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Just got back from a grueling 10 day trip. UK, France, Israel…..painful event with Covid protocols. France and Israel have a green pass policy for any dining etc. They wouldn’t accept my CDC card. Total BS what these people are living under. UK is now wide open While I was gone my Heater Valve came back refurbished and it came out great. Total cost to include his shipping to me was $90. See pics. He also tested my AC vacuum valve with it. It was good.

Have to add my 2 1/2 cents to this thread, as the lucky new owner of this beautiful automobile. cw240Z72 is not only a master craftsman but a great guy, having had the pleasure to meet him at his home/workshop this week. Who but a mechanical engineer could do computer based drawings and 3D printer recreations of hard to source parts?! Too nice to drive.....but too bad! This car is going out on the road, and down to the local cars and coffee in the near future. Then "date night" with a girl I've known for a (long) while. Eagerly await delivery..decided I'd better not drive it home during the winter months. And thanks to all who posted here along the way.

And this , approximately 200 USD for a set of six books . Tokyo Racing car show . Just a minute ago, post man rang the bell and I have opened it with a great excitement . Kats

I put about 80 miles on the new Z today. New to me, of course. What a blast. This is the best therapy there is.

Hi Kats, Just this week I received a box set of 'Fairlady Z Story & History' Vols 1 & 2, kindly sent to me by editor Morita san as a gift. He said the photo printing production in the new edition was improved (maybe colour contrast is better?) and indeed it is beautifully produced. I was proud to have made a small contribution for the section which covered the race & rally cars. There are many never-seen-before photos in there. Recommended!

At Nissan HQ Yokohama gallery . Mr.K was interviewed accompanied by Sunshine yellow 240Z . Every time I visit there , I spend an hour or more by looking at cars , books with coffees . Children stared new Zs , a nice car can draw an attention from everyone . Kats IMG_3899.MOV

The valve covers are cast aluminum and the original finish is not polished but a dull, natural aluminum. With age, the aluminum corrodes and that is most probably the finish you are dealing with. When I rebuild engines, I take the blocks and machine parts to a machine shop that cleans the parts, engine block and such, in their cleaner tanks. That is how I get my aluminum back to the natural finish. Soda / hydro blasting will provide a similar finish. Media blasting will pit the surface. If you polish the surface, the aluminum will loose its dull, natural finish and become chrome bright, silver shiny. The more you polish, the more shiny mirror finish you will get.

Just took this pic now… hope this helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

After painting the air dam. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

MY car was not being started regularly as I was in the middle of restoring it. I had heard that there were issues with new fuel pumps. I bought 2 before I finally took a friend's advice. Background: Fuel tank restored Hard and soft fuel lines replaced Carbs restored I filled the fuel bowls, and it would run for a bit I filled the fuel filter and bowls, and it would run A few days after shutdown I noticed that the fuel filter bowl was not full, a few days later it was empty. Would not start, would not fill fuel filter bowl. I was convinced that the pump was not strong enough to pull fuel from the tank to fill all the lines and the fuel filter. As part of troubleshooting, I used a jerry can and short hose to simulate the tank and hard line. Could not pull fuel to fill the filter. There was some information regarding the amount of vacuum created by the pump, so I measured the pumps. Sorry but I forget the results and have lost my notes. An old school method to test a mechanical fuel pump is to put it in a vise and work the arm. If it wheezes it supposedly is more likely that it is ok, if not it is supposedly bad. Solution to my issue: A friend told me to recheck all of the hoses from the fuel filter to the carbs. I did that everything seemed tight. I replaced all of the hoses and this time I used the correct diameter. It was more difficult to connect the right diameter, they seemed overly tight. When this was done, I once again filled the fuel filter and the float bowls. It started and I have not seen the fuel filter bowl empty since, that was 7 or 8 months ago. The car has not been restarted due to other work on it that I am doing. My story is not complete – I never did put the original pump on to prove that it still had life. Bottom line: I am sure there are some bad fuel pumps out there, and I am not saying that you don’t have a bad fuel pump. This is what seemed to solve my problem. It was difficult for to believe it at the time, but as the months went by and the fuel filter remained full other issues became more pressing. The car starts now even after long periods of storage. Hope this helps.

Incase you forgot the before pics, I’m reposting. The now look almost new.

When the supply-demand ratio is out of whack like it is companies don’t need to earn your business. It’s a take it or leave it mentally. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All my brake problems are fixed. I'm not sure what happened to the rear wheel that was locking up. After I freed it with a screw driver and removing the wheel, there were no more problems with that. I don't know if it got stuck when I used the e-brake, or something else, but after freeing it, all the problems went away. I attached two videos. PreFix.mov, this one I jacked up the front of the car and spun the tire, the brakes rubbed a little, this was prior to making changes to the master cylinder. After reconfiguring my master cylinder with the larger reservoir servicing the front I jacked it up and did the same thing and the brakes weren't rubbing. The second test was done after bleeding the brakes and driving the car for about 80 miles. A great day driving around. Just sharing, my results. postfix.movPreFix.mov

I highly recommend that you get this book for your library. It contains a lot of pictures which were taken at motor shows in late 69 and early 70 . We can see the details when the cars were fresh right from the factory. And even more , there are special photos which are provided by Alan for the part of rally cars ! Kats

She has her lips closed, we can't see that front grill.

