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Cooper260z

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Everything posted by Cooper260z

  1. Alright then. I’ll put those wires back and get another tachometer. Thanks!
  2. @Zed Head I thought this car should’ve had points originally? It runs quite well, it drives, idles great and starts right up. Just the other day I moved the wires off the ballast resister block (is that what it’s called?) because I thought that those were for points and I don’t have those. As for the gauge, the gauge lights work, the left arrow indicator blinks, right arrow doesn’t blink and the tach doesn’t move
  3. Right you are @Zed Head! So the pictures show the block inside the distributor and that there is no box on the outside of the distributor. (Disregard that water block off. Haven’t fixed that yet) the blue wire is on the coil negative, the inline resister for the tach is present and plugged in (previously wasn’t plugged in) and the tach has voltage at the positive and negative posts and the red and black wire. So I think the tach should be working unless the gauge itself is broken
  4. Disclaimer: I don’t know what exactly has been done to this car as far as modifications though I don’t think it’s much. And I’m not great with wiring At first I was thinking I had a zx distributor but if it was a zx distributor wouldn’t it have a little box on the radiator side of the distributor? But the igniter(?) Block inside the distributor doesn’t say pertronix on it so I don’t think that’s what it is And then my tach currently doesn’t work but I have voltage at the red/black wire on the tach, that varies with rpm so I think that means I’m getting tach signal and it should be working. So does that mean the tachometer itself is just broken?
  5. @Zed Head after reading what you said and looking at the mechanism multiple times, I understand how it should work now. When I Installed the new wheel cylinders, the adjustment arms that move the wheel did not contact the wheel at first. If I bend the arms so that they do contact the wheel do I run the risk of altering the point at which the arm will stop moving the wheel? Or as long as I’m bending the arm upwards to contact the wheel and not bending it inwards or outwards, will it still operate the way it should? my dad keeps Instilling the fear in me that the shoes will just keep adjusting out until the drums seize and then I’m stuck somewhere
  6. @Terrapin Z but if you turn the adjuster until it doesn’t turn anymore, would the drum not be seized tight?
  7. I couldn’t get the handbrake to adjust the shoes reliably, but I adjusted them manually so that if I put the wheel on and give it a quick spin it rotates for between a ¼ to ½ a revolution which I think is what some older forum posts suggested. My handbrake still clicks about 5 times though and there is more drag on the drums than I would set if I was adjusting them on another car. is this an acceptable setting? I haven’t tried driving the car like this yet
  8. @Mark Maras the hole will line up with the wheel, my worry was that I wouldn’t be able to rotate the drum to get it lined up If it got adjusted too tight
  9. Cool, sounds good to me. Thanks @Zed Head I’ll give it a try
  10. Hello again. I’m new to Z cars and trying to learn about how they work. I’ve done some Research and come to the conclusion that I probably adjusted the drums incorrectly when I replaced all the parts. I’ve been reading about how when properly adjusted the drums shouldn’t turn much at all? This contradicts how I’ve been adjusting drums on other cars so could someone explain why this is how it’s done? The new wheel cylinders I installed did not actuate the star wheel to adjust the brakes when I got them so I played around with them and got them to adjust the brakes by pulling the parking brake, but was worried that they’d adjust out so far that the drum would just get stuck, and if it gets stuck with the adjustment hole not at the star wheel then how are you supposed to get the drum off? And if the proper spec is for the shoes to be tight against the drum then how do the shoes not get wasted quickly by rubbing when you aren’t even touching the brakes? I've found information on how people say to adjust the brakes, but not why that works, so I apologize if this has been discussed before but I couldn’t find it. And again, that process just goes against my previous experiences, so I’d love to know why these cars are different.
