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The black in the engine bay is like an undercoating type paint. A lot of the same type of paint is underneath too. The paint code tag is 110 persimmon red which oddly enough looks a lot like the R4 red on my Super Bee. My wife and I were married in 1995 and the first time I saw the car it looked like it does now. I assume it was painted sometime in the late 80’s. It is definitely my wife’s car but I’m crew chief lol. Father in law passed in 2009 so the car has been collecting dust in my mother in law’s garage. She’s getting up there in age and wanted to start making sure assets go where they should. Here are pics of a decal I found in the owners manual and a pic of the dealer installed 8 track player. It has matching Beltek speakers in the tail panel trim.

Absolutely love this!! I did a similar thing with mine and also used a water mist spray. I did get some very odd looks standing on the side of a dark road spraying my engine with a plant mist spray! :p But I did discover my coil arcing onto itself!! It did it rarely and randomly without encouragement and very clear /regularly with the mist spray. This is a great test to do - why didn’t I think of recommending it! Way to go Zed Head!

Finally got a taste of fall weather and got the old girl out of the house/garage. Didn't want to leave, breaks were stuck but more rpm and out it came. Topped off the tank with 93 octane and hit Country Club Hills. It rolls now by just just sticking my left leg on the ground and pressing foward. Yea for me! Tomorrow we're going for some distance driving. Maybe wash it 1st but it's remarkably shiny with the nylon panties type cover I bought. Fits really tight all the way to the ground. Good day in my book. So now it's time to get bad.

So you would do half a K turn and block traffic while your carb refilled - lol

I had the same problem going up steep inclines. The front carb would run dry and then it only ran on the back 3 cylinders. I could roll the car backwards and cut the wheel making it perpendicular in the road, let the front carb fill back up and it ran fine for another mile or two. My floats were way off but once I got those adjusted properly I went straight back to Cheaha Mountain and "tested" it. Pulled up that thing like a mule, no sputter whatsoever. The quick and easy way to get an idea where your's are is the clear hose method.

Thank you! A quick rough measurement shows about 2 1/2 inches of clearance to the frame rail. I originally tried to clock the compressor fillings 90 degrees toward the frame rail, but the bigger discharge fitting was just too close to the rail for comfort. In other A/C related news, I recently completed about 1700 miles of driving to Zcon & back with the A/C system running and it performed flawlessly. Very happy about that, and even with the A/C running some of the trip, I managed around 29 mpg on the fuel. (Had to drive behind Zup's silver 240 some of the time so he wouldn't see my sweater & gloves on.)

Just did the wire around my cracked horn button. It was a little more trouble than I thought but it's tight and "clicked" in place. It won't fall off again no matter the pot hole. Thank you for showing me that everytime I brought it up. It only took 5 years @jfa.series1.

This got me straight. After doing it once it clicked for me too, like Tweeds says. You can print it out and keep fuel off your computer/phone.

ZTherapy sells a video: https://ztherapy.com/products/videos/just_SU.htm Here is their main page: https://ztherapy.com/

Sputtering at 3500 rpms while climbing a hill sounds like fuel starvation to me. Especially if it will rev to high rpms in neutral (no load). Fuel filters, float levels, carb balance, fuel pressure, and fuel volume, are where I'd start looking.

Heavy loading as in going up a hill can also put a strain on your ignition coil . Maybe another thing to check

We use in europe BPR6ES-11 in the L28 you could order 6 new ones it's just a few bucks and test it. But i don't think it solves your problems.. there are a lot things that make a engine run rough..

Might be the carbs - have you tuned them? They might not be balanced, or the mixture could be off. I had similar issues, and a good tune helped a lot. Though I never had sputters from hills and hills alone - it was more a rpm/throttle input thing in general. My mixture was off, I reckon. Sputters are much rarer now that I've gotten things pretty dialed in.

Google read my mind and placed the video in front of me. I added the effort of clicking and wrote some words. Anyone who tries this must make a video and post it.

I apologize for digging up bones, particularly my own…. Just wanted to report that 2400 miles in she is running great! Starts easy, idles great, pulls to redline (to be honest I’ve only redlined a couple times). Compression is 160 to 165 across all 6, did a leak down test on #1 today and according to the gauge I’m well within acceptable leakage, I’m planning to test the rest this weekend but I feel confident that they will be close to #1 Looking forward to getting my Z Therapy carbs, hopefully next month, to seal off the last of the vacuum leaks around the throttle shafts. id like to thank you all for your input

You can put a tee in the block where the sender goes, screw the sender in one port, a mechanical gage in the other. The rule of thumb for oil pressure is 1lb for every 100rpm. So at idle if you have 10lbs you're good to go.

They appear to be correct for a 73. The bumperette will overlap the rubber trim strip when they are installed. See the notch in the side profile of the left bumperette in your photo? That notch will fit over the rubber trim strip close to the end and will actually compress the rubber when fully tightened down if the rubber trim strip and bumperette are positioned correctly. The trim strip holes in the bumper are elongated and give some latitude for adjustment. Crowd the elongated holes to the side towards the bumperette as you install the rubber trim from the center of the bumper towards each end.

Darkness can help diagnose spark loss problems.

As some of you have seen, I made the splurge to get flat top pistons. One too many margs and a quick look on eBay had a full set with con rods for $150. I'll take that! They showed up yesterday and look great compared to what is coming out of this car. No pitting at all and way cleaner. I dont think they were hot tanked either since I was able to get a nice amount of crud out from the ringlands. I cleaned up with a scotch pad to get most of the carbon deposit off. Side by side of the Flat Top (Left) vs the Dished (Right). I noticed there are different markings on the con rods. Is one better than the other? I did some reading and see they are interchangeable but no real confirmation on strength. I'll probably just use the flat top rods as the wrist pins feel smoother and less work 😄 Other updates include fixing my wiring diagram for the relays and switches to run a power switch and then starting my designs for the switch panel. My first draft below would be could out of aluminum, powder coated black, then either laser cut or decals for the lettering and design. I am not too sure on if I want toggle switches or push button switches yet. The start button will definitely be a momentary push button. Then the battery, I will likely use a locking toggle (if I go with all toggles). I dont want to accidentally hit this while changing my radio 😄 a push button wont have that high of a risk of an accidental press. Ign, Fuel, and Fans can all easily be a toggle or push. Lights will be a dual pole ON-OFF-ON toggle with the other option being a rotary selector that is also ON-OFF-ON depending if you turn left or right. Lastly, the radio is a bluetooth controller. No screen because I will always use my phone (sorry analog music listeners!). It allows for everything I need, volume, next, back, play, pause, and an audio jack if I want. It does not have a built in amp so I will go with a small unit behind the dash or seats to provide power. Simple and I think it will blend in better than a modern day head unit. I'll order up a handful of toggles and push button switches in various sizes. I mocked this up to scale, but it is always different seeing it in person. My main worry with toggles is the 'toggle' piece might get too cumbersome in the tight area. We'll see...

Decided to try and see what I could do to this wiper motor piece. It’s been stripped but seems to have another layer of platting or something that rust had eaten into. I had already started to sand the lower right side with 120. Not to shabby! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here’s something a little different...