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Hope you all had a Merry Christmas. I got home from Europe on Christmas Eve. Painful 2 weeks over there, they extended me 3 days due to the excessive cargo needed to be moved. I pulled my tank yesterday and boxed it up. How this isn’t another fail!! FedEx Express….the only way to fly my personal stuff!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I went with classic tube. I bought them with the expectation that I could get them plated yellow zinc like they were from the factory. The plater didn't think he could plate them. Regardless, I installed them and I was very happy with the result. They ship them in a very large carton to reduce the number of bends (ie folds) they need to make in order to package them. Even taking that into consideration, you will still need to straighten them and bend them in other areas. I wanted to make sure I still used the rubber brake line insulators in the brackets. I also had another car I could reference to make sure I ran everything in the correct holes. I did not want to see any waves in the tubes. Even a small 8" section. I bought a brake line bending tool and a brake line straightening tool. Without those, it would have been impossible and it would have looked terrible. If I had it to do over, I would have done the same thing. I have one section I need to adjust. Other than that, it looks like someone smarter than me did it. BTW, I am in the middle of a ground up restoration. I dont remember any job being any more difficult than running those brake lines through the transmission tunnel and into those rubber insulators. Take some liquid patience (one bottle), then work for 1/2 hour and repeat the process a few times. Then work on it again next weekend.

I love the look of triples and I have a set I may run. But Im not sure they add a whole lot over SUs other than lower fuel economy

Actually, your test results give me a different conclusion. The problem is upstream of the turn signal switch. Here is why I say this: The turn signals work. The hazard lights don't work. You have the proper resistance measurements at the switch. The jumper at the 6 pin connector was to eliminate the turn signal switch as being the problem. With the behavior being the same as with the switch connected, it reduces the chances that the switch is the problem. If the problem was downstream, the blinkers would have the same problem since they share the wiring from the switch to the taillights. The hazard lights and brake lights are powered off the same circuit. There is a good chance that there is corrosion or a damaged wire/connection in the circuit. Either condition is like a clog forming in the pipe between the water main and your house. If you measured water pressure with no faucets open, the pressure looks fine. However, run your washing machine, the shower, and the hall bathtub at the same time, and you will find you don't have any water pressure inside your house. So how do you find and remove the "clog" in your wiring? The easiest thing is to check your fuse box first. Look for corrosion or bent/poor contacts at the fuse. Look for corrosion or deteriorating contacts on the backside of the fuse box. Make sure the connectors between the dash harness and fuse box are in good condition and free of corrosion. Don't be afraid to take photos of your fuse box and post them here. I can only make "logical" guesses without seeing things or working with a meter on your car.

Well I'm really liking these. More labor........ I'm not counting my hours so theres that.

Yeah i did that last month but last week i needed the car (after a stand still of 3 weeks.) and it fired right up and after about 5 seconds of running on the choke it died.. i suspected the bowls were just emptied. Did not look at the bowls just got me some air from my compressor and bluw them open.. then the car fired right up and i was able to drive it for 10 min. without any problem! So i think that there was some fuel left in the carbs.. but the pump could not fill the bowls again.. As i have a few new pumps and no valves (new) i think i just put in a new pump and be done.. sorry for getting a bit.. a lot.. off topic here!

Rather than taking the bowl covers off, you could just pull off the vent line and stick something down the hole and see if it comes out wet. Like testing a cake.

I suspect the fuel. The newer Fuels are designed to atomize easier to make them burn cleaner. So the bowls are just drying out

I like the simplicity and driveability of the SUs. Weber's would be fun to fool around with but I'd want a Dyno to check the tuning of them.

Thanks Zed Head for your thoughts and link to the excellent tutorial. I learned a few things I wasn't aware of. Pretty sure my E-88 came from a 49-state 240Z, so likely fairly small combustion chambers, if I'm following you correctly. Car does run exceptionally well, so small gain with high cost is not really on the table. I had the option of installing flat-top pistons when I installed the re-worked head. My desire to get the car back on the road trumped the piston swap. This post was spurred for the most part by curiosity over what my impatience may have cost me. I may still swap on my Webers, though, I've had my triples on one of my other 240's and, honestly, my experience has been well set-up SUs perform just as well on the street, with a lot less headaches. Thoughts?

That makes more sense. You may want to get a terminal kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VKCCN12. It comes with a crimping tool. You could make a jumper with an inline fuse (See https://www.amazon.com/BOJACK-Holder-Inline-Values-Assortment/dp/B0813Q4S6P) and install it between the green/yellow and white/red (or white/black) wires on the dash harness side of the 6 pin connector. You could press the brake pedal to see if the brake lights on one side lights up. If the brake lights come on, then you can focus more on the turn signal switch. Also at the 6 pin connector on the turn signal switch measure resistance between the green/yellow wire and to the white/red wire. Repeat between the green/yellow and white/black. You should see close to zero ohms. If you have high resistance (or open line) that would indicate an issue with the turn signal switch.

I would use Fedhill material and make my own

With age, properly functioning emission controls and vapor recovery become more important. 😎

I need a new "wiper bag" mine's sagging after 50 years. And the rear clunk when changing gears is just as it sounds, I've changed gears and have a clunk. Maybe a new rubber mount would work? but going through TSA would be a bitch.

Maybe do something about the sagging rear end and stinky exhaust, too. 😎

I need to put some MT-90 in my knees and elbows, then S.E.M upholstery paint my faded hair and carpet.

Pressures can vary depending on the gauge and adapters that are used but those numbers are kind of low. They're about right for a turbo engine. I can't find much about the 260Z E88. I've read about "smog" E88's that have lower CR's. The 240Z E88's had pretty small combustion chambers. Anyway, here's an article with some math and comments about what you could expect. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/compression-ratio-means-more-power/ Also, the 260Z had a CR of 8.8:1, which is actually on the high end for Z engines. But you have a larger displacement so even with flat-tops you'll end up lower than that. (edited) Big picture - it runs well and makes good power, why mess with it for small gains?