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RB positioned for fabricating engine and transmission mounts. For anyone who’s gone this route, you’ve probably dealt with the issue of the throttle body running into the inner fender, especially when using anything larger than stock. I’m using a Bosch DBW throttle body which puts me right up against the body. I wanted to avoid modifying the car to accommodate this, so the flange on the intake was cut reoriented, welded, and blended back to better fit the S30. Still tight, but enough room for the piping.

Given the wire sizes in the harness, 70A (alternator) and 30A (all others) would probably be appropriate. Blue Sea provides the fuse curves for their Maxi Fuses. https://www.bluesea.com/products/5143/MAXI_Fuse_-_80_Amp The curve is the same for each amperage as it's based upon percent of fuse rating.

A clear fuel filter before the fuel pump will be fine. No high pressure at that point in the system

A fusible link is designed to withstand an overcurrent for a short period of time before burning through where a fuse will blow very quickly at it's rating. They say that a fusable link is rated to about 4 gauges under the wiring it is protecting. Sizing a maxi fuse to compensate for the brief overshoot could result in a contant overload. Manufacturers do a lot of R&D when designing the wiringloom, but there probably is some room for "error" in the gauging of the wiring loom and the systems can be unbalanced these days with all the led lighting and lower current consuming accessories we can use. You could probably go under the original fusable link rating and not have any issues.

yeah the 5 speed. Well I searched the whole internet couldn't find anything, few synchros maybe big bucks, rest is all gone. I found a shop in Australia that has lots of spare parts for it. But then I found a second 71 A by real luck, from a z garage here in the netherlands. The guy sadly passed, I was just in time, he was clearing up his shop everything was for sale.

Ok, so I read through this whole forum and it sure seems like you have a disaster on your hands. I myself was in your position a few years ago and it honestly took up to a few months ago to really figure these EFI systems out. They are primitive, annoying, but man once you have toiled enough it's super easy to diagnose and fix. I will do my best here to help you, but often times these problems will just take persistence and time to figure out. Even the smallest hiccup in these systems can make the whole system seem like it is failing. I am going to assume your spark is good, and from what is sounds like, it is. Anyways. Make sure the distributor rotor is clean, and please please clean the spark plugs, it actually makes a huge difference. While you are chasing this problem continue to clean them regularly, even new ones can foul quick and can cause all types of poor running/misfires. Don't have the "it's fine" mentality, it will bite you in the arse, it has many times for me. I am not sure if your tank is rusty or not, but I recommend a clear fuel filter before the fuel pump. It will give that extra assurance that rust isn't ruining your fuel pump, as well as you can physically see how the fuel is moving in the system. Now the car runs with the pedal partially pushed. Now from what I have read it doesn't rev, just dies. Now it is possible that it is from running stupid rich, but I count this more than unlikely unless you see black smoke out the tailpipe. Which narrows things down a little bit. When the pedal is partially pushed, the engine vacuum is more centered on the AFM vane, thus opening the vane more (electrically sending a signal to add more fuel) thus making your engine run, however it sounds like it is running stupid lean if it won't rev/ start on it's own. My advice would to get a buddy to help you and get the car running. Now attempt to rev the car, but when you push the pedal further, and the same time have your friend push the AFM sweeper more (or completely) rich, This will allow the injectors to open more and rev. Another way (I did this, but wouldn't recommend) is to just loosen the AFM till its almost completely loose. This will allow it to significantly richen under throttle, but of course the motor still won't run right. Just kinda hints at the fact that the motor is running lean, injectors work, fuel system is fine, etc, if the engine revs with some help. Then we can do some real diagnosis. In my opinion this is what I would do. #1 I know it sucks, but either clean every single electrical connection in the engine bay, or replace it entirely. This may help you in the future for quick disconnecting electrical connections with quick disconnects. #2 do the test I mentioned. #3 I know you said your vacuum seemed fine at 15in/hg (which is low by the way) or so, but I really feel like this is the classic case of the elusive vacuum leak. My motor had your exact symptoms and it turned out to be a series of vacuum leaks. There are a lot of other possibilities, but I want you to focus on these things first. Judging by how old the motor looks, a vacuum leak wouldn't surprise me. I am no official mechanic, but I hope this helps. I don't think your issue is going to be anything crazy or out of the box.

71a 5 speed box? They are getting harder to find, but it's more the internal components that are tricky to source these days, things like synchros etc.. and to fix the gear lever slop is a bit of machine work etc.. to make they feel as new.

