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You’re missing the internal safety bar that is normally inside that door. It is attached with three bolts through those holes on this end.

I think this illustrates @mailnome's point.

LOL. Hello? Is this thing on? Check your VIN. Is it a CA car? All this stuff I wrote here is incorrect. Registering it as a classic will exempt you from the emissions inspections. Both the visual and the enhanced. See post further down for more detail. I'll double check when I get a chance, but registering it as a classic won't get you out of the visual test. The visual is part of the annual safety inspection. Registering it as a classic would get you out of the enhanced emissions test, but that is moot... Due to the year (1975) you are already exempt from the enhanced emissions inspection.

What he said!!

That's not the altitude compensator. That's a vacuum delay device for the EGR. The altitude switch lives under the dashboard above the driver's knees. But regardless... Other than wiring harness changes, the CA differences can be pretty easily removed if someone really wants to. But according to the FSM, the CA spec should be built into the VIN.

26th-Z came with a parallel wrench which is marked "NISSAN (nissan hamburger) MOTOR 31". I'll get a pic

He would never do it. The Supremes don't do pub crawls.

Thanks! What I am amazed about is your tool still has a paper , and it is written in Japanese ! The date stamp on the paper is corresponding to your car I think, 25? Feb 1972 . And just for your information, description from the top , they are , 車両昇降用 (for lifting a car up and down ) ホイルナット締付用　( for tightening a wheel nut ) タイヤ止め　( tire stopper ) 上記工具収納用　( for stowing the tools listed above) Kats

Killian, If your car was originally sold into MI, then if did not have a cat from the factory. And as mentioned above, the first easiest way to know if your car was a CA spec. And about the PA inspection rules... It's been a little while since I dug into the requirements, but last time I checked, 75 would have a "visual inspection" only. So your note about "equipment on and working" is a little more restrictive than necessary. If I get a couple cycles, I'll refresh my details on the inspection regs, but my understanding is there are no tests to determine if anything is working. It just has to be present. Some things often removed on a 280? Top of the list would be EGR valve and controls. Second on the list would be the carbon can. And that's about it. BTW - We're probably pretty close to eachother. If you're interested, shoot me a PM!

Your english is great! Compared to my Japanese but the dates coincides with what I have. The dates you have written on your pictures.

I only have a ZX to look at but in comparison the bracket is backwards. On mine it is flipped over. It sits on the outside where it bolts to the motor and bolts to the backside of the alternator, not the front like you have. Not the best pic but it’s all I could find Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is interesting, my 01/70 has parallel, 06/72 has perpendicular. Both have letter “ NISSAN “ in the Nissan hamburger mark . Kats

Not sure if this helps, but this is all I got for where it could possibly go on an exhaust. This was for a California emissions car.

I have two different style wheel wrenches, both fitting the stock Series 1 lug nut. As you can see, the primary difference is the position of angle tip, one parallel (top) one perpendicular (bottom), to the handle. Most 240Zs appear to have the bottom style. Does anyone know the model year application to both top and bottom styles? Thanks, Keith

Here's a Fender Strat and Gibson Flying V. You've probably seen it already but it's worth seeing again.🤗

Correct. Motorsport called me and stated it’s a 3 month backlog, but it was mailed out later that day. I’m guessing they are concerned about shipping being fubar but it’s usually a week turnaround. I’ll be pairing them with the S12-8 calipers after our snow storm in north Texas this week.

Those looks nice…it appears the supply chain issues haven’t impacted brake rotors. Of note, many think the the rotor cuts face rearward but the actually go the other way. The rotor in the picture you provided should go on the drivers side.

No, I think my best direction is getting 'Classic' tags, that way I am not required to have the emissions test, but I still need to have the safety inspection done each year, which I find perfectly OK. It was last registered in 2012 in Michigan. So it has been sitting in a garage the last 10 years. Clean a whistle.

