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Finally. The engine harness took me forever for a number of reason, but the main one being my earlier indecision on electric fans. I spent a ton of time trying to figure out where to put the relays (and the AC drier) in the car and how to protect them from the elements, only to realize that I am better off sticking with the mechanical fan for my purposes. Hear me out… 1. From what I’ve been able to find on the internet, the mechanical fan draws somewhere around 3,400 CFM at cruising RPM when below speeds that the fan clutch disengages and lets it freewheel. The best drawing electric setup I could find was two 12” High Output Spal fans that, together, would get me 3,740 CFM at optimal conditions. That’s great but they pulled 100 amps EACH when they start and 40 amps each when they run. The next best (strongest) option without the electrical consumption issue produced 3280 CFM. When I make changes I’m looking for better than stock. 2. If the mechanical fan really only saps 3-5 horsepower, then the simplicity, lower cost, and reduced wiring is more desirable than that gain. Yes I have a 100 amp alternator, but I don’t want to tax it more that I need to. 3. I am not a fan of the radiator shroud options for electrics. Anything that isn’t just a flat sheet reduces the clearance between the fan and the engine because the fans are all surface mounted. The mechanical fan protrudes into the old school shroud, and I can get a fiberglass replica at MSA. I did find an OEM metal one but it has been cut in two places and I think the guy wants too much for it. However, the reason I kept going back and forth was I do like that electric fans can pass more air over the radiator at a stand still than the mechanical one because they are governed by the engine temperature rather than the engine speed. I figure that I can always put a 1630 CFM pusher fan on the AC condenser if I start having issues later, or I can always change this later if I have issues. The engine harness is together, I have the connectors on the interior side, and now I can go on to adjusting the positions of zip ties that set up the the harness branches, which I hope to have done by a week from now. @billgtp, thanks for the photos! That was super helpful

Maybe put the map in a members only area or something? So the web crawlers can't access it...

I've made it to two ZCON's - Memphis and Austin (brutally hot experiences) , missed two that that we really wanted to attend - Toronto and Nashville. No doubt the convention dates are influenced by the availability of nearby track dates. But one will always have to understand exactly WHY those dates are available - perhaps because others have the good sense to avoid them???

Same error in the land of Zion too. And again, it sure would be nice to have the member map back.

You might want to chase those fine threads before you cover them over with foam and vinyl, locating the holes is hard enough but getting the right angle to catch the threads is where I have a hard time.

Actually, I was just talking to Wendy about following up on if Nooga G/Z wanted to host a get-together around Chattanooga due to its proximity to several cities in the Southeast. I have to check with the GZC president to put it back on his radar.

The body shop sent a couple of pictures. The rest of the car may be done this week. I don't know why, exactly, they aren't following my instructions. I mean, yeah, the instructions are many pages long, but specifically, I wanted them to spray the car all at once. And, I didn't want them to remove the headlight housings for painting. I think they know what they know... and don't want to depart from methods they think (or know) are best. I realize that they may not be equipped to spray the car all at once - paint can dry during the process and that can create its own problems. Anyway, I am sure it will look nice when it is done. I just hope it looks similar to how it looked when it was sprayed at the factory originally. That is one of my goals. I also found these and snapped them up the other day. I have original brake pads for the front, so it was nice to find these as well.

Now Atlanta wasn't hot in October. Austin and Memphis in July? That's another story. I remember getting out of my car on the front stretch of the track for the group photo. The front stretch of the track was also a drag strip. Between the heat and the rubber from the drag tires on that part of the track, my feet almost became permanently affixed to the track.

Thinking about it for another second though, there is one detail that bears mention... The "Fan is not in the OFF position" signal is built into the four speed switch that came with the A/C cars. Since your car did not come with A/C and has the three speed switch, you need that auxiliary aftermarket installed switch. Here's a couple pics of the four speed switch:

I'm not sure which was worse... Austin, Atlanta, or baking in a 130 degree Quonset hut in Memphis!!!?

Started messing with this tonight. It takes a second to get oriented on how the header piece needs to be to clip the wind lace over it. Once I get this clipped in and like it I will trim it back some. Then I'm gonna glue the foam to the metal. Then glue the header piece to the front flange...

You have to love the car and be willing to spend the $$ to bring it back for a second life. I think the key is what 87jm said about his experience with a very poor resto shop. I've been there and spent big dollars and years trying to correct what a certain So Calif shop did to my 280z. The real take away is find someone who has used a particular resto shop, is very satisfied, and use them. A good shop that loves Datsuns is worth everything. I hope you restore your car or sell it to someone who has the resources to restore it correctly. Good luck

@Carl Beck that makes sense, was just surprised to see such a standard 240Z break the speed records. Even the 2010 record breaker had the standard bodywork rather than the G nose.

