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I got a eagle eye hunter alignment rack I had a slightly toe in on driver rear I’m gonna try and see if shifting some stuff able to correct toe. I’ve done it on other cars before shifting the subframe to correct camber and toe it will be interesting to see if I can do the same on the Z. If anyone needs alignments in San Diego I’m very good at them and got the best rack on the market

Hi , I have been unhappy with my 240Z’s bonnet. The top center edge was pointing down quite noticeably. I wanted it lifted up as we have seen it in original, un damaged bonnet. All I have seen old pictures show me beautiful, a bit far from the bumper than the both left and right corners. So , I did it by my self . It is a crazy thing , It was abrupt method. I used a jack with wood pieces to push the top center of the bonnet. Gradually and carefully lifted it up , I was so scare when I was doing it . It turned out quite nicely, I must say I am happy with it. I don’t see any crack or bumpy , shrink surface . I will do some bonnet hinges adjustments, also may require some head light case and fender adjustments . Please see the pictures ! Kats

Here's one of those Owner Manual things. Nissan defined one as 1970 and the other as 1971, apparently. Not arguing for the sake of arguing, just trying to solve a puzzle.

$27,000 was not enough.

Opted to focus on the car, so this isn’t in the Rusted Z Pub thread…

I'm not an expert on the issue, but my experience on the ZX distributors is as follows. There are two (three for Fed) "main" design differences in the 280Z and 280ZX distributors. 1. The 280Z Cal and Fed a 6 pronged star wheel would pass a single fixed magnetic sensor and induse a pulse to trigger the TIU. The Fed had dual fixed magnetic sensors. One sensor was retarded 7 degrees and the TIU used it during warm up phase. The magnetic sensor only gets one prong to induse a pulse. This gives a weak signal starting at 0.5 VAC at cranking and reaching somewhere around 8 to 12VAC above 3500rpm. Well 12 VAC was the best I could get out of three units in my dodgy test with a drill in a bench vice. 2. The 280ZX (non turbo) has a fixed magnetic ring with 6 prongs pointing inward and the rotor has a matching 6 pronged star wheel. When the rotor star aligns with the 6 fixed magnetic prongs it generates a magnetic pulse through the spool located under the magnetic ring. The voltage signal activates the TIU. Typical cranking voltage is 1.0 to 1.5 VAC and goes up to around 50volts as rpm increase. 3. Location of the TIU. The 280Z has an external bulky TIU located at the passengers kick panel. The 280ZX has a compact (matchbox) sized TIU mounted on the side of the distributor. The 280ZX is not the best location for the TIU. Heat is your enemy so lets mount the TIU between the radiator and the nr.1 exhaust manifold☹ Usefull info: If you are looking for parts. The pickup in the 280Z is the same as the early L20B (75-78) EI distributor. You can also use the L20B TIU LX507 or LX512, but on the 75 - 77 280Z you will need the TIU connector plug to connect it and replace the coil and ballast with a 12V version. The L20B after 78 had the matchbox TIU like the early 280ZX. It will work on the 280ZX distributor. Both types of distributor will trigger the GM 4-pin HEI module. The GM HEI requires a minimum of 0.3VAC to activate. Altough the 280Z has a poor (low) voltage pulse during cranking it will still be enough to trigger the HEI.

There is a mustache bar on eBay right now with brand new ones better jump on it was gonna buy it but after looking at mine we’re in great shape https://www.ebay.com/itm/265669468613?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=YmFO8ONHQg6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=5tQC030BQXm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

LOL.

Here's a good one. Ends tomorrow morning (West Coast). https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-239/

It is indeed a 71

I ordered one too.

That's bold Kats!

I got an inexpensive analog ammeter and used a potentiometer to simulate the fuel gauge sending unit. So per @Captain Obvious's suggestion, here's a video of the fuel gauge with an ammeter to demonstrate the operation of the voltage regulator.

Hi Kats, https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/specialist-cars/competition-cars/listing/3756694780 Thought you might like to see this. Looks like an HS30 with Blue / Blue paint and interior combination. This is only the second such HS30 I've come across in my years (now) of collecting HS30 data.

Yup:) Going to attack it on Sunday. As you know I just got the car rolling after two years of absolute peril, so putting it back on stands for what will likely be an extended period of time hurts the soul.

The headlight kit arrived in the noon mail today. Very nice. Came with instructions.

finally got around to testing the nubbins. They are close, not deep enough for the spring though

Your description sounds more like the bearing is not seating properly in the strut casting. The bearing is cokced. Or the "distance piece" is distorted which also would cause a cokced bearing. There are several surfaces you can examine and measure to find out what's not right. You'll have to take it apart though. When those 5 parts clamp together they basically form a solid tube though the hub. The two inner bearing races and the distance piece are the tube, and the flanges are the clamping surfaces. The outer races get pulled along by the balls and inner race.

I did not buy the Prince toolbox. I too am always on the look out for tools, however I concentrate on Standard (non-metric) tools that were originally included with my early Datsun projects. Keith

Did you but this tool box recently? I saw one a few months ago, but I did not bid on it. I have been collecting more tools also. Just bought a wooden handle screw driver.

Kats, Interesting your tool box is tan (bamboo), similar color to my Patrol box. There is also a gray color Prince box: Keith

From your description it is confusing about what is ‘bent’. Is this something you see? Can you post a picture of it? When not assembled, off the car, slide the companion flange onto the shaft. It should slide on all the way without resistance. The parts that fit inside the bearings is where there is an interference fit. Using anti seize on the splined portion is a good idea on assembly. It will aid disassembly later on. Finding a vibration can be difficult. As Mark mentioned, different parts of the drivetrain rotate at different speeds, and understanding this can help locate the source of the vibrations. You mentioned vibrations in the steering wheel. That suggests the vibrations are coming from the front of the car, not the rear. If you feel the vibrations in the seat, that suggests the vibrations are coming from the rear of the car. If you suspect the companion flange is bent, use a dial indicator and check for runout. It is an easy check, and the FSM should have a spec for it. Also check the runout on your wheels, halfshafts, driveshaft, differential pinion and output flanges. Be sure to closely examine the tires too, looking for damage, shifted belts or unusual bumps in the tread. Be sure the tires are properly inflated.

That’s why I suggested the LocTite 542. A drop or two of an anerobic thread sealant will seal without interfering with the electric ground path.

Hey @Zed Head just cause my car is green and slow, doesn't mean I am a turtle too. 😂 @ckurtz2 I answered your PM. I should be able to help you out.

Yes, if you put up more than let's say 1,5 rounds.. so just use a little not 3-5 rounds because that will isolate your sensor from ground. better use a drop of liquid loc-tite. You can use teflon (PTFE) tape but if the meter does not give any oilpressure you know you used to much tape 😉 !!

@Terrapin Z The turtle man has a lot of stuff. Worth an ask.

These are the best magazines to know about the works rally car for me. They contained the best interview for the depth of works rally car spoken by the general manager Mr. Namba and the team manager Mr.Wakabayashi. I am curious about were there any magazines available which described about Nissan works rally cars just like those Japanese publications outside of Japan ? If not , some one should interpret it because a lot of information there. I would like to try but will be a huge homework. Kats

I am seeing some prices coming down in real estate, salvage cars and cars in general. I think this reflects higher interest rates and lower demand. Almost 50k is still a good price for a Z car.

Thanks ! I have zero knowledge and zero experience for rally, but this speedometer makes me think it needs to be . For average speed , no need 240 km/h scale ? 180 km/h scale gives better read for accurate speed control for time keeping? Super cool car ! Kats