I have aftermarket belts from Wesco that are perfect for my car. I installed the Roadster Retractable belts years ago and am quite satisfied. The retractor is installed at the shoulder belt mount point above the quarter window. If you go with these, specify the 11" rigid sleeve for the buckle. No hardware kit is required and you can use your OE seatbelt bolts. https://www.wescoperformance.com

I just got an email from Just Dashes, they have my VIN tag and are mailing it back with some rivets. That was lucky.

Agreed. Never had any leaks or issues if it is BEHIND the fuel pump. I have a video of how little pressure the filter is actually under too. Just have to make sure the filter is made for suction. The clear filter helped me spot that the pickup tube inside the fuel tank had a hole in it. I could see bubbles collecting in the fuel filter instead of a laminar flow of gasoline. Would have been nearly impossible for my novice self to figure out without that hint.

I was just using the schematics of those relays to show the possibility. The web page has the option of setting your specifications. Just have to put the work in. https://www.boschautoparts.com/g/relays

If you break the Fuel Pump Control Relay in to two separate relays I think that you'll find that you can build the circuit easily with two common relays. The EFI relay is a very simple relay with one actuator controlling two circuits. You could also go to the fuel pump control section of the FSM and build your own circuit based on their pump control chart. Nissan just combined them for convenience. https://www.boschautoparts.com/g/relays =controlling

Just google Bosch 0 332 514 120 and you will find them for the Porche 912E, BMW's, Mercedes, Opels, Volvo, Peugeot etc. It will plugin and work perfectly.

You won't find a single relay to replace the EFI relay UNLESS you use a relay designed for the Bosch system. The nice thing is that you can still find the relays. Just look for the EFI relay on a Beetle. It's the same.

If it happens again, the needle valves of the carbs (are in the top of the fuel bowl) are sticking. clean them by spraying some carb cleaner into them.. if it happens more after that, replace these little needlevalves (watch out these can be 2 different ones for the front and rear carbs!) As the fuelbowls have air outlets, you can blow air into these needle valves without a problem.. then your sure they are open. Also were could you buy the new pump?

Thanks zspert! I spoke with Bruce at Ztherapy today and he confirmed they have them and they're $50. He also said I shouldn't worry about the small divot in my float because they're made of foam, not hollow as I assumed.

@CW240Z72…..A real pleasure watching your work……great job. Like an amazing big puzzle fitting together!

Looking good. I wish these engines had a cam chain, rather than a belt. Broken cam belts are so messy.

I took a quick look into this and I think the female contacts are Junior Timer (not JPT, just JT). Here's some pics and part numbers for you to dig around with. 825213-1 - This should be something close to the ECU mounted male tab connector: 827663-5 - This should be something close to the harness mounted female contact connector: And here's an example of the female junior timer contacts: I took a look at the harness I have here and it appears the contacts have a gap between the fingers, and this modification shows up in one of the catalogs as a "special version". Looks like this: If you need part numbers for junior timer contacts, let me know, but I suspect armed with the above, you should be able to easily turn up something that will work.

Update on the drivetrain for the build. Fairly long list and I’ll probably forget something. RB25DET S1 Bottom End: Custom S30 oil pan Nitto front drive and oil pump Ross crank pulley 87MM bore Wiseco pistons Manley Rods Cosworth head gasket ARP hardware where possible N1 water pump External Oil Cooler Block painted same factory L-series blue Top End: Supertech solid lifter conversion Tomei 270 Procams Tomei Cam Gears ARP hardware where possible Walton exhaust manifold PRP crank and trigger setup RB25 valve covers painted factory S30 graphite (taillight panel, grille, etc.) Garret HTA 3076 turbo built by Forced Performance Drivetrain (and chassis) will be ran off of a Haltech Nexus R5

Z Therapy has reproduced the floats and have done a very nice job of it.

Figured it out. Mr Gasket low PSI fuel pump could not push fuel. I bypassed it completely and routed fuel to the mechanical pump. starts like a champ now

mechanical pump works. Used a water bottle to draw in fuel. may bypass the electric fuel pump altogether IMG_7613.MOV

Jay Leno approved 😉

If you can be sure your car will NEVER, EVER get wet for any reason such as rain, car wash, or other situation, you can consider going without these boots. You are correct - they prevent water from getting into the hinge pocket in the roof section. Once water is in there you can be sure the rust worms will be hard at work! When replacing the boots, it is important to retain the metal plates that fit between the boot and the hinge. The plates prevent the boot from being distorted when the hinge bolts are tightened. The plates are NOT a separate P/N, they came to Nissan from the OE boot mfr. as part of an assembly. The plates are not offered by the companies now making the repro boots, must be reused from the owner's car or obtained from a donor vehicle.

Hard to answer that. Normally they put them there for good reason.

Seems logical. Our numbers are very close too.