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So last weekend I reshot the car. started with white More yellow And then more clear I got some trash on the car after my second coat of clear. So I stopped and tried to use some reducer to get it out. I got it out but messed up my basecoat. So I stopped for the day, very put out. I found a forum where someone said I could stack more clear if it was within 16 hours. So I got up early the next day and fixed the basecoat in a couple of areas and stacked more clear. This weekend I have been wet sanding cutting and buffing. I should have done it by Wednesday but as usual work got in the way. The roof should really be shinier than this but I messed by starting with 1000 grit paper. It's just too coarse no matter what the internet says! I called the paint man who shot Cody's goon and he suggested I sand the roof dry with a DA and some fine grit. So I used some 1500 paper. It fowls quickly but I think I'm gonna be able to salvage the roof. I thought I was gonna have to reclear the roof. I will try to post up a new 5 dollar bill pic tomorrow. Passenger quarter is done. I have the roof all sanded and the drivers quarter sanded and ready for buffing. Hopefully tomorrow it will all be glossy and I can move onto mechanicals. It's a shame that my phone doesn't make pictures that really show how slick it is

I've owned my '71 240Z (12/70 build, HLS30 16896) for about 15 years, but it has mostly been in storage. I'm starting the process to get it on the road as a safe driver so I can attend a few meets, etc.. I finally took the time to read through the bag of paperwork that came with my car and along with the original owners manual I discovered that my car was purchased in March of '71 at Morris Motors (changed to Morris Nissan and now known as Charleston Nissan) in Charleston, SC, by A US Naval Academy graduate who became a nuclear submarine captain and he had the Z shipped with him as his command changed. It was shipped to Scotland and Hawaii and finally, to Washington State where he was the Commanding Officer at the Bangor submarine base. As far as I can tell, he (or his widow) sold the car to an artist who lived in a small, central Washington community and then it was sold again to a couple here in Bellingham, WA who I ended up buying it from. I found it interesting that my car has travelled around the world and thought I'd start a thread for others who may be fortunate enough to know the history of their cars and may also have an interesting, unique story of the history of their cars.

I purchased my Z from an Air Force office who gave me an affidavit stating the car was bought new from Del Pranke Datsun in Gresham OR on 08-14-70 the car is stamped 6/70. The Officer bought it from the original owner in Nov 1972 and had it until I bought it June 2009, out of Camas WA. He has certified the car had 53,293 miles when he sold it to me, I drove it home to Centralia Wa where it has lived since. The odo is now 65K and I just added 224mi yesterday.

Pretty much done with buffing now. It looks pretty good especially for being shot in a dirty shop.

From the VIN’s I have collected, I have 12/70 starting at HLS30- 15361 and running though #18048. 01/71 starting at 18144 and ending at 20533, It would appear that the Metal Data Tags (Door, Engine and Dash) were produced first on an Addressograph type machine - where serial numbers were stamped sequentially, like the 17770, followed by 17771, 17772 etc.. Then the date the car was finished at the top was hand stamped with a metal number Punch Die (aka Metal Numbered Die) Addressograph/Graphotype Machine https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85f-H6Bc9BQ

I bought my '72 and got all the paperwork then realized I was the 3rd owner. A doctor bought it new then sold to his younger partner. His wife wrecked her Ford and partial payed with the 240. The body shop guy never titled it, never got it running and 10 plus years I rescued it from Ford hell. Now my garage queen awaits me whenever I have time. I'll give it to my favorite nephew which will wizz off my sister for choosing only him but we're good buddies, just alike aka "a little goofy" but loved by all.

Maybe this will help. My car is a 71 z. Lower left green wire is for turn signal which is R/W in the harness Lower right wire is reverse which is R/B in the harness Upper green is tail light all blacks are ground. Which is G/W in the harness. The other light is brake. However I installed another 1157 socket So I would have both of the top lights tail lights and brake lights. I also installed led bulbs.

Arne has a good thread on installing JDM lights.

@Patcon have you used a punch on the end of the counter shaft to make sure it’s all the way back? I gotta do this tomorrow, waiting on plastigauge.

I'm not sure where it might be, but it's not too difficult. You will need to get the car high enough to get under the back. If that means jackstands, I suggest you drain the tank as much as possible first. Otherwise, you'll have fuel spilling out. I advise you to get a replacement lock ring and o-ring before you attempt to do this. If the lock ring gets warped, it won't seal. The lock ring has 4 tabs on it. I have arrows by where you need to turn it to remove the ring. Remove the wires from the sending unit Some people will place a screwdriver against one of the tabs and strike the end of the screwdriver to turn the ring. If you are worried about sparks, you may want to use a brass drift instead. I fabricated my own tool out of angle iron to turn the ring. You could also carve notches for the tabs in a piece of 2 inch PVC to turn it, though the height of the tool has to be small to fit unless you're dropping the tank. Pull the ring off. Remove the sending unit and o-ring. Re-installation Check the ring for flatness. If it is not flat, replace it. Put the new o-ring on the sending unit Thread the float though the opening in the tank and line up the sending unit with the locating tab on the tank. Holding the sending unit so that it stays aligned with the locating tab, put the locking ring on, and turn the ring using the tabs until it locks into place.