Here's the best picture I could find on BAT, from a 76. "Non Catalyst". https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-datsun-280z-59/

Agreed. And even if they did, I'm not sure they know what a CA spec car is even supposed to have on it. I mean, in CA I bet they would know. But in PA or NC, I'm not so sure. I've got my PA mechanics inspections license, but back when dinosaurs roamed the earth (when I first got it), I don't even think there WAS such a thing as an emissions inspection. And I'm not sure how detailed the pics and guides are for the older cars. Unless the old curmudgeon mechanic happens to remember what was supposed to go where, I don't think much of anything would fail a visual only inspection. Pretty much everyone would recognize an EGR blockoff plate, but other than that, I don't think any freshie mechanic would know what they were looking for. Can you imagine some thirty-something at Pep-Boys sticking a head up under the dash looking for the altitude switch? In other words... I'd fail the crap out of the thing, but I know what I'm looking for and I'm clearly in the curmudgeon category.

Just my opinion, but if we could 'stop the clock' at some point in the car's life then the most important - as well as, arguably, the most attractive - might well have been when it first became a race car in (mid?) 1970. 33 Red. I'd say that was a 24 year old Gene Tierney type moment...

OK then, in my little fantasy scenario we can still have the dent in the roof - complete with young lady if required - and see what kind of hullabaloo comes of it.

My car is a CA spec car. I have replaced my entire exhaust because I live in NC and all cars 35+ yrs old are exempt for all state inspections. I have the old exhaust and all the shields. I was going to sell the cat to a junk yard. They buy and sell them to recyclers for the platinum and palladium which are why these things are so expensive. Let me know if you need any of this stuff. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Categorically NOT "the sixth Datsun 240Z ever built", but the page was last updated in 1998. First one to be delivered to a Datsun dealer? Hmmm... What if dept: It is interesting to imagine the hubbub the car would create if it still existed in its as-delivered state, if the caved-in roof had been repaired and the car had had a quiet life in sympathetic hands only to reappear today in remarkably original, untouched condition. Seismic, I think.

So, first of all, if you have the car registered as a classic or antique, you don't need emissions testing at all. Second is, if you drive less than 5000 miles per year, you'll be exempt from the (enhanced) emissions test, although they are always required to perform the same visual test even if you're below the exemption threshold. I checked the dates on the current regs and it goes like this: The subject vehicles registered in counties in the Philadelphia Region will be required to undergo the following tests: 1975-1980 vehicles - One-speed idle test; gas cap test; visual inspection And the visual inspection goes like this: (d) Visual Inspection of Emission Control System. (2) Provided that the make and model year of the vehicle would have originally been equipped with the device, reject if one or more of the following apply: (i) The catalytic converter has been removed, disconnected or is the wrong type for the certified vehicle configuration. (ii) Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR)valve has been removed, disconnected or is the wrong type for the certified vehicle configuration. (iii) Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve has been removed, disconnected or is the wrong type for the certified vehicle configuration. (iv) Fuel inlet restrictor has been removed, disconnected or is the wrong type for the certified vehicle configuration. (v) Air pump has been removed, disconnected or is the wrong type for the certified vehicle configuration. (vi) Evaporative control system components have been removed, disconnected or is the wrong type for the certified vehicle configuration So the bottom line for the 280's are... You need an EGR, PCV, and the carbon can. And if the car came with a catalytic converter, you need that too. The 280 never had a fuel inlet restrictor or air pump so those don't apply. But there is no functional test for anything other than the gas cap. It's all "make sure it's still there" kind of thing. So still, the biggest thing you need to do is determine if your car was a CA spec or not.

Cliff , my June 1972 car is a Fairlady 240ZG , so it has different chassis number , HS30-11861 , L24-114120. Your 72 240Z reminds me my ex 240Z when I was temporarily staying at Bakers Field CA . Kats

Whoa! I'm totally WRONG! 69.000 vin# has perpendicular. I'm so sorry for my mistake. Cliff

Yes sir, my '77 has the same.

