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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/19/2020 in Posts

  1. Hey all, I found this today on the Internet and thought it would be good to link it here. ------- Read the rest here: https://www.instructables.com/Inexpensive-Garage-Lights-From-LED-Strips/
  2. Brothers from a different mother, I tell ya. I've gone through thirty pounds of the stuff in the past two months. It's really hard to get a good picture of the results, but I tried. Here's a handful of misc hardware. Before: I put the stuff in a wide mouth plastic container for a couple hours. When I first put the stuff in, it bubbles and becomes a little milky looking from all the tiny bubbles. I think that's the remaining yellow chromate and zinc plating being eaten off: And then after a couple hours. They aren't sparkling perfect, but are a whole lot better than when I started: Here's about the only good shot I have of before and after: I've got parts out for professional plating right now. Should be done soon.....
  3. Well, There's good news and bad news. The good news, Kathy was exposed to Covid-19 by another volunteer last week. She was tested yesterday and received the negative results back today. She'll be quarantining one more week. The bad news, There must be some kind of memory scrubber in the infrared thermometers the stores are using to check customers temperatures. I went to the store yesterday to pick up milk, and bread. I came home with beer, donuts.
  4. Won a trophy in a local car show... Was a nice day to get the Kenmeri out.
  5. Back in the summer there was a thread about a German product, a paste made of Citric acid and sawdust. I can't find it at the moment but I have been playing around with Citric acid for a couple months now and it has become my go to rust remover. I have found all the other acid rust removers have some drawbacks to them but Citric has the fewest so far. It is very inexpensive especially the industrial grade, I didn't want to purchase 50lbs until I knew it was worth it so bought 10lbs of food grade. 2 cups of dried powder in about a gallon of water makes a strong solution. Your results may vary depending on the hardness of your water but it should be easy to repeat these results. The test piece is from the KA24DE engine I'm using in the 510, 2 cups of Citric acid in a gallon of water, all I did was scrape the worst of the flaky rust off. The shop is cold, just above freezing, when the water is room temp in the summer rust removal happens a lot faster. If you splash some on your skin you just rinse it off, there is no drama, no burns. These next 2 pics are after 20hrs soaking, took it out of the bucket and scrubbed it with an old wire brush and rinsed. The last 2 pics are after an additional 24hrs. Now that might seem like a long time but I have lots of that so I'm good. Muriatic acid is 10x faster for sure but I have never found a way to completely neutralize it, the rust always comes back under the paint, so far that has hasn't happened with the Citric acid pieces.
  6. jonbill


    It has a similar shape to the distribution of votes in your recent election.
  7. you can buy brand new evap with a standard TVX, not cheap (300ish iirc) that is a drop in replacement. I would go with a parallel flow condenser (pick a genereric size that approximates the oe size and rig up some mount hardware) a SD709 and a generic drier, then use the new evap in an OE housing. Using the PF condenser should allow for good use of R134a vs R12. I got my new evap just in case my old one leaks or the tvx ever looses its charge. At that time I would just swap out the evap and stay with R12 since I have a good condenser (was a NOS unit). I prefer the old hitachi SWP types with the sump, they are heavy as a tank but cant argue with longevity (looks OE on mine and runs fine). But the SD709 is prob a better choice if you have the mounting bracket. It prob works better (quiet, light weight), but I always wonder about the quality of stuff like this. I think there maybe some other tweeks if you car did not come with AC as far as making it work, its all covered in the FSM on how to add. Often see the entire AC system for sale on eBay, a good way to get all the pieces then if the evap is bad just replace it with the new one I mentioned above.
  8. zKars

