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Everything posted by Cooper260z

  1. @Trnelson I don’t have any pictures or specs to help you out too much, but I found a threaded plug that was already at my house that fit. But there is still an open port on one of the manifolds because I ran out of plugs, but I’m pretty sure that the water passage is separate from the air passage so leaving the ports open doesn’t effect how the car runs
  2. @Frankenstein Yes this fixed my problem. With the booster off the car I was able to shake and look in it and eventually find the disc, then I used a long sewing needle to stick it and carefully extract it. Then super glued it back on to the push rod
  3. Took the booster off, thankfully it was much easier then what I’m used to with bmw 2002 boosters. Got the disc out, super glued it back on, put it back together and the brake pedal no longer goes to the floor! I’ll have to do some road testing and see if the push rod needs to be adjusted, but now I can comfortably start shaking the car down! Thanks for the help everyone, and I’ll keep faulty hydraulic parts in mind also.
  4. Thanks @Patcon a pick did the trick! Now I’ll see if I can fish the disc out without removing the booster
  5. so if I get the right grip and leverage on the pushrod, I should be able to just pull it out? It hasn’t come out so far from my pulling, and I obviously don’t want to damage the metal ring or rubber seal. If that’s the deal though then I’ll do my best to get it out. I do have an FSM, and it doesn’t mention pulling the pushrod out by this method, that I’ve seen
  6. so if I take the master cylinder off, this is the view of the booster (first picture.) is there a way to get further into the booster while it’s on the car, to see if that disc has fallen off? Also, I don’t know if it’s worth noting, but if I pull the rod out I can feel it slide out of whatever is inside there to guide it, and after that it just kinda flops around (second picture) i don’t know if that’s normal
  7. i have bled the master cylinder. I’ve put a total of maybe 50 miles on the car but I have not noticed any loss of brake fluid. I’ll have someone step on the pedal while I watch the fluid like that article says
  8. When the car is not running, stepping on the pedal provides the normal feeling of stepping on the brake pedal when a car is off, it’s harder to press and stops at some point. The pedal does slowly sink to the floor in this scenario. Though with the car off if I press the pedal as hard as I can, it gets stuck for like half a second before coming back up and a bit of a clunk can be heard. the booster is stock I believe and pumping the brakes with the car running provides no additional effects. Im interested in looking into the piece that Falles off of the push rod since that’s common, I’ll look up how to do that later on when I have time. Im not ruling out a bad MC, I’m just trying out the things that I can before going that route
  9. @Patcon nope. If you press the brake pedal when the car isn’t running it feels like a normal pedal, but when it’s running it just goes to the floor and doesn’t change.
  10. Yes. No. No. Short answer, I can rule those things out. Didn’t know that about the brake light showing a pressure imbalance, that’s good to know
  11. if memory serves though, the rod won’t just come straight out of the booster, so I assume there’s some step that I’m missing to get it out. I’ll get out there soon but if you know what step I’m missing to get the rod out that would be great info.
  12. The soft brake lines I also replaced. I replaced with new rubber lines because I didn’t have the budget for stainless at the time and to the best of my knowledge they’re bled properly, brake fluid comes out clean. And I’ve adjusted the push rod, that was another step that got to my current scenario. @Terrapin Z I’ve heard about that disc in the booster before, how would I check for that?
  13. @Terrapin Z thank you, I hadn’t heard of that before. But I just checked and both bleed screws are on the top, so that’s not it.
  14. I’ve done some looking but haven’t found anyone describing this particular scenario. My car is an early 74 260z, I replaced the rotors, pads, rebuilt the calipers, new drums, shoes and hardware as well as new wheel cylinders and master cylinder. The brakes work pretty well though they don’t lock up the wheels but they don’t have very many miles on them so I don’t expect them to yet. The brakes work but the issue is that the pedal has nearly no resistance when depressing it while the car is running, it just goes to the floor. The braking force increases the further the pedal travels, the pedal just doesn’t get harder to press like you’d expect. The only thing that I can think of is maybe I don’t have the correct master cylinder? I bought it off rock auto rather then a Datsun oriented site. The front fluid reservoir feeds the rear brakes and the rear reservoir feeds the front and the master cylinder has “⅞” cast into it. So maybe it’s the wrong size? The car is very drivable as is but isn’t very confidence inspiring like I’d prefer it to be when it eventually hits the backroads. Thanks in advance!
