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Well, I have figured this out and now and can post this for future Z owners that convert their 280Z to a ZX (E12-80) ignition. First I tried what ZedHead recommended and replaced the (E12-80) with on of my OEM backups. Result.. no change tac remained non functional below 1200 RPM. I’ve kept coming back to my original theory which was the Tac doesn’t like voltage greater than about 12.5V. I surmised this because I put my multimeter in the tac and measured the voltage charges as I revved the engine. Voltage drops at the tachometer at higher RPM. I noticed that around 12.3v it would begin to indicate RPM. I then checked my primary resistance on the coil. It came to .6 Ohms Using Ohms laws voltage = current x resistance. I determined that with a .6 ohm coil I was pushing the max alternator voltage to the tachometer. So I went out and bought a 1.5 Ohm coil. Put that one it and the tac magically worked. I have three coils on hand now and tested each one. With the 1.5 ohm coil installed I should be reading a lower voltage at the tach At idle it’s around 10.3 v. With the 1.0 ohm coil installed I read around 12.5v at the tach and the RPM worked at idle With the 0.6 ohm coil installed I read 13.4v at the Tach and no reading at idle. So I believe the mystery is solved. I learned a lot on this problem and I also got to test my backup ECU and (E12-80) ignition modules. Time to move on the the next problem….do they ever end? Thanks for the help guys!

Z car wheels are lug centric. In other words, the lugs and lug nuts are used to set the center of wheel's spinning motion. I would check the holes in the wheels and the lug nuts. Make sure that they fit tightly. Those wheels require a certain type of lug nut, that fits the hole precisely, not the tapered seat nuts that a steel wheel would use. Also, check the seating surface of the wheel on the hub. Might be some crud causing wheel runout.

Clip from Nissan/Shell Juke 'Safari Tribute' promo with giant clanger: https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxJJNZD8xa441B5l_PF6tpOd1rprahTMIs "The actual...." Nope.

Not much for Datsun stuff there. I did find this Harada antenna I know it is not from a Z but looks close in size and shape. I tried looking up the part number but did not find much. Anyone seen this one before and know the application? $10 I couldn't pass it up. I also ran across this truck tool kit with a new lug wrench and jack handle, the other part seems to be missing. It did have the paper in there though, and the bag is in good shape. Again $10 I could pass it up.

I replaced the shifter boot and then the E-Brake boots and I bought them from Redlinegoods.com and I had a color problem but thats fixed and I thought I'd post the finished pictures. The shifter boot is made out or leather and the original is made out of vinyl, so if and when you think you'd like to do this, there are 8 little clips that hold the shifter boot on the underside of the console, you'll need to take them to a vise and open them up using a screwdriver, or some other leverage type tool ( The new leather is thicker than the Vinyl ) and I didn't want to remove the console, so once it's loose, I put a cardboard box under the back of the console and it will hold it up so you can install the boot, then just lower it back down and screw it back together. And I then decided it looked odd only the shifter boot being a different color so I ordered a E-brake boot from the same company. Now the difference here is the original boot has push-snaps to hold it to the carpet on the tunnel, but Redlinegoods.com can't do the snap-clips. So if you want to replace the boot with snaps, I can tell you what you'll need and where to get them, ( it is not a big deal, and they are pretty cheap) But I did mine and this is what the finished product looks like :

I think we could make a meme of that, Alan.

Indeed. I just can't understand where the wires got crossed. This is a promo tie-up between Nissan and Shell. The presenter clearly thinks he's looking at The Real Thing, so who told him that's what was in front of him? Nissan? Shell? Somebody else? And how come he didn't spot the rather glaring and obvious differences? Unfathomable. Meanwhile, back in Japan, '1223' is looking a little annoyed:

I took some pics of the kind of stuff I've been messing with... Here's my thin steel adapter plate the I'm using to mount a stock shaped switch on the far right console hole. Note that for the pic, I didn't want to pull the whole console out to take out the switch, so that's why the wires are running through the adapter plate. Also note that I intend to paint the plate black, but I haven't gotten around to that yet: And here's the switch that I'm putting in that location: This is what my switches look like at this point: And with the switches ON:

At least fuses are inexpensive to replace, and if yours are of an unknown age I would suggest replacing them all. Cheap insurance. IMHO. I have seen the price of these and many other parts going up and up. With a limited number of cars and popularity factor that is high, it rings true. Disconnecting the battery is always the safest method, can not go wrong there. I hope your repairs go smoothly.

