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Well, they mailed back my VIN tag and it looked like they guy that drilled out the rivets was having a bad day. I ended up ordering a new one from a guy on ebay that makes them. Just Dashes agreed it was not acceptable and is reimbursing me for a new VIN tag. I really dont mind when people make mistakes, as I make plenty. It's how we handle it. Just Dashes made it right, I like that.

I have purchased many parts from Z Car Depot over the last several years. Even during covid times parts listed on website are in stock and if order is placed in the morning it is shipped that day and received within 3 days to N.C. Emails with tracking are sent and parts arrive nicely packaged. Very happy with Z Car Depot service.

Never had any problem with them. Placed a few orders lately and they were very quick shipping and items were exactly what I want and needed. Covid and supply chain problems have made business very difficult for a lot of companies recently but I've never had any problems with Z Car Depot. I think it is unfair for people to unfairly malign them on this site before checking on all the facts and trying to sort the problem out privately. Just as we don't unfairly criticize people's cars here we should probably extend the same courtesy to the vendors that help keep our cars on the road. There are less and less of them as the years roll on.

Pretty pleased with most of the parts I have bought from zcardepot. The stuff I wasnt pleased with, they were responsive in returning or replacing them.

I've dug out some photos of 'TKS 33 SA 7924', an LHD car originally built as part of a batch for the 1972 RAC Rally (driven by Rauno Aaltonen and navigated by Paul Easter, running number 6, finishing 11th overall and 3rd in the Group 4 class) which went on to win the 1973 East African Safari Rally, driven by Shekhar Mehta and navigated by 'Lofty' Drews running number 1. It has a later evolution of the 'Teikoku Dempa' intercom with external headphone jack units (which would appear to give more freedom of movement and less stress on the jack plugs) but it still gives a Model No. of 'Y-4009' and with a Serial No. of '066'. Volume control appears to be conventional 'pot' type dial knob rather than the rotary (I don't know what to call it?!) dial on your Serial No. '014' unit. Interesting that there is a 52 unit difference between serial numbers for a roughly two year production gap. It was powered by a battery pack mounted behind the RH rollover bar mounting bracket, carrying two batteries (one connected, one spare) and press-on old battery radio style blue vinyl-covered connectors:

No, this isn't Goldie, it's my son's 280Z. His original color was 304 Gold Metallic. The original color of my 260Z was Brown Metallic which was oversprayed single stage orange... Nick's 280Z had been running with the L28ET for a couple of years when the above pic was taken. I bought the 260 frame in late 2007 and drove it for the first time in March of 2008. Humble beginnings.

Contact them with a return request for what parts you are unhappy with, you should be able to return the unused ones. I just got a couple of orders and returned something I didn't need. No hassle or problems. I think most companies are having to sell whatever parts they can get. With shortages in the past couple of years they have to sell available brands or be out of stock. Some of my friends at dealerships have had to do this. I hope you can get it resolved.

Nope.. he does not.. He bought a car i have seen before and IS a euro (Dutch) turbo zx! I know because i've seen the car years ago when i bought some parts from the man that had this car in the Netherlands.. it's now in Belgium. Thanks Zed, but no.. it's 100% a 280zx turbo and he didn't tell me but it must be a 1983 turbo as there was only in 1983 a turbo version in the Netherlands orig. imported and sold by the dealer. And folks.. i do know the difference between a turbo and a injector fan haha! 🤣 I told him he could go for a megasquirt system or maybe something from Jenvey, but i don't know if it's possible to use that on a turbo engine. He's just someone that asked me for parts but i don't have any for the turbo cars.. One thing is very clear.. there IS a lot of difference between the euro and USA version! 😫

Well without spending real time on it, that's about all I have from a distance. Have you found a shop willing to take on the work? In my experience with such devices, the amount of time/expense required to diagnose and fix something like that is very rarely worth the dollars. In this instance, it's a piece of history that is irreplaceable which makes the value indeterminate. And one of the problems is certainly going to be obsolete and unavailable parts. I already looked around on the interwebs for the output transistors (the four big ones bolted to the aluminum plate) and they are (not surprisingly) unavailable. PNP germanium in a TO-3 case. Riiiiiight. Haha! Send me a PM if you're still looking for a shop and want to chat. I could use some vapor blasting. Or some $$. Or a some of both.

The first real wash since the 90s. In the end, paint has a few areas of cracking but in decent shape. Will see how a wax will go to remove blemishes here and there. twicepipes arrive tomorow.

I need to find an Autobondsman to get my ZX out of bodywork jail. The donor car for the F54 engine that's currently in my car was being sold on Craigslist many years ago as a Turbo car. It was indeed not a turbo...the seller thought the injector cooler blower was a turbo. It happens.

I'm afraid he is probably looking for a very rare part unfortunately. He probably aught to look on the Japanese auction sites. I suspect the rest of the world got the Euro / JDM model

Front turn signal lamps arrived today. Very nice quality in my opinion. Rubber gaskets and the wiring looks great. Here are some pics. Now I just have to find the correct female plug fromVintage.

In the early days he was just a guy trying to start a business. It was small. Unfortunately for many small business owners they often try to get big and take on debt that has to the repaid. Give him a chance to respond. He used to be active on the site. You can find his name and comments in past posts. @zcardepot.com

Dutch? Does your friend have the original ecu? Pictures of the numbers on that would be helpful

Well, if you're going to be that way, try this page. https://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/YPC/ypc.html

Here's an old interesting thread about the Euro turbo. Apparently not widespread. Made for the "Autobonds". https://www.zcar.com/threads/euro-280zx-turbo.309088/

That's a 35 pin NA connector on a United States car. Maybe the ECCS system was only introduced for emissions purposes in the States. I don't see how ignition timing control would work though, since the ECCS controls that using the CAS in the distributor. Any chance that your friend has made the not uncommon mistake of confusing the injector cooling fan with a turbocharger? Maybe it's not a turbo car.

Figured it out and fixed. It was the thermostat control above the right knee to right of steering column. Also, talked to people at autoacsolutions who made AC unit and they have the thermostat units on hand for like $90.

Even in an Olde Timey A/C system, there's a sensor attached to the evaporator (cooling) coil and a microswitch or temperature control dial or lever. Just like in your newer automobile... The "knob" came with your new Vintage Air Refrigeration system, correct? You shouldn't need to replace it. You also need to be more specific - "the AC does cut off sometimes." What do you mean? It stops working entirely? The fan doesn't blow? You can tell that the compressor shuts down? Does it start cooling again at some point? To me, it sounds like the charge is not correct - for some people, it's more difficult to properly charge when the ambient temperature is low (like the "winter" months in Arizona when the ambient temps are in the 70's or 80's (but it still gets to 100 inside the car in the parking lot)).

Thanks @HS30-H for the period photos - I especially love the driver's expressions that were captured, even if perhaps only by happenstance. Fall looks almost amused at the state-of-the-art rally equipment, as if he feels as if he's been promoted to "flying-ace aviator". Aaltonen, in contrast, has a "Yeah... nah.." look of mild skepticism with the whole exercise.

You've addressed quite a few of the possible vibration issues but you didn't mention how old your tires are. You may have flat spots or out-of-round conditions not detected or cured by balancing, also possible slop in the steering rack. These cars are extremely sensitive to all of these issues. As to the rear end clunk, you likely have a failed differential mount. Get the car on a lift and see if you can move the front of the diffy up and down. Be cautious about getting a replacement solid mount that does not have the rubber insulator.