  15. For anyone in the future, I bought the wheels and they clear just fine!
  16. I’m looking at buying a set of hayashi racing wheels, the specs are 15x7 +4 with 205/50 tires. Maybe someone has experience with this spec and could tell me if they will fit without spacers. The suspension on the car is all stock currently, so the top of the fender isn’t a worry, just if they’ll rub on the struts or something like that. Thanks!
  17. don’t worry about it @AK260 in a way this is pretty directly related to what I was asking (or at least to the reason why I was asking the question) so it’s all worked out
  18. Yeah, what zedhead said. Looks simple enough that even I could make it and looks effective. I’ll probably try to make one sometime, I like the idea of replacing the strap with a mount like that. But now is not the time for that, for me. however, now is the right time for me to try out cheap diagnosis! So I’ll give this a shot!
  19. i like the RT mount but if I was going to make my own then I’d go with the nylon strap, which I never came across in my previous google searches. Too bad he never got around to sharing the length of the strap that he made. And I wonder how difficult it is to remove the old strap and install a new one without dropping the diff. Clearly it’s doable, though.
  20. Currently the car has a fair amount of noise from the rear end when driving, most notably but not limited to when starting from a stop. Since I have these bushings I was thinking of seeing if that would fix the rear end noise since I don’t have the budget to replace the diff mount and strap yet. That diff strap alternative (if I’m understanding it correctly) is pretty interesting. I’ll keep that in mind when I’m ready to replace those, thank you
  21. Quick question. I have a mustache bar that I believe to be for an r200. My car doesn’t have an r200, i have no need for this bar at this time, but I do want the new bushings that this bar has and I’m pretty sure that their the two piece style so they should be able to be pulled out. So the question is, is the diameter of the bushing slot the same as the bar in my stock 260z? (r180) I think they’re the same, I’d just like to confirm before I take the rear end apart (again) that I will be able to put these bushings in the 260z mustache bar.
  22. if I can get a hold of the 240z linkage then I’ll use that balance tube, but I do have the 240z throttle opener if it would make a difference but at face value they seem the same. I feel like a bit of a bother at this point but do you know the correct way to attach the throttle opener linkage? The only way I see to attach it leaves that adjustment screw linkage piece suspended independently. Or are you saying that there isn’t really a way to do it because of my amalgamation of parts going on here?
  23. Thank you @Mark Maras I will after I plug the air injection inlet so that I can concentrate on something other then the large exhaust leak in front of me. And while I wait on that, I’m looking at the linkage to this diaphragm. (That wasn’t meant to sound snarky or rude, if it did I apologize) So, I got the linkage from the l24 which I now see is significantly longer. Is this the proper configuration? Suspending the adjustment screw on the front carburetor?
  24. Alright, so this piece of linkage that connects to this bar is what was keeping the linkage from returning all the way. I’m not sure what this mechanism is for yet but clearly these linkages aren’t completely compatible with each other. Also I’m not sure exactly what order these flats are supposed to go in, maybe that’s my issue. But disconnecting that linkage fixed it! So I guess the reason that it was idling at sich high rpm was simply because the throttle was being held open... who woulda guessed. So with that detached the car will idle and be responsive so I can try to dial the carbs in and fix some other issues I can already see!
  25. Yes the second vacuum port on the manifold broke, I tried filling the hole with epoxy to seal it but that’s where we’ve found a vacuum leak when spraying brake clean in the area. I noticed that the linkage isn’t going all the way “home” I’ll say, and isn’t lining up with the service idle adjustment screw but I haven’t figured out why yet. I hadn’t noticed that connection but being bent before, it does look a bit tweaked, I’ll check that out. But this is the correct (I’m pretty sure) linkage for a 240z. With the flat tops the car did run quite well. I just noticed a few hiccups that I decided we’re likely carburetor based which is part of the reason why I was making the switch. So yes, using how the engine ran with the flat tops as a baseline, it should idle and drive fine. Maybe the tweaked throttle linkage is the main issue, I suppose that could explain the high idle but not the sudden idle jump and climb I don’t think. Also doesn’t explain the extremely low idle I don’t think
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