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The rubber bushings in your suspension and steering provide compliance - the ability to absorb shocks transmitted from the road. Going to polyurethane or similar materials eliminates the compliance benefit and allows road shocks to be carried directly into the body and steering wheel. That also allows a lot more noise into the cabin. Poly is great for a track car, not so much for a driver street car. And... yes your car has a steering rack. As for replacement shocks, KYB makes a great shock with stock-like qualities. Look up your suspension bushing part numbers on the online catalog and see if any are still available from your Nissan dealer. Then got to Rockauto and try to fill in the gaps. It is difficult to impossible to get OE rubber bushings for most steering racks - pretty much unicorns, so it is a good chance poly will be your only option there. If you come across any Beck-Arnley rubber bushings, grab them as they are an excellent product.

Brandon finished the 1987 Pathfinder. All original paint wet sanded and buffed. All new rubber and bumpers and grill painted. It came out better than new!

I was able to buy it new from Nissan a few months ago, complete with the chrome caps.

Fitment check on the passenger side floorboard and rockers..

I was able to place an order with jp-carparts for the 23T reverse idler 32282-E9000 ($45) shipping was 37$ so I added some rollerbearings as they are more expensive from within the USA (2x cost). It's going to take a month as its a built to order part..... good thing i pulled that L28ET from the junkyard.....

Fan Blade? This is a snippet from the next picture.

My money is on the series-one fan blades versus a heat shield.

Kinda looks like a fan blade on the radiator fan - odd pic.

Here is another one -that sold for a little more.. $71,500.00 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-83/

It must be new upholstery season. I've got the passenger seat out and have repainted the frame and side rails, rewebbed the bottom cushion support, made new clear plastic protectors to go between upholstery and metal side pieces, replaced the original foam cushion pads and upholstery and am almost ready to start putting it all back together. I discarded the jute. I also wondered about its original function and figured it was just a breathable filler that had more "give" than the actual foam cushion. Maybe part of the reason for the air vents in the seatback upholstery.

Here's a UK Z Club forum thread which gives a peep past the smoke and mirrors involved in TV shows of this nature: https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/salvage-hunters-classic-cars-280z.29319/ Presenter Drew Pritchard is something of a running joke over here, and this 'Salvage Hunters Classic Cars' series is a spin-off from his antiques & collectables-based 'Salvage Hunters' shows. He usually doesn't have the first clue what he's talking about, makes some inexplicable decisions (like the totally unnecessary metal 280Z emblem manufacture) and the cars often turn out to be All Fur Coat And No Knickers...

Good advice, but there is ZERO rust anywhere and it’ll never be driven in the rain.

Cool Pathfinder…..you NEVER see those anymore, I’ve spent a lot of time in junkyards there past few years and I haven’t seen one in there either. Nice little gem you have there.

In the link i see some pics with silver colored contacts.. just clean those with a cotton cleaning towel or something.. and some contactcleaner. Never use a file on these contacts! If the silver is damaged it's gone.. Also, if you see sort of BLACK soot on these contacts it's silveroxide and... you can leave it on! SILVEROXIDE IS almost as good as silver itself (if you don't believe this, take a (micro)- Ohmmeter and test the contacts! Just put some contactspray on them and if this takes of a little of that back stuff that's okay! EDIT: Just googled it and had to change it in: conduction of silveroxide is almost as good as silver .. There was long a myth that silveroxide was a better conductor than silver.. but it's slichtly worse. (still better than copper i think..) Also most times when silver oxidises you get silversulfide not oxide.. it lookes very dark brown.. Also "google" said that silveroxide is not made (!).... but it's a black layer.. (very contradicting this!) anyway.. clean it with some contactcleaner that's not to agressive, a clean silver contact should emerge!

Checked my timing today with a new timing light that shows RPM. 10 deg at 800 RPM, 35 deg at 2500 RPM. Seems like my mechanical and vacuum advance are working are designed.

I ask my nephew if he was a starter for his baseball team. He didn't know what that meant, said he was a player.

They rarely go bad just filing the contacts to shine again and making sure there's no spider webs in there. I had to bend the arm on mine when I first bought my '77 after reading this great write up with a lot of good photos. Thanks @240260280 https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html

Do you know what they call the guy who graduates last in his medical class? Doctor... 😉 No offense to conedoger 🙂

Looks like a nice instrument panel. No cracks and unmolested. I would simply clean it with mild detergent, then dress it with a plastic dressing.