Hi Keith , sorry for my poor English skill , I want to say my 01/70 is like the bottom, 06/72 is the top . I like these topic !

Cliff, So to clarify, your 06/72 has the bottom style? Thanks, Keith

My early '72 has the horizontal hubcap popper as shown in the OP's pictures. I guess it's actually perpendicular with the wheel nut end. Easier to pry with the later style. .

Kats, I had to edit the descriptors to better represent the position of the tips. So to clarify, your 01/10 has the top style, your 06/72 has the bottom style? Thanks, Keith

https://www.zcar.com/threads/1978-280z-california-or-no.407281/

Hay Thank you, I'm not sure if this was a CA car or not, but I don't have that big shielding on my car, I'll post a pic here in a minute, I think the car was saved by always being in a garage and the dealer optioned Undercoating. You can see it pretty clearly and I don't see the bolting for the shielding. I hired an appraiser/Inspector from the Hemmings motor news magazine to inspect it for me, and he said the brakes and clutch MC need replacing but he drove it a little and said he thought that this was a true 'Survivor' since the glass is and the headlight bulbs are still Japanese. I'm trying to figure out what the Cat shielding looks like and where I can find one. The car is in my garage, we got a snow storm yesterday. And wow, your car is mighty impressive !

It has past damage...

My 4/1971 Z has the bottom style.

I think so too Ian , Silvia is very rare to see , rarer than Z432 maybe ! Kats

Replace the rings. Use connectors like this: https://www.amazon.com/Pupilash-Terminal-Insulated-Electric-Connector/dp/B08T5P9Y2N For the green wire in the harness use a female connector and a male connector on the red wire on the pump. Use a male connector on the black wire in the harness and a female connector on the black wire on the pump. Put some dielectric grease on both male connectors. To crimp the connectors, I recommend a ratcheting crimper like this: https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Ratcheting-Crimper-10-22/dp/B07WMB61J5/

There are only two wires. One ring is bigger than the other. Some pumps are set up so that they only fit the right way. They usually put a + and a - on the terminals. If you have a meter test the wires first. Pretty sure green with white stripe is positive. The black one should be continuous to ground. Meter.

@Zed Head is correct on the wiring. Car yellow to new connector green Car white/black to new connector yellow. Here's a photo from my 73.

Top of the T which would be the (S)ense wire which would be the N wire which would be the yellow wire from the car harness. Bottom of the T would be the (L)amp wire which would be the (F)ield wire which is the B(L)ue wire which should go to W/B on your car. Top of the T goes to yellow. (Probably green in your picture). Vertical of the T goes to W/B. (Probably yellow in your picture). You took the picture in such a way that I can't be certain which is the top and which is the vertical. Your initial thought seems backwards. Also, where is the special conversion plug to allow an internally regulated alternator?

I fumbled around with some ratio calculations and your gear teeth numbers come up more like a very close ratio competition transmission. Not a 3.321 first gear. Fourth is always 1:1 on the Nissan transmissions I believe. Tried to find a calculator to make it easy but had to go back to basic math. One hard part of understanding the calculations is realizing that "4th gear" is not really a gear ratio. It's direct drive through the shaft. And, the gears that are called fourth gear are really just the gears that start the power flow through the gear set. They're not really 4th, more like zero. They are part of the ratio calculation for every "gear" that transmits power through the countershaft. Found some illustrations. https://www.artofmanliness.com/skills/manly-know-how/gearhead-101-understanding-manual-transmission/

Just a few references for understanding of the air box .Please enjoy the pictures. Z432 and GTR , both S20 had same design change for the emission (pollution? ) from OCT 1970. Before that , blow-by air was released to atmospheric air pressure from the top of the valve cover , and the right side of the engine block . After OCT 1970 There are tubes which are connected from the air box to the valve cover , and the engine block oil separator. You can see the oil pan and assorted parts difference on both S20 engine. Kats

Branch from a separate thread...