There's this: https://resurrectedclassics.com/collections/emblems/240z I'll be dropping by their place next week if you want me to put eyes on them.

I believe that they caused vibrations only in a specific RPM range - AIR the test team driver said he needed to maintain a certain specific higher speed range long enough for the vibration to show up and get worse. Slower or faster was not a problem.

Hi Kats: As I understand it: GT Class is Grand Touring Sports Class “F” Engine Size is: 123 CID (2015.61cc) to 183 CID (2998.83 cc) 152.134 mph 1972 (L24 BRE Front Spook and Rear Spoiler) 166.037 mph 1976 (L28 G Nose with chin spoiler) 168.721 mph 1985 (308QV Ferrari) 172.974 mph 2010 (L28 - Rebello 3.0L - slight body rake) Between 152 mph and 166 mph two things changed. 1) L24 to L28 and 2) BRE/Spook/spoiler changed to G Nose. I have to think that the L28 accounted for the additional speed. A Wild Guess - about setting the Z on blocks: There could be a significant difference between the Wind Tunnel in Japan 1971 and the one used by HybridZ in 2008 was it? The Wind Tunnel in Japan may have had a limited number of sensors spaced in the floor - so the Z there was set on blocks - on the sensors. The Wind Tunnel used by HybridZ has sensors more easily movable / or more of them in the floor - so the tires could set directly on them.

@Kats the early record car had the spook front spoiler, faired in headlights and tail spoiler. What was even more remarkable it had the early rear diff setup with the forward mounting point and angled driveshafts. Considering these supposedly caused vibrations in the standard 240Z they obviously weren't a problem at 150mph!

Just looking at the 2 pictures Kats posted it looks to me like... With the way this G-nose is configured and with the raised hood center at the rear of the hood it looks like a venturi entrance in the nose to accelerate and condense the air entering the front of the car and the hood configuration should create a low-pressure area at the rear of the hood to provide suction for air exiting the engine bay.

Ah that reminds me, I went through the old receipts and found a rad shop's receipt... Well I looked at it again and it's for the fuel tank. I'll try to find a shop somewhere, good idea.

I am headed to a Z car show tomorrow morning. I'll see what I have that might help you out when I get home. There is a different one for the 240mm I bought my transmission from a 2+2 with the 240mm clutch. I used the collar from that car but bought a new 240mm clutch and aluminum flywheel. It works fine using the stock 240 master/slave and fork.

Now that I have the dash out & easier access to all the fuse/relay panel wiring, I'm going to revisit the interval relay. The other thing I disliked about the wipers is how high the arms & blades sit - when I'm driving the blades/arms interfere with seeing the nose of the car. So, I tried doglegging the stock arms to drop them - that did work to some extent, but not ideal. I also tried doglegging the arms off of a Volvo 240, that was better. Then a friend found arms intended for a 240 that are made in Japan (Trico, like the OEM), so the base mount is identical to the Datsun arm, however the blade attaches to an offset pin instead of to the arm directly. That allows the arms & blades to sit lower than the other options I've messed with. Much happier now Factory, doglegged, 18" blades (Bosch) 240 arm, doglegged (Trico) 240 arm (left) base comparison Just have to refinish them view of hood

Like a Gaggle? Hey Mr Greg! I woke up drunk but I'm getting better,

Never heard Buddy Guy play a Gibson, I think. What do you see @kats?

Take it to a radiator shop and have them flow test it for you. If it’s an old school shop they might be able to re-core it or rod it out. Problem might be elsewhere.

Hi Carl, Thank you for the data, I have never seen it before. I visited the link provided here, I saw they tested various kinds of body configurations. I am curious about the car stayed on the floor, Nissan engineers set the actual car on the block which makes the car sit higher than sitting on the floor. We know this car, Salt Flats Racer 240Z. Most of people never knew (including me) the G-Nose can be attached with the Europe front spoiler like this car. I think this car has perfect aero dynamic package available from Nissan back in 70's Except one thing, an undercover. If this car had an undercover on that day, it could have much faster top speed on the plaque. Nissan engineers tested a G-nose with a front spoiler in the thesis I showed here. More surprising for me is the car did 152 MPH in 1972 without G-nose. Kats

So I guess the member map is gone??