beandip

MRIZ , this is the same stuff I am using . Good luck.

I just went over my car with the D A and am geting it ready to shoot . I sanded off any and all rust found and am using epoxy primer OMNI MP 170 , it's a self etching primer. $50.00 a gal. and I will follow it up with a med. fill primer . I am not shooting over any rust just clean sheetmatal and what is left of the origional primer and paint that was good. my 2cts

Helps alot , thanks.

do you get the fumes inside the cabin of the car , or is it all outside ? If you are getting gas fumes inside the car , there coming from the hoses in back of the trim pannels under the hatch and to the rear of the passanger side rear wheel. I was having the problem of fumes inside mostly like stale varnish stink. Really smelled BAD. This is why I removed the evap. tank and most of the hoses . This tank systime was never used on the early cars shipped to the UK and Aus. only to us here . If you only smell the fumes when the tank has been filled , look to the vent lines for the problem. Do not use coolent line or vacuum line for replacement hoses. Nappa has a selection of sizes of fuel rated hose also a boat supply might have what is needed.

I have been using Turtle Wax 2001 on my vinyl with good results. Another member turned me on to it. I used it on the hot tub cover that is exposed to the weather 24 7 and it has been out in the weather for 2 years and looks like new. And thats sun , rain , snow the whole bit. It is covered with the same stuff the seats are done with. So far so good and it is not greasy nor does it attract dust like Armor all does. Works good on the rubber also.

I have been working on '' The Old Blister '' for , lets just say too long . Almost 2 yrs since I have driven her. Any way I am just finishing the body work and the car is ready for prime otherwise. There was rear end damage that was ''repaired'' by others in the past . Big time bondo users. I removed all the filler . escanlon pulled out the sheet metal back to shape as much as could be done with the help of a portapower and hard work. Now I am fitting the sheet metal surround that fits around the tail lights . My question is , what is the clearence between the surround and the body line accross the bottom ? I have a bout 1/8'' on the top and each end but more accross the bottom and before I start the finish sanding here I need to know what it should be. ES is out of town and there are no other Zs to look at in and arround here .This area was pulled out and reshaped and skim coated with filler but if I need to add to it now is the time. The car is a shell at present and I am getting antsy to start the reassembly . I will shoot the primer and start the sanding process as soon as I find out this info. Thanks Gary

Trojan, I was going to mention that there are other products on the market for rust repair other than POR . It is just that I have used POR my self and havent tried the others. I have heard good things about Rust Zero and Rust Bullet also. POR is sun sensitive and I think the others are not . Personally I would NOT use POR where the top coat of finish is going to be applied , the stuff is so darn hard and difficult to scuff and I think it would be a pain in the butt to prepair properly. I used it extensively on the engine bay but used there special primer that will bond to the POR . Regular primer or paint will peal off unless the surface is scuffed off , which is difficult. The QUESTION RAISED ABOUT THE HATCH NOT FITTING MAY BE TRUE , I am not sure on that one and I should not have said anything about it, sorry . I know the front fenders work and the doors dont. The hatch may not ether because of the top being longer on the 2+2 . Good call ALFADOG.

I will miss seeing him on the TV show. He was a definate one of a kind. It dosen't supprise me that he finally bought the farm this way , he was living on the edge for years. Sad to learn he is gone , BUT NOT FORGOTTEN .

Right on the money, one thing to add is to check the ground wire and as 240zman stated the connections at BOTH ends. This is vary basic but did you check for a loose fan belt ? This will cause the problem you are having to.

to repair the seal on the heater , I used the closed cell foam that is used to wrap glass ware for shipping . It comes on a roll and is about 3/16'' thick and it works vary well so far. It's been on over a year now.

Post the request on the suspention section . I am shure there is someone that knows differentials inside and out. Phred is an engine gurue, escanlon paint body and electrical ,2manyZ all the above. there are many many more. Just ask.

