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You're last post sort of hits on this. Many of the things you read about this cars condition are probably not recent. There are many cars I see now that I would try to restore that I would have never considered before. The combination of available reproduction panels and the increased interest and value in these cars makes the old "basket case" a viable project.

Correct. No mechanical agitation. I was told similar when I did some night classes on panel beating at my local technical college. Working with lead is quite fun with a wooden paddle and beeswax to stop the lead sticking to the paddle. You need to heat it until melting point then keep it warm as you spread it around before it returns to a solid material upon cooling down. Then use a metal file to shave it down and smooth off.

My money is on the red wire in the dizzy. Grounded.

That's a great drawing showing the ignition system. With the line showing the firewall in there, it does an excellent job of illustrating why you only need one wire on each end of the ballast resistor and why you don't connect directly from ballast and coil. Shows how the other connections are made inside the harness. Thanks for posting that!

Reading through several stories, blogs and after texting with a respected z connoisseur earlier this month …. I heard my “51” called all sorts of names….basket case, train wreck, rusty, good car for parts…. Stoked my curiosity to the point I had to blast at her with the dustless system…… Last year a friend of mine peeled back some layers of paint and bondo, revealing a patchwork of welds and repairs that was somewhat disappointing. I didn’t notice the wide “hips” on that early car as well……I have a pretty good eye for wide hips….. on zs. Did the roof, and rear quarters to hopefully not find that same patchwork of repairs….. not perfect, but it was the first z roof I’ve seen without filler. I’m happy with what was …. Or wasn’t exposed today!

@jalexquijano

So you're saying that NASA only uses the Imperial measuring system? You would be wrong.

You’ve made your point @dutchzcarguy. However, you guys “Don’t know your arse from a hole in the ground!” 😂 A Finn Struggling with English !!!.mov

Parts Manual shows that the PN changed as of Aug-1973. I wonder if this production date also marked the introduction of factory-installed air conditioning (as opposed to dealer-installed)? If hat was the case, the extra opening might have been added to provide a dedicated pass-through for AC-related lines and hoses.

Rust holes. Not enough.

There was a belgian that said he went to the SUN! I asked.. didn't you get burned? NO he said.. we went at night..

Fine crushed glass

Here we are 13 pages on this thread trying to figure out a wiring diagram.

I found the issue. It was the gauge. When I tried the new gauge the first time it must have not been plugged in fully. Thank you guys for the help. I really appreciate you helping a newbie.

Interesting question. I decided to turn AI loose to get an answer. Here's what I found: The Monroney sticker, also known as the window sticker, is a label required in the United States to be displayed in all new automobiles. It includes certain official information about the car, such as pricing, equipment, and fuel economy details1. But why didn’t Canada adopt a similar sticker system? Let’s explore: Historical Context: In 1955, Senator Almer Stillwell “Mike” Monroney chaired a subcommittee that investigated complaints from U.S. car dealerships about abusive treatment by manufacturers. Dealers could inflate the manufacturer’s suggested retail price, leaving buyers unaware of the actual cost and options1. To address this, Monroney sponsored the Automobile Information Disclosure Act of 1958, which mandated information disclosure for all new automobiles sold in the U.S. This act required the Monroney sticker to be displayed on new cars1. Canada’s Approach: Canada did not adopt the Monroney sticker system for several reasons: Regulatory Differences: Canada has its own regulatory framework for vehicle informationdisclosure. Instead of a single standardized sticker, Canadian provinces and territories have their own requirements for vehicle information, including pricing and safety features. Market Size: The Canadian automotive market is smaller than the U.S., which may have influenced the decision not to implement a nationwide sticker system. Industry Practices: Canadian dealerships and manufacturers may have relied on other methods to provide information to consumers, such as brochures, websites, and sales representatives. Consumer Awareness: Canadian consumers may have been more familiar with alternative sources of information, reducing the need for a standardized sticker. Canadian Vehicle Information: While Canada doesn’t have a Monroney sticker, pre-owned vehicles must have a Buyers Guide sticker as mandated by the Used Car Rule of the Federal Trade Commission. This decal informs buyers about warranties or indicates that the pre-owned car is being sold "as is". So: It looks, to me, like another example of how Canada and its bush league politicians have dropped the ball for decades as they've skirmished over inter-provincial trade issues. As Canadian citizens, we all end up as losers because of this (continuing) parochialism. It's possible that some of the provinces may have (or have had) a window-sticker rule in place -- but I doubt it. I worked for GM Canada CHQ (Canada Headquarters) from 2004 - 2010 as a product training specialist. I don't recall ever having to deal with window stickers for any of the new-stock vehicles that we used for dealer training programs carried out across the country. Prior to that, I worked for about ten years in a similar role in the USA for GM and Mercedes-Benz and the new-stock production vehicles used for training purposes always came with a Munroney sticker.

@ShawninvancouverThe biggest issue here is you need to be at the car and follow instructions which we have given. Secondly in the time you are not able to be there, Read, educate yourself on how the system works. I think you are looking for an easy fix and there aren’t any without gaining knowledge. Videos,Diagrams and a multitude of folks are trying to help, There are not any answers without real time measurements step by step. You’re going to end up going down a rabbit hole as we call it here on the forum. Study the FSM it’s the Bible for this car. I apologize if my response is somewhat strong but we are going round and round in circles.

