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This one from "The Point"

The Finkelstein Kid. This is funny!

In the first picture the strut looks like the gland nut has come loose and the strut cartage is up inside the spring area. The second pic look more correct as you can see the nut and just the inner piston is in the spring area. Here is a pic of the strut cartage so you can see the inner and outer parts.

I drove the car around the block to see how it feels... Oh boy the shifter feels way better. @EuroDat I think your onto something about not using brass bushings in the shifter. When experimenting with an extra shifter that I had I noticed that the brass bushings that I made are not an interference fit to the striker rod ears like the new OEM ones are, I think this also accounted for some of the rattle that i heard. I do want to install the brass one back in at some point to see how it compares to new bushings. But I am pretty happy with the setup so far. I'm not sure if the leaky seal was also contributing to rattle, it feels like in theory it could because the striker-rod was just floating around the seal in the housing, if anything it might have tightened up the shifter feeling, it no longer feels like there is a "one-two-click in gear" its more of a solid throw.

I was just listening to the album the other day.

Movie Theme? A little Heavy Metal

The rest of that thread is great and also has a link to "Against All Odds, vintage racing footage of John Morton smoking the Alfa's.

Very successful u-joint install on the transmission yoke with the ROCKFORD #430-10 kit. Pressed in beautifully with my small hand arbor press. The only tricky part is rotating the clips so that you have the maximum contact between the yoke and the clip. Some patience and very gentle persuasion seemed to work well with that process. I will now proceed with removing the differential end u-joint from the shaft, clean the yoke cap surfaces, then finish cleaning, priming, and finish coating the driveshaft, before installing both joints. I did not want to waste the time removing the other end until I was confident the new joints would work on the " NON-SERVICEABLE" driveshaft. I will keep you updated as the slow progress continues. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC,

What happens when you rub your eye?😂 Do you go bug eye?

I had a graft on my eye lid after a welding accident. He got the pliable skin off my penis and it all worked out perfect. He did say I may be a little c o c k eyed temporarily.

I was curious about why my one measurement was different that site's. So I measured again. Must of had the mic cockeyed.

What a great show. Loved the line "he's got a point, you know". And then there's the Rock Man, "you see what you want to see and you hear what you want to hear".

I need to get some carb parts out for another guy, while I have the carb box out, I will look at the 3 screw valves and see what's in there.

Agreed. That was a fun read (even for those of us who didn't grow up in the Fraser Valley). Nice to a mention of my old racing acquaintance from Kelowna, Keis Neirop (1983 Sebring winner and also responsible for the only all-wood 240Z rotisserie that I've ever seen). I poked around on the internet this morning and tracked down the location of the old Chilliwak Datsun dealership. As someone else on the linked thread pointed out, it's now only a shadow of its old self, reincarnated as 'Campus Auto Sales' and 'Classic Cars'. You can clearly identify the original showroom building by its roofline (looks like a little mini-racecar in the display area), with the service department entry to the left. The building behind the trophy girl with the big 'Datsun' logo would be the long wall on the right, now painted red.

Yeah I had a 71 mach 1, but that thing was so rusted, I sold it, and bought a 70

I don't reget it yet. It's getting old though really quick.

Yes, the one below. This is the OD-Reverse Synchronizer Slider (in hand) and Hub (circled). The photo was taken from the rear of the transmission facing forward, and the the synchronizer hub is clearly oriented with the concentric groove aft, which is opposite of the diagram in the FSM.

Oh, Socal is the hotspot for Z's baby... Parts from Motorsport Auto http://zcarparts.com/ Check into service from Les over at Classic Datsun - http://classicdatsun.com/

Thought you all might appreciate this 240z Buyer’s Guide video Hagerty’s put out 2 days ago. I think he misses a few finer points but overall he makes a good case for why one should buy and own on of these beauties.

Something completely different. Sorry.

@EuroDat Chas, I have been unable to locate a replacement reverse idler. What steps do I need to take to make this more serviceable? We also started tear down yesterday. I built a gear tree out of some material we had laying around

Thank the LORD my wife is home and semi functional from the spinal fusion surgery. I was able to wander out to the shop and got the front staked in u joint removed. Used the Dremel tool to grind off the stakes the best I could followed with some heat and some pretty aggressive pounding with a proper sized socket. I was not able to remove either cap but got one side as far out as possible and then carefully cut the exposed cross with the die grinder. Followed the same cutting procedure to remove the cross from the slip yoke. The caps easily pressed inward with minimal pressure. Touched up the stake points with the Dremel and polished the yoke surfaces with sanding barrel. I may run the brake cylinder hone through them later. I will be ordering the joints from Rockford Drive Lines very soon. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC.

Some research found that Rockford Drive Lines 815-962-1411-has developed a whole series of u joints for the many vehicles that have staked in, "non serviceable" driveshafts. They have a very informative website, but the installation instructions are a bit generic in nature. According to the specifications as well as the vehicle application chart found on their site, the staked in Z models can be replaced with #430-10 which includes the inner retainer clips and the grease zerk that is installed in one of the caps. The specs are listed in standard sizes. .867 cap size which is 22mm and the lock up dimension of 1.4. Measuring my joints and yokes reveals an exact match. I will keep you posted on the progress which will be slow. My wife is having major surgery-spinal fusion-next week, and that obviously will be my top priority along with my job in the coming weeks. We are just trusting the LORD for the whole outcome and recovery. Hope this info may be a help to some others with an actual part number and reputable supplier. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC.