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His machinist told him he needed 0.080". That's the bigger issue, I think. What is the guy doing.

Okay the Exedy clutch and Fidanza fly wheel arrived yesterday. I’ve decided to attempt to pull the engine and transmission as one unit. I’m going to use neither (engine or transmission again). I have a 280zx transmission I cracked open last summer and many of you help in that endeavor (EuroDat, Zed Head, And Dave WM to name a few). It was like a primitive ape looking at the inside of a iPhone....clueless. I think my current transmission has issues so this is the most efficient path forward. I need (want) to paint the transmission to match my block first. Question regarding motor mounts. What’s the consensus? Do these need to be replaced when I swap engines or is there some inspection that determines their usability? Had not thought of that but I know many other cars these mounts needs periodic replacement. My Dad used to have a 944 and that thing ate Motor Mounts every 50k miles it seamed. That was a great great car BTW. This is me when I was 18 driving my Dads 944. What a car for an 18 year old kid....dangerous, what was my Dad thinking Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

its been a min since i posted an update so here goes, ill try and keep it semi in order and ill attach lots of pics cause itll be nice to look back n see the progress ive made. shortly after my last update i did the s13 coilover conversion, and noticed a significant improvement, next goal is to do sway bars but that will be a while. i shed 19lb up front and 7lb in the rear, while not really important it was interesting seeing the difference. i used the maxpeedingrods coilovers from ebay, and they've actually been decent, should i need to replace them they are quite cheap. i did the alignment myself, -2.7* on the front and the rear is whatever cause i cant adjust it yet, and i set it to 1/8" of toe out but ill move it closer to zero toe soon. i also added a bunch of rake to the car to offset the squat some and make the car look more how i want it to. carburetor: sunk a float and set the engine on fire, but i had a fire extinguisher on hand so im just cleaning up residue, nothing major got burned thankfully, i also have been trying to sort why my jetting changes dont affect performance and it always behaves like its lean especially when it gets hot, culprit is what i believe to be gasoline boiling inside the carb as heat from the intake manifold transfers and heats the carb, causing vaporlock. ill 3d print a plastic spacer to alleviate this issue hopefully. electrical: ignition wise i lost an icm inside my hei, replaced it and things got better, been having trouble with keeping all 8 cylinders firing but ill resolve it one day. i also updated/cleaned up some wiring, so its easier to sort in that regard. i tried to wire the tcc lockup on my 700r4 but its not working so ill check my wiring again and go from there, millions of different ways to wire a 700r4 lockup. timing at the dizzy also seems to randomly be slipping which is odd, gonna try a few things after its redialed in to resolve it. exhaust: i finally built a full system for it, i loved the open headers but after my ear dripped blood onto my shiny valvecover i had enough and decided it was time, i did dual 3" in to single 3" out with a nice borla atak muffler, it sounds literally exactly how i wanted it to so i couldn't be happier, and my ears dont ring after driving the car. ill try to attach video of it. transmission: dropped the transmission for the 3rd time this year, replaced the tail shaft seals and bushings, sealed up the governor cap and the dipstick tube so i now officially don't leak any fluids in noticeable amounts, which warms my heart. tires: currently on nitto nt05, 200tw tire and they actually have some grip, combined with the suspension upgrades this thing handles really well, but is very twitchy so i need to tone it back a bit. racing: i am officially signed up for my first autoX race on august 15th, im super excited, i been working hard trying to get the car dialed in enough to go race, so if i can pass tech then i will have a ton of fun, even if i break the car at the start line ill still be happy gonna try and add pics, feel free to ask questions or leave suggestions IMG_5335.m4v 64832813541__345AF4C7-37FE-4190-B4EE-1B1B2090E00B.m4v IMG_5247.m4v

Found one of the old MM threads. Post 36 on.

T-shirt?

Yeah get them local so if the pin doesn't line up. 280s are okay from everything I've read, it's the 240s that need modifying or big bucks from Nissan. I wore my Vans all the way through then put Shoe Goo on them. They were not allowed in my Mom's house and I immediately had to go sit on the edge of the tub and wash the stank off. Chuck Taylors too but I liked Van HI 8s. Vaurnets and Members Only jackets. Guaranteed poon tang! Still got mine!

Late evening drive.

Yep, those were a pair of Vans that had been shredding up the streets on my skateboard. Back then if you worn new stuff people called you a poser...I had to maintain my image. That’s exactly what those glasses were...top shelf back then. I weighed maybe a 115 lbs. Somehow I’m the same height and weigh 60lbs more today. Okay...ordering motor mounts today. Side note: I crashed that car in 1990. Ran into a Jersey Barrier on sharp turn on a icy road in Boston. Dad almost killed me. But it was repaired and looked and drove like new again. If I could find that car today I’d buy it back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wish I still had my Vision Street Wear T-shirt.

He was growing a car guy!! A little danger is a necessary ingredient! 😉

No, they are not supposed to move. I did not want to use heat to fix mine as I didn't want to drop the tank, fill it with dry ice and solder it in place, so I used JB Weld. It's held up for the last 10 years. The proper fix is the one I didn't do... Cheers, Mike

In addition to what @jfa.series1mentioned, I have found that it helps to have the panel around the quarter window out before installing the rear, due to the overlap of the two panels. In your picture I can't tell if the quarter window panel is installed.

Remove the hatch strut from the bracket, prop the hatch open. The bracket is welded in place, leave it alone. Get the foot of the panel in place and very gently bend the panel to get it past the bracket.

I think I got them from amazon.com for a lot cheaper. Stop Techs I think and they do stop on a dime. No squeaking either, just like you say. Another proven by me thing is no brake dust with ceramic pads. My wheels are always shiny. Ceramic, it's not just for high heat coating. 👍

Glad you didn't burn anything up. I caught Holley 750 on a 350 in an '86 Suburban on fire once. Had a fire extinguisher and caught it, but that initial sight of fire sure does wake you up.

Sorry to hear you're hurt Charles. Looking forward to seeing you next year.

This is the filter I have always used and currently installed ...

Crank had to be cut way back in time to clear wear-related damage, so now I can't use stock bearings. I would think that by now in the life of these motors, most cranks would have needed to be cut, but maybe not.

@siteunseen I recognize those rotors - you get them from MSA? I got a set, with the ceramic pads as well. Stops on a dime and only squeaks once a day! Looks sexy too...

No tricks, Looks like the hatch strut and bracket is in the way.

Don't make me come down there to make sure that happens.

Lol.

At least the Mustang II is only a $7k car. https://offerup.co/FLWDUjFM8hb

I'm gonna miss seeing all of y'all... again! I couldn't make the trip even if I wanted too... Sitting on heating pad right now 😞

The description is hard to read. Very clunky and awkward. Trying too hard I think. Interior, AC, interior again, more AC, more interior. The cabin features seating that is said to have been recovered in black with a matching dashboard, door panels, and replacement carpets. Amenities include ARA air conditioning, a refurbished center console, three-point seat belts, an analog clock, and a push-button AM/FM radio. The air conditioning is said to have been recharged using Enviro-Safe hydrocarbon-based refrigerant, and cracking is noted on the dashboard and is depicted in the photo gallery below.

If your cam is stock and he just did a clean up cut on your head, the stock .120 rockers are what you need. Maybe you ordered the wrong rockers……160, .170 or .180’s? .120’s are correct for what you described…… case closed!

be careful with the bellows/boots, their like $80 a pop 😞

That's a head scratcher for me. I like it for a minute then the scratch where I don't.

From what I've read the p79 head after a cut uses the 75 through 78 valves. I've not done this but here's a write up on that head mod. I'm no mechanic just a curious reads everything guy. https://datsunzgarage.us/p79/

Shawn, You have issues with your dome light switch, as you have asked for guidance here >> I was not able to test this as when I went out to test it, my bezel shattered. And my ability to turn the dome light on and off at the dome light. I *believe* that normal operation is that the dome light is ON or OFF In the ON position (which I think you have), the dome light is ON, ALWAYS. Door switch does not change that. In the OFF position, the dome light is OFF until you open the door and then the dome light lights. Have you checked into replacing your broken dome light? Z Car Depot has them available, I just ordered one. Here's the link >> https://zcardepot.com/collections/lighting/products/dome-light-lamp-lite-oem-240z-260z-280z-70-78# The OEM Nissan Part number is 26410-E4101 if you wish to investigate other purchasing options. I think you have multiple electrical issues that are compounding to your troubleshooting. PS - The power supply in the fuse box is in the INNER side of the fuses. So make sure you have power there before checking the other side. Just my 2 cents.....

I heard rumor that it will be hosted by the home club of the ZCCA Treasurer. Here's the way to find out at ZCON before they announce it. Look around at registration and ask people working there who are not ZCCA officers (and family thereof) if they are with the host club. Most likely someone will respond, "No, I'm with the such-and-such club." Those people are at the convention to learn how to run registration for the next convention. Of course, there's usually plenty of loose lips around the convention saying where the next one will be held. The last few years only one club puts in a bid. For those of you who are not members of your local Z club, please join, especially if it's a ZCCA club. If it's not a ZCCA club, join and try to get them to join the ZCCA. It's only through the support of local clubs and the ZCCA that it's possible to have the conventions. If you haven't gone to a convention, consider going. Even an introvert like myself can find things to enjoy at the conventions. (Actually while many people are trying their hands at pub-crawls, I'm usually looking at the cars/photographing the cars/talking to the car owners.)

For what it's worth I've only replaced outers on my Zs as part of of refurbishing the steering racks. My '72 drives like it's on a rail, straight without any shake and that's the OE inner tie rods. I will add it's low mileage car however so take that into consideration. Mine is a once monthly driven car too so I didn't replace the inners. I think you can spend money elsewhere like new rotors, calipers and SS short lines on all 4 corners. I went with drilled and slotted rotors plus ceramic pads, new bearings and all that stuff. Very happy with the results too.

Final touches on this new R35 coil bracket design. Next is laser cutting for final test fitment. Joseph Monti did a great job with this design, the boot angle was all his idea. Previously the coil boots had a huge curve in them, which we both hated, this splits the difference (22.5 degrees). I also disliked the coil head angle I had originally decided on. This new coil head angle keeps the wiring nice and secured.

It's about a month away, and I've officially started training for the event. I figure the sooner I get familiar with the foreign environment, the better. Less shock to the system that way, right?

While I won't be there, I recently got to spend time with a car that will be in the hotel lobby. Break out your leisure suit, lace up your boogie shoes, and step into the time machine to relive 1980.

I'm out. I'm hoping 2022 will be closer to me.

I've been hurt for over a year. Was some better but recently regressed by about 6 months

Gents, It’s looking like a no-go for me. I tried to schedule it in but it just didn’t work out. It looks like I’ll be in Europe while you all are exercising your livers. Don’t forget IPA’s make the worst beer hangovers and CO has many to choose from...start training now like Bruce. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk