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Everything posted by Neb

  1. My fronts are 205/55R16. So yours would be an inch less in overall diameter. Mine did settle some after a couple drives.
  2. Just wanted to chime in after installing these on my '75 280Z. I definitely researched this thread, and very much appreciate all of the great feedback and information here. Nothing but a good experience for me. I replaced the stock springs paired with KYBs with the full eibach lowering kit (23-4042 on MSA) and koni shocks (2x 23-1033, and 2x 23-1034 on MSA). I also did the MSA sway bars at the same time. Everything bolted up fine. I had the usual issues with the rears when trying to get enough clearance without pulling the spindle bolts. I ended up dropping the rear subframe; pi
  3. I did try unplugging the cold start; no change. But good point clamping the hose. I'll give that a shot tonight. And I'll definitely revisit that TPS; pretty sure I set it where it needed to be when I was reassembling my TB/manifold. But, come to think of it, that may have been before I found that my throttle valve wasn't fully closing due to the little stop screw on the engine side being slightly too far down (found that when the TB Idle screw wasn't killing idle even when all the way screwed in). Definitely rechecking that now.. Thanks! Yeah.. I feel like I owe half of y'all
  4. Injectors are all fresh refurbs from RockAuto; I ordered all 6 at once. 4 came in 'green top', and 2 are kind of a beige color. I figured they were equivalent.. might be a bad assumption though. Picture attached The coolant temp sensor is new, and seemed a little high on the resistance (just checked it again, 1050 ohms @ 110F) but its pretty close to the values in the manual when interpolated. Maybe 5% on the high side. I'll recheck it again when the engine is completely cool. I checked it back when I installed it.. should have written down the values but I came to the same conclusi
  5. I just finished refreshing my intake manifold/injectors/ignition system and I'm attempting to get this thing running right. Having never before actually experienced a properly running Z, I feel like I'm going in circles trying to get it to where it is somewhat healthy. Here is where it sits as of this evening: It'll start after a few cranks, but usually dies a few times, then picks up a high idle (maybe 1500ish). The idle will come down to about 1200 RPM after it warms up (about 2/3 to 1/2 on the temp gauge). The conditions at that point (its fairly steady here): RPM: 1100-1
  6. I thought so too; even finished up bolting on the oil pump. But then I put the distributor cap on there. The rotor was well passed the no. 1 plug position, even with the adjustment screw at full advance in its slot. Yeah, setting the ignition will tell all I suppose. I just hope its better than it started. At least I know the trick to setting that spindle now ?
  7. Alright, I got under there again last night and took another stab (or rather a dozen) at aligning this thing. The procedure mentioned in the book siteunseen posted worked; if I rotated the oil pump CW while I inserted it until flush, and then rotated it so the bolt holes lined back up after it was flush, it would produce the CCW rotation up top. I ended up with 3 'options' (I'm assuming these are based on the gear teeth spacing) and went with the one that pointed the distributor rotor at the #1 plug (which was the most CCW one). I think the vice grip method could work, but I didn't have vic
  8. Thread resurrection! Thanks again for all the help.. but I've run into another issue with this whole timing problem and would really appreciate a sanity check here.. ? I finally got around to removing the oil pump, but ran into a problem when I went to re-install it. I've aligned the spindle and the pump as per the FSM (punch mark above the oil hole), and then reinstalled the assembly, but it still looks wrong. I'm at about 1 o'clock, while the FMS is at about 1130.. what am I missing here?? I was very careful not to turn the spindle during install (actually put it in twice; ended up
  9. sorry to resurrect.. but today I had the exhaust manifold off and the square manifold will indeed cover the round ports no issue!
