time to zip it up you might learn something. Your comments most I find to be demeaning to your self. I havent said anything for a long time and this is the first time in the years I have been a member here , to do something like this . Please KNOCK IT OFF. You are only making your self look stupid . I may be band from the site for this . If that is the case so be it. I just can't take it anymore. Gary

Any thing they do the car will be an improvement . For my money the RX-8 or the Honda 2000 is what I would be looking at if I was in the market.

yesterday I came accross the add on this site for MidwestZ I have bought a lot of parts form Chloe in the past , but I went through the intro in the add and registered with them. I received a email from them the same day . I sent them a email telling them that I have been a customer for a long time and have had a great working relationship with Chloe and that I would like to know what is going on with her and or her co. I further stated that I wound NOT be ordering any parts untill I receive information . I further stated that the classiczcar club has been trying to find out the same info , and for the good of out relationship that they should contact the website or my self. I havent heard a work. Gary

count me in Gary

Carl this is why I am careful about loaning it out. I want it back in working order. I havent done mine yet and it would tick me off bigtime that when I need to do mine it had dissapeared.

I am geting ready for paint at present and have been toying with the idea myself. I am contemplating using some pearl on the whole car just to set it off but to shade the center " hump" with a double shot of pearl and take it up the windshield , wind screen . The color I have picked is Ferarri Yellow with gold pearl in the first coat of clear. Suttle but a little of flash . What do you think ?

I agree this is an interesting test and it can be performed by doing the same thing and watching the tach and watching the RPMs . I do this when locating a missfireing cylinder . The interesting part for me is having a print out showing the numbers. I dont think weak valve springs , or the compression test would show it . Unless the the testing is done at uper RPM . I would look at Spark plugs , Plug wire or dist. cap.

My '73 dash and center consol look the same as the '72 .

Hot vs Cold oil will show a difference in oil pressure but not that much. Another thing Eric said that the oil pressure was fine for the most of the 1200 miles and that the last 100 or so is when the pressure dropped. I still think sending unit and poss. the gage. Nissan sending units seem to be more reliable. If you really want to know what is going on connect a mechanical gage to the block and start her up. This will tell you what the pressure really is at idle and at RPM . The factory gages are just a monitor to look at while driving so you can see if there is pressure . 26th is the coffee working for ya . We are all just having a mellow discussion here, at least I am.

Need more info. Did this start all of a sudden , or after some work or new tires? have you had the front tires off for any reason .? A couple of things to check. Jack up the front of the car and spin the tires and watch for out of round , or a flat spot. Have you had to stop quickly locking up the tires ? While off the ground , grasp the tire front and rear and try to wiggle the tire from side to side looking for any play , do the same grasping from top to bottom . I know you said all is new but check any way. Again while off the ground loosen the lugg nuts untill the wheel is loose then re tighten while off the ground . Is there play in the steering , worn or loose any thing ?

Dont use a after market sending unit bite the bullet and go to Nissan. you wont be sorry.

The same thing with my car . Turn on the key and parking lights came on . I never solved the problem before I removed the wire loomb . You might ask escanlon , send him a PM and state the problem . He is a guru on wireing.

Sounds to me that one or both carbs are not going back to idle when you let off the throttle. Take a close look at the choke cable adjustment , and check the fuel lines that connect the float bowls to the body of the carb for stiffness. They must be plyable for the carb to function properly. this can cause the choke to stick. do not use vacume line for these lines only fuel line. Z therapy has the hoses , parts store hose is too stiff. Just a couple of things to look at. Gary Hope this helps. This must be a pain in the butt in traffic.

Bambi is right , the '73 # 88 head has lower compression. Just because the engine plate says the HP numbers you cannot go by that. It depends on where and how the engine was rated and the numbers are vary different. Put the car on a dyno and you will get an idea of what the numbers really are. How many miles on the engine since an overhaul ? Spinning a 30yr + old engine to 6 grand can turn it into a gernade . You don't gain much after about 4500 on a stock L-24 any way.

You might give CArl Beck a PM . I am sure he would know .