    Tool bin trim

    They are about 10 “ long, and 1/2” wide. The underside is a bit thinner than the top face. The slit is well under a 1/32 “ pretty close to a tight fit on the sheet metal. The bend is formed by cutting out a pie wedge and re-gluing or so it seems. There is a distinct cut there.
  9. Another day, another lesson learned. Had the dash apart trying to figure out the lack of rpm signal. Turns out I’m just trying to send a digital signal to an analog gauge. Ordered a signal transformer that converts the nice square 5v signal from Haltech into a psychotic voltage spike like the coils used to send to the tach. Then tested my temp gauge and discovered I have a dead sensor in the thermostat. Gauge is good. Buttoned up the dash for the 562nd time. Life is good.
  10. Heat it up, put it between two 3/4" sheets of plywood, then park your Z on it for a week. 😉 Time and temp will flatten it as well!
  11. Small project completed tonight, rebuilding the rear brake cylinders and rear struts. Couple quick shots of the completed struts with hardware and shoes. I'll post some more in depth pictures of the entire assemblies before and after.
  12. Try cleaning the silicone off of the weatherstripping using isopropyl alcohol. Silicone is used as a release agent when making rubber products, and adhesives won't stick to it.
  13. Well, that's one thing I didn't mention. I did take it back and explained the symptoms. They adjusted the slave cylinder rod at the clutch fork and changed the transmission fluid and drove it around the parking lot a bit and claimed it was better. Yeah, that doesn't give me the warm fuzzies either. Anyway, I've been communicating directly with the service manager and he told me point blank that if it isn't better after a couple of weeks that they will drop the transmission again and replace that bushing. What worries me is that the master tech might be out of his depth on this. He looks like he is 25 years old. To be fair, now that I am in my mid 40's I think anybody under 30 looks like they are in high school...lol.
  14. Haha!! Guilty as charged! So I'll have to install some data collection software somewhere to hook up to the gauge. It certainly won't be to my phone...
  15. By political affiliation 😉
  16. Considering it's age and the attempts you made to bring it back to original appearance, I think you've done a great job. Looks very nice, and the small imperfections will be hardly noticed, unless you point them out. Good job! 👍
  17. Well, everything I spent money on to get this fixed ended up being a waste. The roadster handle is totally different (if anyone needs one I have one to sell). The ABS cement didn’t really adhere well and came off during cleanup because it was much softer than the actual handle. The plastic restorer didn’t do the job because it wasn’t faded so much as much as it was cracked. What I thought was texture was the top layer of the plastic splitting (imagine a shattered windshield). In the end, sandpaper ended up doing the trick. I started with 800 dry and stopped with 5000 wet.
  18. Contact Steve at 240rubberparts.com. He is currently out of stock on one style set but might be able to give you a date for availability. All of his products are absolutely top grade quality! https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4423037
  19. Chris, I'd be careful using Acid of Citrus:
  20. Racer X


    The stretch of highway from Denver to Fort Collins is busy, and crazy. I passed through there a few hundred times during my short stint as a flatbed truck driver. Saw plenty of weird things, like this guy who was so eager to get out on the lake he decided to launch his boat early. Guess This Isn't The Boat Launch by Racer, on Flickr
  21. The HVAC panel is made by silkscreening on the back of thin transparent film and then that thin film was laminated to a thicker transparent plastic sheet for support and contour (it's a little rounded profile, right?). On the thin film (.020 ish) they silkscreen the black outline first, then the white to highlight the white lettering, then the red and blue to highlight the remainder. Four screen passes total. And they probably started with a matt finish transparent material to get the flat front. And then after all the silk screening was done, they glued the flimsy thin sheet to the thicker acrylic material. They use the same silk screening process for making membrane keyboard overlays. Here's a couple pics of a HVAC nameplate. Front side: Back side:
  22. Thanks David, I sent you the Datsun Comp Distributor today.
  23. My goto electric pump is this one https://www.facet-purolator.com/gold-flo/
  24. Got the hood and valence installed. Also installed the radio and heater panel along with all of their respective connections. Now just a few interior items to finish up and she's just about done. The lead time on interior parts has been pretty bad due to Covid.
  25. Does it do it if you are parked and press the brakes? My suspicion would be blown brake booster,
  26. NippI'ma do a photo dump for now starting from the rear. This car is in a cocoon and of course the battery was dead so I had to get down in there. I can answer questions when this K4 kicks in. The 3 hinges are riveted on the foward peice and phillips head screws on the rear section. Those tool bins are not accessible on my raised deck 280 like my 240. You can see them under the board but I had to unscrew the cargo straps to lift the board to photograph them. There's a long piece of chrome trim that holds the carpet down above those bins.
  27. Okay @Zed Head this is blatant sarcasm. No brains required. It's pretty funny. https://www.tmz.com/videos/2020-11-21-112120-brian-williams-4888195/
  28. OK, really really last one this time. My theory is that your drill hole is too close to the bumper mounting flange and because of the way the mono-tube shock works you're trying to force oil through a tiny orifice and it just takes time. I think you have two choices: 1) Drill another hole further back. 2) Push the shock in and hold it there for enough time for the pressure to bleed off. This is a pic with the shock cut open. If you look closely down into the tube, you'll see a very small hole in the center of the piece at the bottom. I'm thinking you've got a mix of gas and oil in the shock tube and when you push the shock in, it compresses the gas, but not the oil. If you compress it and wait long enough, that pressure should eventually equalize? Shock cut open showing the orifice that separates the two chambers of the mono-tube design:
  29. This resurrection project was supposedly "RAN WHEN PARKED". The problem was the park. The paperwork trail looks like it was badly parked for about 15 years. Almost 100% complete original, no parts missing except for a center cap on one of the wheel covers. The head gasket looked good, no signs of leakage or blown areas; All of the valve train was intact but rusty from poor storage. I am going to assume it did run until parked and the valve train components all look functional. If and when we get this project running it will not be driven hard so reusing the OEM valve train parts I think will be safe. The valves are currently in the soak tank to clean off the carbon deposits. The valve seats have been cut at our local machine shop and I am going to lap in the valves and see what the valve faces look like after a coarse and fine lapping compound procedure. Our machine shop said the guides measured up fine and looking at the valves, the stems look very clean. All of the valves came out easily when I disassembled the head. The camshaft was seized on bearings # 1 & #2 but some BLASTER soaking and gentle persuasion got those freed up. I will try the budget cylinder head route and do the lapping and assembly myself and continue the cleaning of the camshaft which will take some time. Who knows what the specified limit may be. Lots of repair manuals leave you guessing on some specs. Hopefully they are not super critical limits. Thanks again for all the helpful input, John-Lugoff, SC.
  30. I filed down the welds at the bottom. Problem solved.
  31. zKars

