beandip

In Other Words I Don't Know .

Some times when the diaphram fails it pumps fuel into the crankcase. Be sure and check the oil !! Go electric, look for a RX-7 in the boneyard '79 or '80 any of them just as long as they were NA and not injected. They work just fine and at the riight pressure. Your 240 is already wired for it. Gary

I especially liked the definition of torque and the hard on. The person that started the thread had to be kidding or vary stupid.

The method works. The city of Portland uses it to remove the painted lines in the street , takes off the paint and no effect on the assfault. I personally would not do the body to strip all the paint. If you remove everything you will just need to reapply and you are causing a hell of a lot of unnecessary work. I sandblasted the rust on the floors and battery area . And also the front suspension. before you strip the body do some research , you will be glad you did. Send a email to escanlon , he has painted several Zs.

wkarns used it and he liked the fact that he dident need to use the mariene clean and metal ready and that you could top coat over it . I dont know how well it seals the rust compaired to the POR15 . I think Z Tharpy sell it. There are several members and others I have talked to and seen the results of POR so rather than try a unknown product I have used POR . Gary

87 octane is $2.08 at the cheepest station here in Portland and I just bought some accross the river in Washington for $1.98

Ed , I am going with the brown bread as well. And am doing the same areas also. Mike G did his 240 with it also and he said that the roll of 70sq ' will just about do it all. I don't think he did the roof or inside the doors . Scanlon used a similar product on his car but it is heaver I think but not foil backed. His doors sound like a L exis . His Z is nice and quiet , however his exhost is quiet aslo. . I think it was called Dinomat or some thing like that , it came in 12'' X 12'' squares. My thoughts are to use the bread in the hatch floor area and firewall as well as the spair tire well and the roof and then as far as the roll would cover and then finish with the Dinomatt if needed. I contacted B-Quiet almost 2 yrs ago and now I can't remember what the cost for the bread is. Mike posted a picture of his car right after he did the installation , it might have been an email to me I cant recall but it looked real good. Gary

I recently replaced one side of the pan and repaired the other . I bought my floor pans from Zedd Findings as they are the vary best in my openion. The passanger side of my Z was a real mess and beyound repairing in my view . It could have been treated and the POR systime used but it would have been a mickey mouse repair. I cut it all out and fitted in a new floor pan. Took the car to a certified welder and he TIG welded it in place . On the driver side there were holes like you show , one the size of a quarter and a couple smaller ones . Those I cut them out and the welder put in patches 3'' to 4'' long and 1 1/2 wide three total. there was an area that had some swis-cheese looking rusted out about the size of a dollor bill. This after using the sand blaster and all. Her I did as escanlon did and used the matting , I followed with using the POR to treat all exposed metal both on the up side and under the car. I also shot the POR into all the hidden spaces through out the whole car , a rolling shell at this time. I have found the repair to be vary strong and have no worries in this area . POR is vary vary tough stuff but flexable enough to allow movement and not crack just like the origional pannel. Gary As escanlon stated rust repair is not cheep , my repair all totaled was close to $900.00 and would have been $1100. + if the whole thing was replaced. I believe my fix is as strong as origional . Gary

I don't want to own up to the cost of my project really because some one might post it to my wife's PC. . I am one of the oldest members here,in years 65, and I do almost all my own work. I bought the '73 for $500.00 and drove it home . Barely. After a complete tune up the car worked great . I found rust under the Batt. just surface and the pass floor was shot. I had no Idea what to look at when I bought the car. I did the complete brake rebuild and '79ZX ignition and drove the car as is for 2 yrs. I have sence reduced the car to a rolling shell and am about to repaint . I have spent about $750.00 on the floor and rust repair . I am figuring the paint to be about 600.00 for materials counting primer and sand paper and such . Misc. gaskets and parts $300. I rebuilt the brakes with new rotors $150. new ujoints $100. Diff. R-200 $100. Replaced the engine with built '82ZX /w cam and head work. used $500. I still need seat covers another $200. My mags are fine but tires will be about $200. The POR for the car including everything was about $275This is off the top of my head but it comes to about $3700. and I have been working on this labor of love for about 2yrs , free labor. But have enjoyed every secound of it. I have spent $ on extra carbs and fenders ,bumpers and such not figured in. escanlon has helped me greatly with the body and paint . I know there are other things that have not listed but this is a rough accounting . Gary

Make mine a budwiser and a bag of pretzels and you are on !

I dont think brake cable will work , because it is cable and not single wire and will flex. Try the cycle shop. Just for giggles , to lube the '' cables'' disconnect the cables and use a length of plastic straw ,like form a soft drink, and tape it onto the end of the sheath of the cable and fasten it in a upward direction and put some oil in the straw and let it sit over night if you can . The oil will drain down and lube the entire length of the cable.

