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Do you need to drop a hint about what your kids should get you for Father's Day? https://www.autozone.com/ratchets-sockets-and-wrenches/socket-set/duralast-10mm-socket-set-10-piece/582151_0_0?spps.s=3827&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:TLS:71700000060668368&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8IaGBhCHARIsAGIRRYrdJYwuRUVPbX4xGYByivEdXCmfN4kouAnXE0V4H-HS7NJd_3-iH4oaAqGfEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Of course, the chances are that you'll lose them in the same places that you lost all of the others...

To close out this thread, it was just that, the distributor shaft isn’t oriented correctly. I moved the distributor passed the plates restrictions to get it started. @w3wilkes thank you for sharing that. I may message them, because like a lot of people I’m sure, I don’t really want to drop the oil pump.

You might want to check the reputation of the Epoch Times. Not pretty.

I've got a pair that have never been fitted Zup if you still need them. NOS that came with my car. Alwaays wondered where they were fitted.

Decided to rebuild the front and rear suspension on my 73 Z. Decided to splurge and buy the Koni Yellows, and Eibach progressive springs. Going mostly rubber bushings instead of poly since it's mainly for pleasure driving. Going to tackle the front first. I wasn't planning on dropping the subframe, but couldn't remove the lower control arm bolts without hitting the rack. Made a couple metal bars and used the anti-sway bar bracket bolt holes to support a piece of wood, which held the engine up resting on the oil pump. Easier than dragging out my engine lift. Sand blasted the subframe and repainted. I used poly bushings for the rack mounts. To remove the LCA bushings I drilled a couple holes through the rubber, then used a coping saw to saw around the rubber to remove. Then cut inside of the outer bushing steel with a hacksaw as suggested in other threads. To remove and install new bushings I used a 35 mm deep socket on the bottom, and a 1" socket on the top. The 35 mm seems to support the welded in A-arm bushing good to support it without deforming the LCA. When I dropped the Koni's into the strut housing, I had a 6 mm gap instead the required 1-4 mm. Called MSA and they quickly shipped a set of the gland nuts with the relief cut, which got it down to 3 mm. I guess Nissan had a few different suppliers for the strut housings, which made them slightly different. Here's the only way I could figure out how to hold the strut while torquing the gland nuts. Used an aluminum block with just enough pressure to keep it from turning. Here's the assembled pair ready to go. Cleaned up the wheel wells with Simple Green and a brush. Looks pretty good without the dirt and grime. New ball joints and tie rod ends too. Ken

Hey thought I toss this out there. I’m in the UK and parts of Europe for the next week+ for work. I know we have some regulars on the forum from the old world and I thought I see if I’m going to be near any of you. I’m currently in Nottingham, UK. Will have about 90 hrs off here for the weekend. Flying to Liege, Belgium (staying in Maastricht, Netherlands) and also have a layover in Basel, Switzerland for about 17 hrs later next week. If anyone is near those areas let me know if you want to get a coffee and meet up. On the Covid front....Good to see the world opening back up. Stores and restaurants are open over here. Sitting in a diner now having a proper English breakfast...they eat baked bean with their eggs? When In Rome...you know the rest! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Uber rare Ejection Seat Detonator!

Thanks for posting this, looking forward to reading your future update. My strut definitely needs replacing. Cheers, Mike

It looks like the same company has a new hatch strut for the 260-280z models. This might also work with a 240z, my 73 model appears to have a similar design (although just 1 strut). https://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/strong-arm-4777-gas-charged-hatchback-lift-support/ I ordered a set, I'll update when they get here.

I think that pyramid chart is skewed... the centre should be the left side lol. BBC and NPR have gone that way long ago.... CBC is a cesspool.

So I also understand that this whole thing is like trying to "prove reality". What is reality, and how do you prove it? It's philosophy. For all you know, you are currently in a coma laying in a hospital right now and this is all a dream. You had a bad car accident six months ago and none of this is real. You might wake up tomorrow and find that all of this has been a dream. You really just can't prove it. So I guess I'm just trying to attach some kind of objective guide to a subjective life because that's all I got. If I don't know what to believe or who to trust, my conservative nature turns me to the long standing big names in media that have a long standing reputation and skin in the game. If a couple big names in media all say the same thing, then I give it credence. And if a situation gets beyond that, the courts decide. All the new on-line sources that have been around for just a couple years. With patriotic sounding names. Not going there. Either side leaning. So you might call me a sheeple, right? Following the old-school establishment? While others are being lured off to the side by someone whispering sweet nothings in their ear... "follow me... everyone else is fake." So I gotta ask... Who's the sheeple?

thanks. Got it ordered. should i put grease in everything around the sleeve and fork. Also this might be a good time to drain all the tranny fluids? Anybody used seafoam? been hearing thats good to use but what i saw said automatic transmission on bottle...i have a standard

The bypass valve in the filter is to allow oil to be supplied to the engine in the event that the filter becomes clogged enough that it can no longer pass oil sent to it by the pump. With the multi viscosity oils of today, on cold startup the viscosity of the oil is low enough that the bypass shouldn’t be opening. Clogging of the filter media to the point that the bypass opens happens one of two ways. 1. The car is neglected and maintenance ignored for so long that the lubricating oil becomes so fouled with dirt and carbon (carbon is what makes the oil black over time) that the filter becomes clogged and oil can no longer flow through it in enough volume to keep the engine lubricated. 2. A component fails (bearing, piston skirt, rings and ring lands from detonation, etc.), and the resulting debris gets forced into the filter and it becomes clogged enough to block the flow of oil. In either case, bearing damage will result. And we all know what happens next.

RockAuto carries them. Called "Main / Output Shaft Seal" , the National Brand # 710324 costs $4.20 each + shipping. https://www.rockauto.com/?carcode=1209260&parttype=8792

Logan Blackburn - IMSA @ Road Atlanta…

Ha! Good idea! And the other side was an easy 20 minute job! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I finally put this to use while restoring the rear end cosmetics. See pic:

Update! Got the parts from @dutchzcarguy, after they took a leisurely world tour through several postal systems. Put them on today.

Oh. Ya. And if it was the ballast then I would never get a spark. That’s possibly why last owner was messing with dizzy.

No new threads. Today’s job get tdc. Hook up plugs right. Put in dizzy correct Check ballast resistor. Follow wire diagram in fsm. See if I get spark.

Once this part is figured out it's on to carburetors! 😀

I think it's always a good idea to preoil an engine before firing. All the way up to the cam

Well first of all, let me be clear that I'm no lubrication expert, but now that I've got a couple more minutes, let me try to explain a little bit. First of all, I think the premise that both the static and dynamic pressure are involved is incorrect. Since the bypass valve is around just the filter media, the static pressure should have no effect at all. The only pressure that should matter is the differential pressure across the filter media. Any static pressure should come out immediately in the math. Second, I would claim that the differential pressure across the filter media (assuming that media is clean) is not high enough to open the bypass valve. You might say "But what about a cold engine just started then... The cold thick oil would be harder to push through the filter media thereby creating a higher differential pressure across that media". And to that, I would say "Yes, but don't forget that cold thick oil would also be harder to push through all the bearing clearances and oil passageways, which would increase the pressure on the clean (outlet) side of the filter, thereby keeping the differential about the same." As evidence, I would cite the oil pressure gauge. It's on the outlet clean of the oil filter. It's higher when the engine is cold and the oil is thick. And the higher the outlet side, the lower the differential pressure across the media. And on the inlet side... the pressure into the filter is limited at the top end by the pressure relief valve inside the oil pump. That's my non-expert take.