So I did some rework on the car. The brown specks were pretty wide spread and very deep in the clear. I tried to sand them out but that made large dimples in the clear, So I had to redo the job You can see some of the dimpling in the glare of the light I also didn't like the joints in the door jambs so I added some more seam sealer there. Mask the joints off Run some seam sealer with a caulk gun Use a little lacquer thinner to smooth it down Then I masked off the problem areas and shot some high build primer Started blocking. You can still see the low spots

Some of the new content that was written for the show below. Thanks again to @HS30-H for editorial services and providing a few pictures.

https://youtu.be/wQeCq5PhUV8

Got under the ole car pulled on all sorts off stuff and everything was tight. Re torqued the front wheel bearings very precisely as per the manual (21.5ft/lbs) and then backed off 60 degrees. @Racer X that's what I mean by too loose or too tight. If you don't back off the nut after you torque it then it's too tight. Once I finished the job I put the wheels on and gave some pretty hard tugs. Noticed a little slop. Spent about 10 minutes finding the source of the slop, and it turns out the gland nut to the passenger front strut was super loose. Tightened it up and went for a test drive and sure enough the front steering wheel shaking is gone. Still fighting a vibration, but it is much smaller and most definitely from the rear. Pulling the driveshaft and making sure it's balanced good. Then I will go down the route of checking runout:) One step at a time.

While Nissan released all 1971 features at once on the “Late 1971 Model”; If you think about it - releasing a different model while retaining the same “Model Year” for 1971 isn’t the only time Nissan did that. For 1974 Nissan offered two different models of the 260Z here in the US. The original design 260Z based on the 240Z body and then later the 260Z based on the coming 1975 280Z body. We are told that the Fuel Injected L28E was delayed in development and/or in US Emissions Certification, while the new design body proceeded on schedule into production. The result was Nissan continuing to sell the L26 in the new body to meed emissions standards as a 1974 260Z So the 1975 280Z didn’t come on the market until after Jan. 1975.

My ZX was bought at University Datsun in Seattle by a man who at least went to one Blizzard of Oz concert judging by the tickets found under one of the seats. He divorced his wife in 2003, she ended up with the car, commuted to her work at a local grocery store until the rear wheel bearings made too much racket. She then parked it in a garage, over time piling boxes and old VHS tapes on it. I found it when I worked for an appliance installation company when we replaced her garage freezer. She sold it to me for $200. I drove it home that day. It wasn't happy about it.

I removed the baffle plate off of a 91 Mazda B2200 valve cover to clean and recondition the PCV system. Those have screws and RTV. I used the urethane sealant and it's still holding up after 20k miles or so.

I agree, It was something hard. That probably got harder over time. I wouldn't have a clue what I was use with similar properties. I figure something soft is better, especially if some were to get loose internally

Here is the list of 18 features that were all introduced on the "Late 1971 Model", beginning with VIN's HLS30 21001 and HS30 00501. The US Safety and Emissions standards had to be implemented on cars manufactured on or after the date (Month & Year) specified by law. http://zhome.com/History/New71LateP2.htm

The window sticker price breakdown from the dealership is my car's icing on the cake. When anyone understands the importance of that they are car people in my opinion. And it was $3,995 with the sports package, front and rear spoilers plus rocker stripes.

Hi Jim - My BAD... I must have got lost going back and forth on the spreedsheet - of course I have the Original Owner of #15320 listed as 12/70 - matter of fact checking more carefully - I have HLS30 15316 from BAT also as 12/70 DOM. (8 Sept. 2022).

The finish systems in use today don't spray well through a suction (cup on bottom) type spray gun. The materials are high solids, low solvent, and work optimally in a gravity gun (cup on top). For sure, the cheap spray guns on eVilBay are junk. A good Devilbiss gun will get the job done, I bought mine at the local auto body paint and supply house. I do still use my old Devilbiss suction gun, for ordinary lacquer based primer, and metal etching primer, but haven't sprayed topcoat through it for over 25 years.

Cars are bought, sold, registered and licensed based on their model year, not the date of manufacture.