  10. Success! I swapped out the radiator cap and that seems to of resolved the coolant purge issue. Ran it for a good 10-15 minutes last night and didn't have any coolant leaks. Also did a temp fix on that coolant hose to block the bypass for now. Also also took a quick look at the water temp sensor; still nothing on the gauge. Pretty sure its wired up correctly. Sensor is new. More troubleshooting to follow.. Probably would have gotten more done, except I also changed the oil and had some serious difficulty removing the old oil filter. And while I was at it, I got the oil pressur
  11. Hmmm alrighty. I'll try the old radiator cap and see if it happens again. And I'll block that line; thanks for the input! I hope the 'short circuit' didn't cause it to overheat.. I 3D printed it ? want one? This is what I'm worried about. I need to troubleshoot the temp guage; it either isnt working or it didn't get hot enough to register. I think tomorrow I'll take it out and put it in some hot water while still electrically connected and see what I get. It's a new sensor so I was hoping it would work ? but I'm yet to actually see it register anything
  12. Well I finally got my Z to (almost) ambulatory status. Unfortunately after about 5 minutes of idling and a very brief trip down the driveway and back, coolant started streaming out of the vent tube originating by the radiator cap. And continued for a couple minutes after shutting it off. Kind of a sad end to it's first self-propelled journey, but was curious if anyone had any ideas on why it would be dumping coolant. I don't think I had it running long enough to get anywhere near overheating. Is that where it would purge if I had maybe over-filled it? Or is it possible that it did overh
  13. Sadly no; I asked remembering she was looking. And someone else was asking about something that attaches to the end of the airbox, but he didn't have that one either..
  14. I ran up to Cadiz, KY this weekend and met a guy who is parting out his '76 280z. I grabbed a dash cover from him, but he has a bunch more. He is keeping the body because he is building a V8 road race setup, but he has pretty much gutted it and has a running engine and pretty much everything else for sale. If you're in need of something, his number is 931-206-7052.
  15. I hadn't even noticed how worn down that thing was. Consider me dissuaded! Now I gotta figure out what to do with it..
  16. Wow, tons of great info Looks like I've got some reading to do.. I'll have to dig up a 9v and have another go with the CSV. I tried advancing the plugs one position; it is ALMOST to where it'll line back up with the adjustment screw slot, but not quite. Its far closer to stock though. I'll probably just figure out a way to secure it as-is until I get brave and decide to reset that shaft. Speaking of which, I finally picked up a timing light. I went to set the timing but I may be doing something incorrectly. As I understand it, I ground the red wire from the water temp swit
  17. So from that it sounds like the original height is 108mm. I measured 106mm on my head (measured height both sides, 3 places ea). So from what I gather this head has L28 valves, and is 2mm shorter.. but there are no shims on the cam towers so wouldn't that mess up the timing chain?
  18. Yeesh, yeah that's a wait. Sorry you aren't having any luck. I'll keep my eyes peeled around here
  19. To think this all started with trying to figure out where my temp sensor hookup was, hah. Thanks to everyone for all the input, this has been hugely educational for me. No shims on the towers on the E88 head. Whats a good way to measure the head to see if it had been cut? Or would the lack of shims make that not a possibility Is that something that could be machined in there? Maybe farther down the road I'll have someone work on that head and swap it out. I think for now I'm going to roll with what I've got and focus energies/monies on getting this sucker on t
  20. 1.74 on the intake valves, 1.375 on the exhaust
  21. No leaks around the exhaust manifold, so far as I can tell That is a pretty fun tool. So you're saying the smaller valves and higher CR kind of cancel each other out for performance benefits? Now I wanna pull a plug and try to get eyes on one of the pistons.. who knows whats in there Interestingly, I have another head. It was supposedly rebuilt by a previous owner, not sure on where/when, but it does look like someone went through it. Stamped E88, pictures below. Would yall keep the N47 on there, or swap over for the E88?
  22. N42 it is So if I understand this all correctly, that temp sensor + the N47 marking means the head is the (smaller chamber) Maxima head.. and would make this particular setup higher compression than the standard N47 head+N42 block?
  23. I'll try to grab a picture of that casting mark on the block here in a couple hours. This work stuff keeps messing with my Z time.. Assuming N42 block, N47 head.. this thing isn't going to explode right? Thanks again for the information. Yall are great
  24. Took a couple pictures of the head and block. Head says N47, block is L28 431708. I think I grabbed the wrong number off the block though.. its supposed to be by the motor mount you say?
  25. Oh wow.. Well its not the original engine, I know that much. Somewhere along the line it was swapped, but it wasn't me. I had figured it was from another 280z. If its a ZX block, are there other differences I need to be aware of? I'll look at the number on the block tonight and see if that sheds an light on where it came from..
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