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OK... I think I understand now. I originally thought this thread was started for the purpose of discussing removing emissions equipment, but, in fact that's not at all why this thread was started. This thread was started simply as a complaint. You're complaining about other people because you don't like their reaction to discussions about removing emissions equipment. You're unhappy with other people's input and you thought it would be a good idea to start a thread to complain about it. So I think I got that much, but I still don't know what year service manual to refer to... What year is your butthurt?

And actually, I've been confused since the start. You started this thread with the title "Butthurt Emissions delete...." and I'm not sure what you mean. Are you butthurt by your emissions? Are your emissions butthurt by you? Are you trying to delete your emissions BECAUSE they are butthurt? Sorry, but I'm completely lost.

Some outside photos of the Z.

The topic itself isn't really that bad. It's the use of the word "butthurt" that set things off. It's an offensive word. I'd avoid it in the future, along with similar words.

Agreed. I can pretty much guarantee that site wasn't trying to demoralize anybody. Not that kind of guy. Here's my take on what site said: "I don't understand your point with the above. If you want to delete your EGR, then go ahead. It's not that difficult. Heck... With enough reading, even I was able to figure out how to do it. And you, being an engineer, are probably much more capable than I am." That's my read.

I would love to add another Z to my stable. Unfortunately, I'm on thin ice with the Boss of the House.

I recognize that car 😁

I think I'd try to find a later hatch and keep the early one. Add it to your 401Z plan.

I'll bet one of your kids could show you how. 😁

I dont really have a good recommendation. What I would recommend is to not do anything that isn't reversal. Early hatches have gotten very expensive if they can be sourced at all!!

I should have mentioned SRV, but that kinda goes without saying. I loved the work of his bass player, Tommy Shannon. His work with SRV was outstanding. For a treat, here's a version of Pipeline that I love...SVR and "Richard" Dale from the little-known movie "Back to the Beach" which was a beach movie reunion of Frankie Avalon & Annette Funicello. It didn't make it into the final cut of the movie, but it's one of the best versions of Pipeline you'll ever hear:

Badges? We don’t need no steenkin’ badges! Besides, I have enough already.

Now you see... I don't understand how it can be a secret if they post a video about it. It's like... How can you claim something has a secret location if there's a big sign on the interstate showing you how to get there. Not sure if I posted this before, but this was on the way to ZCON Atlanta:

Attitude. Read @sightunseen's post again. Looks like he was encouraging, not demoralizing. One of us clearly misunderstands his comment.

So if you're spending that much time on the parts of the car you CAN'T see (once it's put back together), I can just imagine how the parts you CAN see are going to turn out!

I also worked on the tail light panel some on the right side. I noticed it wasn't flat so I started messing with it and it was badly oil canned. So I worked on shrinking it. I might could have made one video if I knew how to work my phone but I obviously don't The area I tried to shrink got better but I couldn't get it right. So I eventually cut a relief cut and welded it up. That made it very acceptable. I may have over heated the first couple of spots and sometimes that makes it difficult to get it shrunk all the way down. It's also possible when I reinstalled the the tail light panel, I put that oil can in it and it just wouldn't shrink enough. I also don't have a shrinking hammer and dolly. That might have helped especially when you have it hot

I don't see any posts about EGR on your car on this forum either. Maybe you're getting your forums mixed up? As far as the FSM goes, these early FSM's are like school textbooks. Much more educational than today's FSM's. I have to say it, even though it won't make you feel better - the title of the thread is mirronic. I just now made that word up, because "ironic" is used incorrectly so often. Anyway, don't get caught up in anybody's comments, if you think they're negative. There's plenty of positive here to destroy the negativity.

What's your point? I deleted mine without any problems just a lot of reading. It was all common sense but for you, an engineer, it should be much easier.

I'd look into silicone putty. I've not used it but it looks like it would seal out water and be reversible.

I'm looking forward to seeing this example going up for auction on BaT. The level of effort and detail is exemplary 👍

Looks great! One thing I regret not doing while my engine was out is cleaning and painting the front crossmember. Tackle that now if yours needs it (it looks good though!). It looks like you have new bushings which is nice! Start with a nice deep clean of the bay. As far as handling rust, I dont think my method is the preferred way (panel bond), but finding rust is the same. I poked and probed with a punch or screw driver in the problem areas for any rust. From there I used a flappy disc to sand away until clean metal was found around the entire rust spot. That is where I made my cuts. Check under the car too for rust in the floorpans. Just because the sound deadening looks okay, water could have seeped beneath. I discovered a few spots forming after removing mine. I used POR15 for my interior coat and highly recommended it. What sort of goals do you have in mind for the car? What steps next to you want to tackle? Engine, paint, interior, etc. Theres so much advice to be had! Depending on your goals, some may recommend a rotisserie to start stripping the underside.

Some progress pics on the car... I stripped the engine bay with the exception of the fuel lines. I'll be taking those out at some point as well. Also stripped the interior and preparing to address any rust I have. Any words of wisdom from those that have done this before? The floors are solid so I'll keep the factory sound proofing and just prime and paint over the original. I'll need to address a previous repair under the battery tray as well.

Done deal!! Looking forward to it! And if someone else brings it up, try this... "I'm simply PRACTICING on the areas that don't show, so that by the time I get to the ones that DO show, I'll have it down pat."