I stand corrected on the fender. The hatch should be a direct bolt on , same for the front fender. The drain for the cowl to prevent a future problem is to use a 1'' 45 degree PVC elbow and a section of vinyl hose that will fit over the out side of the PVC . selicone all in place and have the hose terminate at the opening at the bottom at the drain. This will provide a direct shute for the water and debris draining from the cowl. Do this on the other side as well. This will prevent the collection of debris in this area which is the beginning of the rocker frame rail .

Dont Bother

You have some serious problems in the dogleg and possably the rocker pannel. The blistering paint is rust that is coming through from the inside of the dogleg cavity and it looks like it extends in to the frame rail also. You most likely have a plugged drain there . To do the repair correctly the bad sheet metal needs to be cut out and new welded in. It vary likely has extended into the pannel that extends accross the back of the car behind the seat. There are severas layers of sheet metal that are spot welded together at that point that make sort of a frame member that holds the seat belt retractor and support for the diff. as it connects the trans tunnel. The rust around the windows look like just surface rust but it extends under the window gaskets . This rust can be treated by sanding it off and priming with a self etching primer and paint. Remember primer is porus and will let moisture pass throu so top coat with paint , dont leave it exposed to the weather. You can always sand off the repair and repaint when you do the rest of the car. I will send you a PM on what I used to treat the dogleg problem, running out of room here.

Rebuilding a diff. is not a easy job to tackle at any time . Personally I wouldent attempt it , and I do almost everything on my cars. When it comes to the trans and rear ends I defer to the pros. Setting the gear lash is ctitical. If you pull the diff your self and take to a shop and have them do it , that would keep the cost down . But if you are wanting the 390 gearing I would just go that route. You will end up spending the same amount in the long run at least, and this way your done . Just do the install. I cant remember , does the '76 have a R-200 allready? If not you will need the mustash , bad spelling, bar and its bolts , not sure about the half shafts, I used mine from my 180 and they worked fine. I wint with a 370 but would prefer the 390s . I dident find one and this one was $100.00 so I bought it. Good luck on both the storm and the Z. Gary

sto878, when you drained the oil was it full of chipps or did it look like metallic black paint ? Like 2many said to do any repair, the diff must be pulled. However if you are short on funds what you can co for a short time is to remove the back cover and clean out any chips or broken parts and just replace the cover with a new gasket and oil. At least you wont have loose parts flying around in side the diff. This should get you by for a while , untill you can find what you need. I had a roller bearing get inbetween the ring gear and the pinon while I was doing about 70 , this was in a hot rod '32 Ford I had. It felt like I had just been hit in the rear by a truck. Not a good thing.

another thought , there are fuel filters at the enlet to the floats , check this . They are unneeded toss them.

Wayne I tried the email address , no joy. Scrolled down over 70 sites still no joy. Gary

AxtelZ , I am with you 100% . I enjoy the contact with serious Z drivers that wish to share there knowledge. GAry

I saw those to. I don't think that they fit a Z , any way I dont want to store the things and besides I am satisfied with the brand I buy. Some things you can save $ on but oil and filters are not it.

I am nowhare near Dago , but if you have a Harbor Fright near you they have a good one on sale for $79.00 . I have one I bought from them and it is great . I split the cost with my son in law. 1 ton capacity

240zx , Question is the Mallory pump quiet ?

if the engine is cuting out at higher RPMs , look at the ignition first. Something is braking down. Do the easy things first , remove the dist cap and check the contacts for buildup on the ''contacts'' and clean them off. If you are still using a dist . with points , check them for pitting or deposits , either condition change them. They are plated and if burned or pitted it is a waist of time to try and save them. Always change the condenser when you change points. If the plug wires are old change them and get some 8mm silicone filled wires . Take a good look at the plugs and if there is any question on these change them . Use NGK plugs. I use BPR6ES nothing fancy and they work the best for me. The only thing left is the coil , they dont fail vary often but some times they will . Usually in hot weather. Some times if you look at the engine while it is running in total darkness you will see sparks from bad plug wires. They have to be really bad though. If your timing is set at 8 to 10 degrees BTDC , and there is no pinging heard under load you should be good there. my 3cts