So is what the problem is the engine starts and then stops running , is that right ? If this is the case there may be a problem with the switch on the run detent. This allowing the engine to start when the key is turned to the start position but when the key is released to the run the pump stops. The guy that was looking at the car is confused in that carbed engines will run without the pump going because they will run on the fuel in the float bowls of the carbs, Some are equiped with a oil pressure switch that allows current to flow to the pump AFTER oil pressure is there. Injecters need pressure from the get go. Hope this helps.

The looks of your car is depending on your tastes not mine or anyone elses. Get a catalog from Motorsports they have several air dams to choose from. I secound the motion get her running first unless there is major rust to contend with . If this is the case take care of that first in case the car turns into a parts car because of it. Louvers do save the interior from sun fadeing but again it is a matter of your likes or dislikes . Buying engine internal parts at this stage is a waist of money , these things need to be bought after you hone or bore the cylinders so you know what the measurements are. Be aware a rebuild will cost in the area of 2 grand if you do alot of the work yours self. If you are thinking to traiding in the L-24 block for one that is rebuilt, most rebuilders won't accept L-24 or L-26 blocks for cores.

There is far more to engine building than just adding carbs. This ballancing act as Allen said, is another reason the 4 barrel carb is not a reasonable mod. I experimented with a air craft carb on a superchaged large V-8 . We had it on a dyno on a engine stand and were trying water injection with this set up. Idle speed was excess of 2K and the engine diden't perform worth a damn. I went back to multi carbs. This was in the old days and I couldent afford fuel Injection , also it was not for a street engine. You can over carb an engine and it will only perform at near red line . I dont think this is what you are looking for. These little 6s work great on SUs . Just tune them. My 2 cts.

I am afraid that if the pin is damaged on the ends that you have not much choice but to take to a shop and have it pressed out. I have the pin puller and it wont work if the threads are damaged sorry. Being that this is the only one left to do there is no sence in shipping it to you . This puller saves the old pin and it can be reused however it requires the pin to have good threads . So any MEMBER that needs to use the puller let me know , just send me a email or a PM . Gary

VQ , Before you do any building of the L-24 ,check on what is allowed for the type of raceing you plan. I am not into IT or auto cross but I know they have regulations and limits what you can do and not do. If you are allowed by class to go with a 280 engine , the F-54s are reported to be the strongest and the last in the develoupment of the Zs inline engines. '79---'83ZXs. The '73 has a L-24 and it is a good block the head is a 88 but is a low compression verson of the head and has soft valve seats and small valves. There is a web site with tons of good info geocities.com/zgarage.2001/engine.html have a look and there is much of the information that you are looking for . For one thing if you have flat top carbs , get rid of them and get some round top SUs. Gary

NO DONT TIGHTEN IT. If you tighten the nut it will cause the bearings to heat and you will burn up them both. Tighten the nut a little tighter than finger tight, spin the wheel then check for loosness by grasping the tire front and rear and see if you can feel any loosness at all . What you want is to have no loosness but hardly any load from the nut pushing on the bearings. You see the bearings are set on angle and act like wedges , if tightened too tight it will add load and cause heat and will both wear them out and burn them out. If there is loosenes it can cause the weel to shimmy , drives like a wheel out of ballance at speed. Hope this helps , Gary

Do you mean 24 7 ? Has the wireing been modified or have you looked to see if the factory connections were used. I am asking this because my '73Z the pump would run anytime the key was turned and would continue to run if the head lights were on even if I turned the key to off position and the engine continued to run . My wireing has been compromised and I am in the process of replacing the whole wireing in the car. I am going to connect a pressure switch at the oil pressure sending unit and it will activate the fuel pump relay when there is 7 psi. available at the local parts store. Gary

I hope you dident disconnect the pvc valve ! It is vary much needed . The vent in the valve cover is a must as well. The little filters are good looking though. As far as inhaling the engine bay air , I bet if you ran a unrestricted large air line to the outside , and put the car on a dyno then did the same with the set up you have you would find vary little difference if any. Same with running the two filters verses the stock one with a K & N . If you were in compitition ,running at red line or near it , that's another matter , but for a daily driver I don't think so.

Looks like a $500. car. If the tires are good.