    Tool bin trim

    Look under “edge trim” on McMaster Carr’s site https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/4052
  32. I recommend disconnecting the choke cables and throttle pedal linkage so there is no pressure on the SU linkages.
  33. I work with CAD Drawings and renderings daily in my work life and always wanted to learn how to draw them. When i realized i need those 240Z Tank rubber pieces redone and probably should make a nice drawing, that seemed like the perfect occasion to download FreeCAD and spend an hour on youtube watching beginners guide to CAD Drwaing. I'm used to electronis CAD programs so it's not completely new, allthough i've never designed something 3D. Until today. I got the hang for simple basics pretty fast and here i have my first design for the rubber piece: Of course this is something stupidly simle. but just perfect for a total newbie like me. And it will give my rubber-shop a better idea of what they have to make for me 🙂 So after all i'm pretty proud and i hope i can improve my skills in other occasions soon. at least i've got the idea about what the CAD Designers in my company do all day now 🙂
  34. Mine did that after I rebuilt the motor and put everything back together. I got the linkage flats beside the carbs in the wrong order. Shot up to 3K at start up. Here's a picture you can double check yours to. Good luck.
  35. How much are you going to share with the original owner?
  36. Thank you all for your interest in this remarkable car. I am super thrilled with the auction, but very sad to think my girl will be leaving home. I have enjoyed every minute of time I spent with her the last year and a half. This is a journey I will never forget - and it has nothing to do with the auction. It's about THIS car. A car that should not exist. A car that fought and won against the invasion of rust and corrosion as she sat in an uninsulated garage for 44 years. A car that was immune to the invasion of mice and other pests. A car that retained her youthful softness and flexibility in every piece of rubber and vinyl. A car that never lost her shine and glow in every body panel and piece of chrome. A car with a heart of fire and fuel that refused to give up. But more than anything else, she became MY car for a brief period of time. That is what I will always remember. That is the legacy of my car. Steve
  37. $140,000 hammer, congrats! Hope we see the buyer here too.
  38. Don't blame the whole community for one person's, mine, comments. , Grudge's scam. You still seem injured from getting scammed. I posted so that other people in the community could avoid the scam, supposedly the very reason that you posted. We're on the same side. Posts like yours pop up every now and then and they're very helpful. What I posted in response shows people how to avoid the same thing happening to them. Sorry that you ended up paying but I could only remedy that part of your problem by sending you money. And that wouldn't make sense.
  39. AK260


    Got my test results today! I’m clear, phew!!

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