I know of northwestz and am on the emailing list. The meetings are in salem and most of the activities center around that area . Frankly they are to far form Ptln. for me to be active in there club. I don't want to commit to a club that I cannot support fully. I have met several of the members and they have a vary good group and the club is active. Gary

My '73s windshield had a milky look around the edge and was told that it is moisture that is getting in between the sheets of glass. I have had this happen before on old cars. Once this starts there is no cure. Gary

I have a '73 and I think that your cars battery area is vary similar to mine. I removed the tray with a spot weld cutter . However a drill will work to drill through partially , and remove the tray , cut away the offending rusted metal and have sheet metal welded back in. At the same time you can have any holes that went through from the tray removal filled. I bolted the tray back in after treating all the bare metal and painting with POR inside and out. This way I was able to keep por inbetween the tray and the inner fender. Or you can of course have the tray welded in place. Gary

This is a new one on me . Where are you located in Ptln? How many members and what is the focus of the club ? Gary

Freerider, It all depends on what you want the car for. The 240 is a basic sports car no frills bells or whistles. They handel but ride stiff. The 280s are heaver but still perform vary well. The 280 is fuel injected and there fore more complicated . The 280z look like the 240 up till the '79 The 240Z is more collectable only if kept stock and because they were the first also because there are fewer of them . The 260Z gets a bum rap as well as the '73 because of poor carberation . If earlier SU "round topps " are subistuted the car is fine. The difference in weight is only a couple of hundred pounds, mostly emissions and bumpers. When looking at a Z to buy, look closely for rust , the one most costly item to repair is rust. It results in body rot. Gary

I think it was about 135 HP . But I cant remember weather it was measured at the crank or the rear wheels.

bubble, you started out with a post that was quite intense. This is not zcar we are serious and not a bunch of children . I do welcome you to the club and I hope you find that we are a wealth of information. The low compression is going to cost you HP no doubt , unless you go turbo. As was stated before flat top pistons would have been a better option. You should still enjoy an increase in power. Look to going with flat topped pistons in the future. m 3cts

Stright ans. you will need to sand the whole car down and repaint. There is no way on God's green earth , that you will be able to remove the top coat with out destroying the origional top coat. From what you said about pealing . All the top coat must be removed no doubt about it. Sorry ! Not all the origional paint will necessarly need to be removed but it cannot be saved as a finish. If you like the orange then repaint the car the color of the engine bay. This will save a hell of a lot of work. All the best . gary

I used the POR but only on the underside and hidden area not exposed or to be painted finish color. Read the information on the application of POR and follow to the letter . If you dont , don't bother with it as it will likely peal off. I sanded the exterior and preped for paint , removed all rust and scuffed the painted surfaces that were left. Washed all surfaces with wax and grease remover then shot with epoxy primer . Before sanding primer was applied the whole car was scuffed again and degreased , car had set for a few days and the epoxy primer had glazed. After this the sanding primer was applied. This is how I protected and prepaired the car. I had shot the epoxy primer on the jambs edges of the front fenders , off the car , and the same with the doors and head light parts , and hood, just loosely. Reinstalled the doors and fenders and such before the sanding primer was applied . I am going to remove the doors and hood and front fenders after the sanding is finished so the color can be shot in these areas and the engine bay and under side of the hood can be painted . I am removing the front fenders when I install the engine and trans. Just to be safe . I paid $31.00 a QT for POR . I did this all with 3 qts.

I used the POR but only on the underside and hidden area not exposed or to be painted finish color. Read the information on the application of POR and follow to the letter . If you dont , don't bother with it as it will likely peal off. I sanded the exterior and preped for paint , removed all rust and scuffed the painted surfaces that were left. Washed all surfaces with wax and grease remover then shot with epoxy primer . Before sanding primer was applied the whole car was scuffed again and degreased , car had set for a few days and the epoxy primer had glazed. After this the sanding primer was applied. This is how I protected and prepaired the car. I had shot the epoxy primer on the jambs edges of the front fenders , off the car , and the same with the doors and head light parts , and hood, just loosely. Reinstalled the doors and fenders and such before the sanding primer was applied . I am going to remove the doors and hood and front fenders after the sanding is finished so the color can be shot in these areas and the engine bay and under side of the hood can be painted . I am removing the front fenders when I install the engine and trans. Just to be safe .

Yes , I painted POR on both the inner fender and the inside of the front fender , the same for the head light buckets and surrounds. I shot POR inside the rockers and inside the doors and rear hatch and doglegs as well as the rockers and all other surfaces that are not exposed like down in the cowl and the back of the cowl cover. Just dont get it on the outer surfaces or where you are going to want color when you go to paint. I did some surface rust repair in the battery area and used por there also so I shot the engine bay with ticoat primer so the color coat would stick when painted. While I was at it I primed the cowl with ticoat also.