  11. Thanks for the tips! And looks like quite the clean car @LeonV if that is yours
  12. @dutchzcarguy thank you for that, I was a bit unsure. Do you have pictures or more specifics on where you lift it so I can do it properly
  13. So this car seems very complete and mostly original. Normally my mindset would be to remove the smog equipment, like the air pump and the charcoal canister. But I feel like since everything is there it’s almost kinda sad to take it out. Do these parts even work anymore? Does anyone els need them? Would I get style points for having a cluttered engine bay? I’m undecided so far
  14. @Captain Obvious that 2002 is my dads, but I have a couple also. That’s what I started with. My first car was ‘69 2002 that I bought before even had a learners permit. It was fine because it needed a lot of work before I could drive it. Love that car
  15. @LeonV wow that’s a close vin! I would be interested in a bumper but the budget is tight right now. Too many cars and not enough money kind of thing. I’m sure I’ll need something eventually though, I’ll be sure to ask. thanks @grannyknot that’s what I like to hear. I love a good forum community @wadelester My dad does body and metal work so I understand what it takes to do that stuff, and I understand that I’d prefer not to. But I could do it, and I’m taking automotive painting at the community college I go to. So given enough time and money, it could get to looking pretty nice. And the underside of the car looks very nice.The floors are a bit pushed in, but no rust
  16. @heyitsrama thanks! I’ll send you a message sometime for sure
  17. @Mark Maras The plan for now is just to get it running and driving well. Then I’d like it to be a bit lower, better wheels and triple carbs look pretty cool and fun. But that stuff will be later. And I still want a 240Z too, but this car seems too solid to get rid of right now. @heyitsrama Hey, maybe we can get together sometime! I don’t have any Datsun buddies yet. The vin is 023321its a February ‘74 car. @wheee! Gotta have an extinguisher, especially with the new unknown cars.
  18. I’ve made another thread for a general overview of the car for anyone to point out anything they see of interest or concern, if anyone is interested
  19. Hello, my name is cooper, I’m 18 and this is my ‘74 260z I recently bought. I've wanted a 240Z for a few years now, but when I saw an ad on Craigslist for a 260z being parted out that was a complete A/C car that had been in a garage for 25 years, I thought that was just absurd and made a deal to buy the whole car. This is my first Z but not my first project car so I at least think I kind of know what I’m doing a bit. I have a basic idea if nothing els. The pictures show the current state of the car, just a bit different from how I picked it up. I’ve cleaned it a bit in an attempt to get the smell of rat pee out, I’ve removed the carpet and the Louvres but otherwise it looks the same as it did when I got it. The car is very solid, has minimal rust and is pretty straight. Since I’m not familiar with these cars yet I’d like the opinions of some people that are. Like if anything stands out as surprising, or cool or absolutely terrible, let me know I’d love to hear it! I have already started working on it, I’ve done the brakes and put in some new ignition parts in, It does run and drive now. Runs surprisingly well too. Doesn’t stop quite as well but I’m still working on that
  20. Thanks! I’ve done some brake and ignition work so far. It runs surprisingly well for having been sitting for so long and having old vacuum lines. But I still have some more work to do before I really start driving it. the pedal covers still have a good bit of life left in them. Minus the missing gas pedal cover that I assume is supposed to be there. Thanks @Mike For the resources! I will check them all out
  21. Thank you everybody for the replies. @jerz that’s the kind of thing I was looking for. Thank you. I come from bmw 2002s where I can at least find a reference for everything but I don’t know the resources for these cars yet. im not opposed to straying away from stock. I’ll likely get a set of round tops since it seems like these carbs are just prone to being unreliable from what I’ve read. But I was hoping that I’d be able find this hose in this country at least. side note, off topic (maybe I should make a new thread, or do more searching.) i got a hold of a nearly complete l24 long block, minus carbs but it has the balance tube and intake. If I go with round tops, would it be easiest to use the l24 intake and or balance tube? And then a couple pictures since you asked, kinda. It looks a bit worse when you get a little closer, but it’s a very solid car. Very minimal rust, mostly complete, I obviously can’t confirm that the odometer is correct but because of how clean it is I’m slightly inclined to believe the 60,xxx miles it reads.
  22. Hello, I’m new to this forum and Z cars. I got a 260z that was sitting in a garage for 25 years, and as a result some of the hoses are very brittle. I took the air filter housing off and accidentally broke the hose that goes between the carbs and I can’t seem to find a replacement hose online. I could probably just go to a store and get one that fits but wanted to see if I can find a stock molded replacement first. The hose is sort of “U” shaped, and is a larger diameter where it attaches to the carb on the front of the engine. Any help is appreciated, thank you. Side note: I’d also like to replace all the other hoses here, so if someone knows of a kit that I can buy that has all of them, that would be good too
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