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Received new fuel tank from S30World to replace the tank in a friends 77. Impressive quality, identical to original. Comes with what looks like a primer coat, you need to do the final finish. Slight damage in shipping to one vent and corner of flange area. Installed & car runs great, owner happy except for the cost to fill it... Joined our local club and will be going on our drive to Eureka Springs Sunday to meet up with the Ozark club. Corrected a number of other issues with exhaust manifold, egr, fuel rail, locks, etc. Back down to six S30's in garage again..

I guess you'll find out how much is true and how much is stuff I made up. 😁

My ‘75Z has been languishing for the last two years, but, now I’m on a mission to finish refurbishing it. Well, it’s more accurate to say that I’m now willing to pay to have the remaining work done. I’m getting old. Yesterday, my mechanic finished installing set of Koni struts to replace the original struts from ‘75. Huge improvement over those old struts. My mechanic is currently going through the used 5-speed I picked up a few years ago and hopefully, it’ll be installed in a couple of weeks, along with a lightened flywheel and a new clutch kit. We’re also talking about a new exhaust system. And then there’s that used 3.90:1 diff I picked up with the 5-speed…

ZH, I saw that post where you talked about putting on the negative side of the coil. I’ve seen it on other posts as well like over on HybridZ. Was hoping it would work for me. I’m going to follow SteveJ and see where it leads me.

Just wanted to show some of the work I've been doing on my Z to fix some thoroughly rusted floorpans and rockers. It is still very much in-progress but I'll try to update as it goes on. Hopefully it'll be of help to someone as a reference, or at least encourage folks to give it a shot. If you see anything wrong with the approach, please let me know! Some quick background: The car is a '75 that I picked up in KY a few years back. Since then I fixed the fuel system and got it running, squared away the suspension (new bushings, shocks, springs, hubs, etc etc). But that is where my skill set ran out; never welded and never done resto work. Kept trying to find a shop to do the body work, but never had any luck. Then I moved and ended up close to a family member who happens to be a retired welder and enjoys doing resto/custom work on cars. Perfect chance to dive into the Z! So I bought a set of the Klassicfab panels and we dove in. The floors/rails started off like so: Driver's Side: Driver's side outer rocker looking rough: Passenger side: The drivers side was worse, but both were pretty shot. There had been a previous repair to the drivers side floor pan in 2 areas, and the rail had been reinforced as well. But both floorpans were perforated in many areas and the rockers on both sides were pretty shot. The frame rails were also obviously shot. First up, we got the car on blocks and welded in some braces. Then we removed the driver's side inner and outer rockers and floorpan (scary initially to cut into the car, but that wore off quick), leaving the seat braces largely intact. Then we welded together the new rockers (inner to outer), and welded the new frame rail to the bottom of the floorpan and tacked those in: Then we welded those in.. or actually my Uncle did most of it because that is some EXPERT level welding; that steel is THIN And then a quick check for door fitment.. should have done this after the tacks and BEFORE welding.. thankfully lined up fine (not perfectly lined up here because the bolts aren't tightened yet) Next onto the passenger side.. same strategy; started cutting out the rockers and floorpan Nice shot of the 4-layer 'sandwich' that is the rockers+pan+bottom of the A pillar: And thats as far as I've made it thus far.. more to follow in the future. What a dirty and laborious job.. but also highly rewarding so far. I am learning a ton! -Ben

I lnow nothing about plungers but you can jump those two post and it'll arch and scare you but it should crank. If it fires up you should take the stater to a local chain and have it tested. Once again PLEASE be careful! That's some major shade tree I watched my Dad do since I was a kid.

I used Rivnuts to attach my flares. The curvature of the flare brings the top edge of the fire snug with the fender. There are a couple places where I could insert s sheet of paper snuggly between flare and fender, but I believe that is more due to irregularities in the flare or the fender. A solution to eliminate even the smallest gap is to run a section of vintage VW Bug fender welting between flare and fender. I had initially planned to do that, but was pleased with how closely the flare fit to the body without it. The welting is wide and you would need to cut triangular shaped pieces out of the lower part to facility bending/curving and leaving a gap for the attaching screw that goes into the Rivnut. Here's a link: https://www.jbugs.com/product/6730.html?utm_content=shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjwm6KUBhC3ARIsACIwxBiqriBdDnm73bShSLTwe7wbl9b8efluH6ub93oOYRCG-rVc4Rjo2tAaAmZ9EALw_wcB

You can also take a piece of wire and connect it to the solenoid small terminal then touch the other end to the battery positive post. A poor man's remote starter switch. Cliff/site's suggestion is the quick and easy way, but using a piece of wire adds some convenience. Supplying battery power to the small solenoid terminal is exactly what the ignition wire does. It will actuate the solenoid which will move the plunger and cause the starter to turn and the gear to engage the flywheel or flex plate.

I've been working on reupholstering the seats this week while listening to this.....

Here’s a decent looking 72 off of IAAI auction in Lincoln IL https://www.iaai.com/VehicleDetail/33557402~US Also a nice 510 wagon in Portland https://www.iaai.com/VehicleDetail/32479419~US Then the 510 “Moth Trap” edition. Ha, check the secondary damage description https://www.iaai.com/VehicleDetail/25757211~US Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Steve, thanks. Word on the street was you were the guy with exceptional knowledge in this area. I won’t get to the car this weekend but I’ll go and confirm everything you mentioned. I thought I totally disconnected the TIU but I could be wrong . I may have reconnected it because I thought the wires were just hanging there. I’ll move that condenser over too the positive side and report back my findings .

For comparison I pulled out the early under and behind seat jute and carpet from my 7/70 #6521 out of my crawl space. Here are few pictures, on each side there are two jute pieces and one carpet piece that goes part way under the seat and up to the plastic toolbox covers. The rear jute pieces go into the toolbox area. Looks like when the toolboxes were moved to the rear deck the jute and carpet changed, 1/71 I think. @zed2A while back you messaged me about these jute pieces, now that I was able to get access to them is there any info you were still looking for?

Fantastic!!! I enjoyed two videos so much, thank you for sharing . Personally, for S20 engine , I like the sound from engine bay rather than the sound from tail pipes. I would like to hear the sound more of “ moving parts , and turning parts “ . Your Z432 is so beautiful , 905 red is the one I always admire . Kats

Quite a lot to discuss (nitpick) there..... Worthy of its own thread, I'd say.

So, I’m going to post this here because…..it’s awesome and I love Jason Cammisa. Here is Hagerty’s latest 240z video that came out today. Enjoy

Enjoying watching my son Brandon bring his new purchase back to “Like New” condition. BTW......If anyone knows where we can find any wheel flares, we’re looking hard. 1987 two door. Thanks Guy

The racing fuel I was using in my race Z usually ran $8 to $10 a gallon. Eventually I went to the local airport and picked up 100 octane low lead for about $6 a gallon.