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https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/nikki-fuel-pump-rebuilt-kit-for-prince-ha30-fairlady-s30-skyline-gc10-with-l20-l24-engine?variant=39616128811117 This may work, but check to be positive!

My original Front grille was a bit bent in some areas, had rusted bolts and the original outer vertical brackets were beyond repair. I really tried my best to save it, but somehow the results never really fulfilled my expectations. The vertical Aluminum brackets were worn out, i wasn't able to find the long mounting bolts in an original look and it all felt very fragile and "loose" when assembled. So when i recently stumbled across the resurrected classics reproduction grille, i thought i'd give it a try. Today it arrived, so lets' have a closer look at it vs the OEM grille. On the first glimpse lit looks very good, down to all the small details. like the bends and shapes of the edges on the fins, down to the way it's assembled with that long bolt in the vertical brackets. Also those mounting brakets on the side are very close to the original ones: The main difference is that this one is made of all-steel, whil the original is made out of steel fins with aluminum vertical brackets. I didn't weight them, but holding them in the hands at the same time, i couldn't really feel any huge difference as the main weight is in the steel fins anyway. Another small difference is that the original outer mounting brackets are originally riveted to the vertical aluminum brackets, while here they are spotwelded (since here everything is from steel). It's of course not original, but it gives it a smoother look and more rigidity. Also note the square vs oval mounting hole of the bracket. As you may know, the grille came in different shapes over the years. I have this odd one where the top three fins are long (as usual) but then the 4th is extra-short, for whatever reasons, before the three regular short ones come. I think i will cut my resurrected grille with a dremel tool to get the original look. So far this seems to be a pretty solid alternative to the original damaged grille. I know there are other replicas, and used original ones to buy, but this looks like a good solution to me. The few grams in extra-weight and the minimal visual differences to the original will most probably never be spotted by anyone, while the improved rigidity and absence of rust definitely make up for it. Once the Car is back in my workshop, i have to test-fit it and see how it looks and fits and if i'll shorten that 4th fin.

Let me know if I can help you out. I have a large tub of bolts. Patina style.....

Those are way too shiny for Bruce.

@kcpope, I have one. PM where to send it too.

Your wheel bearngs are loose. Even though there is a somewhat complex process for setting tapered wheel bearing preload, you can get really close just by tightening them by hand. Pop that cap off and turn the nut until it's hand tight. Your aftermarket lugs are so long it wouldn't be a surprise if they were bottoming out in the nut. That rust and corrosion on the hub should not be there, where the nut is supposed to be clamping the wheel down. That's a sign that the wheel is not seating on the hub.

I set it aside to work on another day. Have to be in the mood to spend hours making little progress... which I don't feel like taking on often.

All L series blocks; EVERY Female M10 thread in the block is 1.5 pitch. That includes the transmission case as well. Starter bolts, clutch slave. The only “sort of” exception is the stud that mounts the alternator bracket, its 1.5 in the block, but the sticky-outty part is 1.25. All OTHER M10 threads (M and F) on the rest of the car are 1.25 pitch. Suspension and trans mount being most of them. oh and as for your needed bolts…..

Today marks a bit of a milestone: the 240Z frame / Body / Shell is more or less completed. The rollbar and all the accessories (optional passenger foot bar, etc.) are fitted. And all the panels are installed: The car got new floorpanes, new front inner fenders, rear quarters, rear inner and outer wheel wells, new frame rails, new inner and outer side steps, new roof, a complete new rear-end, new seat-rail mounts, and much more. Many small areas like alle the little brackets got fixed and rectified. I think i can say the car is as rust-free as possible. In the next few photos, you can find some details of how the rollcage was installed, as some were intersted how i installed it. I hope i got it right and close to the factory setup. Welds from the bottom side: Bolts from the other side (inside the inner rear wheel well): So now? They'll deliver the car back to my own workshop, so i can install all the locks, spacers, rubber-dampers, trim, etc. before it goes back for final gap-adjustment and to get the sideline into the doors, etc. Once the car is back in my place, i'll take a closer look at it and share the photos with you. On the first glimpse i'm very happy with their work. but there are still some areas to fine-tune and i'm sure we forgot some small things which i will figure out once the car is back in my place. Meanwhile the next project is already waiting at their shop. A one of four known-to-still-exist Bentley Airline. Something in a slightly different category with wood frame and all.

You could mill the remnants completely off of the tail shaft and replace it with a tubular piece with an interference fit. The mani concern would be if it fits inside the dustshield of the propeller shaft. Namerow had the same thought, almost exactly. I'm slow...but I drew a picture. It would be much stronger.

I think the bits of debris (sand) get onto the rubber roller and cause the scratches. It seems that all the door windows have scratches there. I dunno. Just guessing.

Max at Resurrection Classics spends a lot of time researching and finding manufacturers. I’ve been to his whse and walked me through the parts inventory and the stories along the way getting to this point.

Just a heads up, I think I remember some posts about aftermarket mechanical fuel pumps not working because the arm wasnt hitting the eccentric. Best to see if you can find an NOS one or if you have an original rebuild kits may still be around. I wish I could remember exactly what I went through to get an OEM rebuilt, but I recall having a large ziploc of parts and pieces. My car (72) does just fine with the mechanical only. A bit long to start after sitting, but no other issues.

That hardware style looks like what I'm dealing with here. Thick heads and that older style numbering font on them. And the patina is perfect as well. I forgot to double check the thread pitch yesterday. I'll try to do that today. Thanks!

Let me look around and see what I have.

It's a problem with allmost all modern weather stripping kits. Seals used to be softer in the past to. The door slamming thing is also because to hard and thick modern seals, i found a problem for that finding my own seal at an industrial supplier. Currently not a Z but my 70 mustang was painted last year, and the rear glass was out, they put a new seal but it's leaking everywhere when I wash it and even with rain. ordered a more expensive one, going to try again.

They are very small plastic push pins similar to the interior but much smaller. Still available from Nissan. Expensive meaning they are $4.71 each but you have to buy a pack of 10. p/n 79909-E4100 Send me a PM if you can’t buy just 2

Maybe glue a thick piece of rubber to the top to cushion the speed shift!