The purpose isn't drama it's more about an understanding of what Nissan would consider a 1970 model versus a 1971 model. Way back then decisions were made about changes that they would make to the 1970 design, for the 1971 model year. Typically, flaws are removed for the new models, for example. Or, in the 70's, new emissions regulations had to be met, based on model year designation, as kats has shown above. You could also talk about "purity". A mid-1970 produced 1970 model might be more "pure" than a late year production. Maybe Nissan started introducing 1971 features before they had to. When was the last "pure" 1970 produced? Here's another feature I found in the Owner Manual. It might not even actually be a thing, I don't know. The shape of the keys. And the sun visor.

Carl, Here is an update for your list of the 12/70 cars. Regards, Jim

Nice. Take a picture of the connector that the sockets go to. Since it has lamp sockets, it's most likely just a matter of modifying the connector at the steering column, running the wire in the dash harness and body harness, and maybe changing the connectors at the taillights to work with the modifications. As I said before, since the harnesses are not likely in the car, the wire can be run and wrapped into the harnesses. No cutting, no slashing, no ring around the collar.

Lamp sockets

@kats Thanks so much for the offer. I will of course let you know if you can be of assistance. C

It might actually be beneficial to hear views from people like SpeedRoo, however half-baked they may be. Maybe we can help him straighten it out a little? "Faulty"? How many early L24 crankshafts failed in normal - road - use? The use for which they were designed? Why was the early L24 crankshaft designed and manufactured in the way that it was? You might think different, but I have a hunch that Nissan knew how to design and manufacture a crankshaft properly. We already know that there were problems meeting the required kerb weight and costing of the HLS30U variants (that costing due to an unusually low retail pricing target set by NMC USA) so where to pinch? Personally I'd say that whole subject is a lot less black and white than you want to paint it. And the story of BRE having "discovered" the counterweighting issue and given feedback "to Japan" and therefore solving the issue is for the birds. Happier, thanks (tee hee). You get the point though, right? Nissan - like any Japanese company - takes its home market very seriously. Sometimes people make it sound as though they only existed to feed the USA with cheap cars and trucks, but Nissan's aims were global. Hence we are talking here about a car they built to compete in a world championship European rally, a factor that was taken into account on the drawing board, indeed. On the contrary. Of course they thought it important. That's why NMC USA supported racing in the way it did. How would you have proposed they took part more directly? Factory-built race cars shipped from Japan to take part in local SCCA C-Production races in the different divisions? Or maybe setting up a satellite factory race shop in the USA (or maybe one for the East Coast and one for the West, maybe more...)? It becomes increasingly unlikely the more you think about it. No, the way they went about racing in the USA made perfect sense. Private race teams and private individual racers benefitting from national distributor support was the way to do it. Direct factory team presence would have been disruptive and counter-productive even if there was any possibility of it being logistically feasible, which there wasn't. For Japanese domestic racing and selected international events Nissan could of course take a more direct approach. The car we are discussing here is an example of that. As I've mentioned, Nissan was taking a world view for its activities. That's why it was in Australia before it was in the USA and Canada. That's why it was in Africa. That's why it was in Europe. This wasn't just about selling a few hundred thousand sports cars. I don't know why you find it so difficult to understand how important those 'Big Three' international events - the East African Safari Rally, the Rallye Monte Carlo and the RAC Rally - were to Nissan. It might be possible that one or two people got out of bed and went to work at Nissan Japan whilst dreaming of Bob Sharp winning Sunday's SCCA C-production race at Cumberland, but I somehow doubt it. The farmer in Angola didn't buy his little Datsun truck because he was swayed by the result of a race at Bridgehampton. That's not my view at all. However, there's certainly the occasional whiff of the opposite view from yourself here and there. This recent exchange was prompted by your reaction to the assertion that Nissan's international rallying activities are underappreciated in the USA but, ironically, your reaction serves to prove the point. Why would Nissan have to compete in a USA-based road rally event (not that there was one...) in order for people in the USA to take notice? Are you saying that results of the Safari, Monte and RAC are not of any interest or relevance in the USA? If so, maybe we need to check who is wearing those blinkers you mentioned? Personally, I'd like to give a little more benefit of the doubt. There has always been a hard core of world motorsports enthusiasts in the USA who know what's what, and it is reciprocated. This weekend the subject of this thread was on display at the show in Long Beach. I feel sure it will pique the interest and curiosity of many attendees. The owner is certainly dedicated to the task of helping us all to understand the car and its context more fully, and I am cheering him on with that.