The front lights have dual filament bulbs. One filament has a lower light level than the other. If you look in the BE section, you'll see the original bulb spec. It's 1034. I was just looking at some original dual filament bulbs last night. When you look at the wiring diagrams, you'll see two loops in the bulb where you have a dual filament. There's also a dual filament bulb on each side of the rear panel.

To put a period on my post I had to get the old trusty laptop cracked open. This is a Excel spreadsheet that @Walter Moore took the time to do. I studied it for a couple of days and decided on the '79 manual transmission distributor and luckily amazon.com had one. I hope this helps you make a decision, it did for me. EDIT: I went back to my past purchases and found it. Unfortunately it's not available at this time. Maybe you could try rockauto.com? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C46L52/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The spreadsheet is below... Distributor advance curves S30-S130.xls

I used this write up to put a '79 ZX distributor in my '72. It works great too. Bought the refurbished ZX distributor off amazon.com https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html The 240 wiring is close to the bottom of the write up.

This one is a good start for the 240Z's. Some people have tachometer problems when they switch to electronic ignition, but others don't. Always a good idea to study the instructions and understand what each wire does before beginning. It's tempting to just follow the instructions and match wire colors but often there is a step missing or just not quite right. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/gmhei.html

Look up the GM HEI conversion for the ignition. The 280Z distributor can trigger it. You will need to ground the HEI to the chassis to complete the path to ground. That's usually done by securing the HEI to the inner fender. With the 280Z distributor and HEI, you would not need the ballast resistor. Just connect the wires together. If you're worried about reliability, you can just keep a spare HEI in the glove box. I believe there are threads on this board about using a coil designed for an HEI module, but I do not have experience with that.

You could also toss it in a hydroblasting cabinet and clean it up that way. There's a guy in this area who has done that with good results (they really do look nice when he's done). He's just using a homemade hydroblasting cabinet, there are plenty of guides on the internet to build one.

Kats, Does Mr. Uekubo have a website which shows the restoration process? Regards, Keith

Is that Rally Car 8D-420? There's a glare just over the number. (edit: somehow miraculously worked my way through the on-line screens of the SAN EI publisher, and bought an online version. Great books! BTW, yes: 8D-420, which is the car featured in 1/71 Auto Sport. They've made a few changes to it after the photo shoot, prior to this show.)

Sanki is a global diversified corporation that represents many companies focusing on machine manufacturing and tools. They make the forge that forged my wrenches. https://www.sanki1948.co.jp/en/

Could someone please post one of her in the "boobs" thread? Thanks.

Ha! Thanks! I don't have "Fairlady Z Story& History" so I just ordered it. Will go well with my library.

I like it. I still don't like the look of the front grill.

Got the Clifford header back from Jet Hot finally. Got everything buttoned back up. Next will be off to the exhaust shop when the roads clear. Ordered new carpet, pulled the seats out to give everything a good cleaning.

Are you sure your rubber hoses are in good condition? Cracks in the hoses, either in the engine bay or near the tank, could allow air into the hoses. This could prevent the fuel pump from pumping. Don't forget to prime the fuel pump, too, if it's been dry for a while.

Here's a Fender Strat and Gibson Flying V. You've probably seen it already but it's worth seeing again.🤗

Nice collection Gavin , hope you will get other Works wheels soon . Do you know another reproduction wheels are recently available in Japan ? It’s design came from a well known Works wheel , just make it narrower and smaller . https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/j1030354322 Watanabe has intermittently been reproducing this Works design in 15 inch , with much wider rim both magnesium and aluminum. But this time who is making it? 14 inch with 7J is just right for my taste . Kats

A Safari Gold Z432 with my Fairlady 240ZG . This Z432 belongs to Mr. Uekubo , he did restoration work by his own hands , metal work , paint work , and mechanical components refurbish work , interior trimming work , and S20 rebuilding. It took him almost 20 years to complete when he finally took the car on the road in 2021 . He was cleaver to do it, he had been collecting parts from local Nissan since late 1990’s . So most of parts which were applied in this car are NOS parts from Nissan , just amazing. Funny thing is, he found this Z432 in a vegetable field covered by lots of dart and soil .If he didn’t decide to take it, this Z432 would have been returned to the earth. He chose a set of replica “ Nissan works rally wheel “ . Looks great in his car . Kats FullSizeRender.mov

I wish they would have stuck with the dual exhaust. It makes the back of the car look so much better IMHO.