I finally decided to install headers on my Z, the MSA 6-1's. I had their Performance Exhaust ordered too, but cancelled that after deciding I wanted a resonator, and didn't like the rear muffler u-bolt mount setup. So, going to drive it 10 miles up the freeway open exhaust to a good shop to get finished up. Here's a few pics. Here's what I'm starting with, which all has to come off: Here's the monstrosity to be removed. I've tried to keep this car pretty much stock, but removed the smog pump a few years ago which helped it run better. So now a header, since the exhaust pipes are getting a few pinholes. Figure if I'm doing the exhaust, may as well go the header route now. Here's the old Nichara system dated 1984. Mufflers still seem solid, just the pipes are getting bad. Anybody wants it come get it. 🙂 Already had the MSA studs installed when I rebuilt it a few years ago. Dry fit to make sure it clears everything, thermostat housing, etc. Did have to remove that tray like thingy-ma-jig bolted to the oil pan bolts, not sure what its purpose is. I did use the Stage8 locking nuts, we'll see how they work. I may regret this if I need to re-torque nuts. The shield fits nicely. Love the thick flange on the header, and not having to mess with stepped washers for the 6 studs between exhaust and intake. Finished with header. Overall, pretty easy job. After adding new coolant, started it up. It's going to be a noisy drive to the shop tomorrow! I'll post pictures of the finished mufflers and pipes, tomorrow, hopefully.

You can try to do a flush on the engine. Some people use a hose to get good water pressure through the entire engine to try and push debris out. There are also Coolant system additives you can purchase to help flush the system before doing a full coolant change. Funnily enough, ChrisFix's YouTube videos on the coolant system additive and flush are quick, easy to understand right to the point. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s--5ft5YiHg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8YZF5cW7-A

If you are having coolant blockage issues. You might be able to flush it out with the head off. Many times the cylinder head gaskets have some small holes in them. Maybe some of these are getting blocked. Maybe even temporarily.

I'm installing a fuel rail with a gas tank return on an SU fuel system. A PO removed the original fuel rail and set the fuel system up as a dead head which is causing some vapor lock issues when the car sits between auto cross runs. The issue I'm having now is how to attach the aluminum fuel rail extrusion. There are four 10mm bolt holes on the cylinder head (circled in red), two wire loom screws, and valve cover bolts as possible mounting options. The cylinder head bolt holes would be a good option except that they are so close to the intake manifold flanges that I'm not sure they will be something I could use for mounting. Also, is there any off the shelf fixture for mounting the fuel rail extrusion or at least a design I can copy?

Lots of ways or combinations of ways to confirm blown head gasket. Smell in the presence of white exhaust.....assuming your sniffer is reliable. Borescope is a great idea. Might be something you can rent from an auto parts store. The leaky cylinder will have part or all of the piston clean. Often the spark plug will be unusually clean too. Leak down and / or compression test can contribute to the evidence. Watching coolant level and seeing that it reduces.

Alrighty here are a couple shots of the bottom of the Driver's side fender and the rockers. When lining them up, the Klassicfab panels include every detail of the originals as far as I could tell, so we were able to use the profile of the bottom of the A-pillar to line up the inner+outer rocker combo pretty easily. Lining up the rockers: Shot of the bottom of the new rockers+front quarter panel. Toe box is still a work in progress; previous repair job basically patched that whole area with a much less concave section, so its getting remade. Shot of the door+quarter panel alignment. Door can probably stand to be adjusted forward a bit more here.. but so far so good!:

Z and ZX have Harada's to as far i know so it's no coincidence they look alike. (only the black plastic is metall in a ZX antenna.) Nice find! Never seen tools in theire original red plastic!! hahaha.. again nice find!

Where does d.a.r.e. stand for? oh wait... i look it up! 👍 Drug Abuse Resistance Education From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Jump to navigationJump to search This article's lead section may be too short to adequately summarize the key points. Please consider expanding the lead to provide an accessible overview of all important aspects of the article. (February 2022) DARE logo Drug Abuse Resistance Education (stylized as D.A.R.E.) is an education program that seeks to prevent use of controlled drugs, membership in gangs, and violent behavior. It was founded in Los Angeles in 1983 as a joint initiative of then-LAPD chief Daryl Gates and the Los Angeles Unified School District[1][2] as a demand-side drug control strategy of the American War on Drugs. The program's mascot is Daren the Lion. Its American headquarters is in Inglewood, California. DARE expanded to Great Britain in 1995.

I would not try to stake them. The risks are just too high. I would use the loctite.

I have a few of those too. There are three wires. One ground. One comes from the door pin switch. The other is just 12V to the light so it will come on when you push the lens. If you swap the wires over one at a time you should be fine. You could also pull the fuse, or disconnect the battery if you like.

Yeah Eiji said it sounds normal too. I appreciate the reassurance. I'll just drive it and enjoy it.

Wow…..Talk about a hijacked thread! Whatever happened to the new Proto Z?

Hi all. I recently came down with ALS, but not before buying a set of MSA headers for my 73 240z. I can't manage the install myself anymore, and can't send them back. I'd like to pay someone in KC to do the work. Probably be able to drive it this summer, then have to sell it. Anyone know someone in KC? Thanks, Matt