I had a set too but sold then as they required more wires (i have a usa cal. 240z) .. I have saved me a French 240z rear lights set! They have no back up lights (white) and will not need me to ad a extra wire! (Upper part is red and lower part orange.. or visa-versa.. don't no..) I don't know if i ever start to restore my 240z (for the third.. for me, for the second time! haha..) but then there is the hazard switch also that messes things up.. I know that the american car has a 9 wire and the euro has a 3 wire switch.. so there is also a lot of wire changes due.. The brakes light is wired into the indicators and make things complicated.. I don't now which electronic diagram i have in my 240z service manual but there should be 2 different ones at least.. If someone has these.. the US and EU/Japanese, ones that would be nice to have in this topic.

Okay, so there is one place in the taillight harness you may have to cut wires unless you can source bulb sockets that work in the taillight sockets. (I just ordered a likely candidate, and I'll provide an update when I get my grubby paws on it.) Anyway, since the wiring harnesses are out, it wouldn't be a big deal to add a wire to the harness and wrap it to protect the wire. I've attached an example of how to do it on a 72. Turn Signal Modification for JDM Taillights.pdf

Is there not a more efficient way to add these tailights. I hate cutting on the harness!

Thanks Mark. I purchased 1/4-inch "scrim foam" after viewing the technique on sailrite.com. I've got the foam glued and stitched onto the leather and will be sewing the diagonals hopefully tomorrow. I like the burlap idea but the scrim foam saves a step.

You have a good hand for VIN poker. Three of a kind, lucky seven.

I have a friend in Rock Hill. She says it's fun to be a Gamecocks fan, 'cause she can chant, "Go Cocks!", repeatedly.

It also looks like they didn't rebuild the engine or transmission either. And yes, the end result did look good, considering the shop. Reminds me of a video I saw of Vietnamese guys squatting in mud, remanufacturing grey market tractors. They were tearing engines, gearcases and hydraulic systems down, freshening them up, bolting them back together, spraying a new layer of paint, crating them up and shipping them to the US.

Did some reading last night on paint for the rear light surround and grill. After a couple of hours of interesting threads, I decided to go with Duplicolor dark shadow gray. The cap looked a little lighter than I thought it should be, but I trusted the forum and went with it. Once I saw it on the parts it was like being back in the 70's. Very close to what I remember. Going to use a clear matte over it. I have decided its good to be a gamecock fan (even though my kids go/went to Clemson) as there is no need to watch the entire game. Its usually over by half time 🙂 and I can get back to the shop.

Average annual income in Indonesia is $837 so labor costs are way low and they make their equipment last. The shop reminds me of one near where I lived in the Philippines a very long time ago. They hand hammered Excalibur replicas on the chassis of your choice for very little money.

It's Indonesia! Relatively poor country. Working in flip flops. Using a paint gun that looks 20 years old! Props for how well it turned out. I struggle to get good results and I have 3 times the equipment they have

My car is a 7/70. #6521 and has a slightly different emissions decal. It also references the 1971 regulations. The interesting thing is that my car is a non-emissions model for the Canadian market and came without the emissions devices mentioned on the decal. Here is a picture from before I removed if during my current resto. Here's a link to a discussion on this subject. Might be a good place to continue this discussion.

How about a full respirator suit when shooting paint. Nothing like sacrificing workers' health! Keith

Of course one could simply buy one of my reproduction under hood decals and/or one of my door jamb ID plates and cause much havoc in the Z car world while providing much entertainment for dutchzcarguy. Perhaps someone already has done so!!

They didn’t remove the fenders until late in the process for one. Cleaning up the backside should be the first thing, before repairing and prepping the exterior. Same for the engine bay, interior, and the underside of the chassis. The very first order of business after stripping the chassis should have been the floor repairs, and other rust mitigation. Then begin the bodywork and prep for refinish. I also noticed they didn’t disassemble the struts before repainting them. They also didn’t show if the gas tank was refurbished.

One of those Hollywood snow-making machines would be appropriate at this point. Maybe sprinkle some ice cubes from a local convenience store? Good luck!

We arrived at JCCS Long Beach yesterday to monsoon conditions (LA-style, meaning constant drizzle, 90 degree temperatures, and 15MPH winds - oh, the horror!). It was just a bit too windy to set up the booth, and we didn't want to take a chance that all of our newly-made display posters would end up scattered across the show field by morning. Since the car has a number of holes in it from prior uses, we shoved it under the tent for the time being, as the forecasters promised a few good downpours during the night.The weather should be relatively rain-free today, so we're arriving at 6AM to set up, and should be ready by showtime. If there are any fans of the Z at the show today, I hope you come by and say hello. Here's an overview piece written by Ben Hsu. https://japanesenostalgiccar.com/1971-datsun-240z-rallye-monte-carlo-a-history-lost-now-found/

The dealer had already installed the BRE 1st generation "Spook" and rear spoiler on my car when I found it on the showroom floor. Years later the Spook was ripped off by some high water but I retrieved it and later gave it a full restoration.