Thanks for the very much appreciated compliments inline6. The valve cover and carb dome finishes are OEM. And Captain, I assume the “nits” were directed at my picture. The fuel pump, see attached pic, is indeed a NOS Nikki pump, and I also included a pic of the master cylinders. inline, not trying to hijack space as the work you have done on your car is truly amazing. AZ-240z

For the time being, I added a junction box to replace the old single fuse sub panel, and added 12AWG from there to the new sub panel, to one of the phases. I understand doing this is not to any code. I only have the few circuits running off it, until I get the 6AWG underground feed in place, then I'll properly wire the sub panel with the two phases and connect the 240 branch. Added a ground from the panel to the conduit used to supply the 120v supply Wiring to the 240 outlet above, waiting for the 10AWG individual wires, then I'll wire the receptacle added a GFCI receptacle & a regular on the load side, by the door, separate fused branch from the branches in the west addition and what will be on the south wall. I will continue that branch into the north wall when that addition happens All the conduit tidied up on this side now After that - the (Electric) power steering pump on the C30 is on the way out (130K miles) - making a nasty scream under load (cornering). Looking online, the FoMoCo part is pretty indestructible, except for the lower shaft bearing, which is not in an oil bath like the upper one. The unit is not intended to be serviced, so a Filter cutter is required to cleanly cut off the motor cap. after that, the reservoir is removed by stretching the Oetiker clamp, then the pump is removed, followed by a drive gear , c clip & washer - then the motor shaft can be tapped out of the upper bearing. bearing destruction New Timken bearing installed more to come

Hey inline6. Here are the clamps on my 1/71 series 1, and I’m pretty confident they are correct.

Having to shout squirrel every 30 minutes or so, when distracted by items not noticed before, or perceived body and fender support changes in production methods like this welded joint between ….some changes through the years…. Hls30-00051 first pair welding exhibits “Green car” Hls30-00740….”blue car” Hls30-03496…. “Primer” Hs30- 10324…..”red” quite a difference in weld patterns.

As an aside I read all 100+ comments in that BaT thread. Was really fascinating. I suspected that was TonyD stirring the pot. I also found it interesting that many commenters suggested that Japanese classics would never be worth what you put into them for restoration. I suspect if you had suggested that a 240Z would sell for $300k+ you would have been laughed out of the space. It was also interesting that nobody seemed to understand the uniquity of the very early cars. So much for the experts...

Agreed. I wasn't there when they designed it, but I don't see that soldered joint as "flexible". I'm thinking they needed to join two major assemblies in an area that is extremely visible. An area where spot welds would have been unsightly. Maybe they thought the solder joint would not only be strong enough, but it would be much easier to hide? Maybe they just couldn't come up with a way to do a spot weld there because of access? But who am I to say? I wasn't even there.

At the Atlanta Z-CON, Charles and I talked with Matsuo-San when that question came up. As I recall he said that joint was intended to flex. The consequence of a stiff C-pillar was the A-pillar flexing instead with the possibility of a windshield popping out. @Patcon What do you remember of this conversation?

More rust then anticipated under battery tray…

Quick Sunday post to hopefully legitimize and state with pictures of “matching numbers” or as I would say “all original 240z”…… Vin..00051 October 69 car Block L-24 2239 Engine casting # 9828B Deciphered as block born on date of August 28th 1969. Which is in line with what to be expected. I mention this because of some discussion over the years, on BAT, and on this site about this car being a legit matching numbers car. I can understand the concern and the reasons for the discussion. Posting this combination of pictures to hopefully dispel any conflicting thoughts…zz I do welcome any thoughts about this car in anyway shape or form.

Early hand throttle cable attachment under cowl spot weld pulled out. Drivers floor has a couple of rust areas, under seat as well…… more inspection needed from underneath to determine if new floors, or replacement of rotten areas. Firewall looks perfect Neat inscription/stamp “Speedo change” over passenger visor area on edge of headliner and proof that headliner had been dyed to black…. Originally a green/ tan car

Almost feels like cheating……

I believe the spare wheel well is now available as a reproduction panel. With that deep rusting I would replace it. Especially on a car that has the potential high value that this car could have. https://resurrectedclassics.com/products/datsun-240z-280z-spare-tire-well https://zcardepot.com/products/spare-tire-well-sheet-metal-replacement-240z-260z-280z-70-76#

This car is a lot better than I initially imagined. Very encouraging!

Many thanks to KATS for sharing years ago….

There is a proper name for the decipher……looking at the “white dot”, over or under letters of appropriate name…

Better picture of firewall vin stamp, proper inspection lid, and a small example of needed parts…… But my “part doner car” 740 is showing great potential. Red dot mirror, radio, console, perfect fuse box,and ashtray dash wiring harness!!!. Much needed parts for 51

There are 2 kinds of people in this world: Those who use the metric system, and those who went to the moon.