@Zed Headunderstood and apologies if I have offended someone.

I use to be a perfectionist, I have gotten older so I've grown out of that into the next closest thing! 🤣

Ohhh! Now you're adding pressure! 😉 If it's not, you and I will get a few beers and then we won't care. 🙂

I read a story about Steve Jobs. When his engineers came to him with the first iPhone prototype Steve asked them what kind of screw they were using. He said he wanted stainless steel, they told him it would only add cost and no value to the the phone. He said something like “ but I’ll know they aren’t stainless”. I too struggle with being obsessive and it helps me be good at my job but can bog me down to with personal projects. My old boss told me once, “Don’t let perfect be the enemy of good.” Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you block off the vent, you destroy the cabin ventilation system and nothing short of a sealed plate over the top of the hatch deck is going to seal it off. I found replacement sources on the internet right away. Search "240Z hatch vent ducts".

Perfect!!

I got enough merit badges, so I don’t need to shake hands. Besides, Covid, eh?

What?!??!! You don't know the secret handshake? The official Datsun Z owner's Yutaka Katayama handshake?!?!!?? WTF, dude?

If you ever want to borrow a welder or come over and weld I have one and I am in Gilbert did my floor panels/frame rails and tons of other stuff with it. Just let me know. unfortunately I was too late for the panel bond posts

I can struggle with being obsessive. It makes me good at my job, but it can bog my projects down. I keep telling myself I cant see the back of the car from the driver's seat and it doesn't matter. How's that working out? 🙂

Finished patch panel on forward attach panel for right floor pan, and welded up holes where I drilled spot welds on the rear attach area. Next, weld in floor pan. Copper backing to weld in holes.

@Barefootdan that looks great, hopefully mine can look like this when Im finished. I pulled all the interior and wiring this weekend. Its basically ready for the patch work and paint! keep up the good work!

So I found an issue when test fitting the tail light finishers. The gaps on either end were different About a tenth of an inch different. So what I did was oval out the holes in the top edge of the panels so they can all shift to the right. After that, the gaps were identical. I also noticed something in the bumper indentions on either side. The spot welds on the right side are nice and uniform On the left side, not so much... So I am assuming the ones on the left reflect the impact from a wreck on the rear of the car. The floor board shifted forward enough to pull all the spot welds forward and make them look pulled forward This was the current status at the end of the weekend

I remember them.

Don't know if you saw these...

I think that many people just get offended by the lack of effort some people put out to understand how things work before removing them. And the fact that in many cases the car will stink more and run worse afterward. For example, the BCDD's purpose is to let air in to the intake system so that the fuel from the injectors can properly burn. Without the BCDD the injectors still squirt some fuel even with the throttle blade shut that passes through and out the tail pipe, creating the "old car stink" that anybody who's been behind one hates. Removes the cats - mores stink. Remove the EGR - you're contributing to smog. Remove the AAR - you'll have to hold your foot on the throttle pedal or blip the engine until it's warm enough to keep running on its own. So the engineering types who work in fields that actually created these amazing technological conveniences can get a bit offended. To anyone who does plan to remove these things, just take a little time and try to understand what they do and why they are there, instead of posting about removing "emissions crap". It only takes a little bit of time and gives you the ammo to say that you've considered it and made your decision.

I too removed nearly all of the emissions and "extra" items on my 280. EGR, Cold Start Valve, BCCD, Carbon Canister, PCV system (filters instead), AAR, and also the water temp sensor. I have alot of extra wiring now, but I planned on redoing my harness soon so I just tied them out of the way. I found a good thread on hybridz that listed the majority of the items: Carbon Canister (surrounding area will smell like gas after you shut it down hot, gas fumes in the engine compartment). No performance benefit. EGR Vacuum line - this will shut off the EGR permanently. You can also remove the EGR entirely, but you must make a block-off plate. No performance benefit. Injector cooling fan - you probably did this already. No performance benefit. TPS - throttle position switch. May cause idling or WOT issues. AAR - you will have a slow idle when cold, may stall out. No performance benefit. Idle speed adjustment - see above. No performance benefit. PCV system - underhood will smell like blowby if you have any. No performance benefit. BCDD lines - actually removing unit may require taking manifold off and making block off plate, not sure. No performance benefit. Ported vacuum system, including TVV and all lines. Move distributor line to manifold vacuum. Adjust base timing accordingly, remove 12V advance if desired. No real performance benefit. Coolant lines that run to the AAR and throttle body. Cold Start Valve - May cause extremely cold starting problems. No performance benefit. I do recall reading that the stock Z efi system is designed to be used with a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. A drop in vacuum (open throttle) adds more fuel pressure (more fuel) and Higher vaccum (closed throttle) reduces fuel pressure (less fuel). But I am swapping to a new fuel rail with a new regulator so I am not worried. During my research, I also got the vibe that it was sacrilegious to remove anything the Datsun engineers installed. Even if I sell a Z part locally and take to the buyer, 50% of the time they ask me why I removed what I did. But it didn't stop me, nor should it stop you if thats what you want to do to your car. If we all followed the FSM, none of our builds would be interesting 🙂 But take what I did with a grain of salt as my Z has only been around the block twice 😄

I would follow Charles off a Cliff.