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That's exactly what they did starting in 77. They went back to vents on both sides (as opposed to 75 and 76 which only had the vent on the right side) and changed the intake location from the front of the car to inside the cowl area instead. Just another reason why 77 is better.

Hello folks, After 23 years of ownership I am considering parting with my Z car. However, I'm a little stumped on how to determine a price point. I know original cars can bring good money on BAT and know basket cases can be had relatively cheaply but mine is neither. It has some rust and some repairs that I'm not happy with, but I don't believe any are detrimental. I have the original engine but have it pulled due to low compression on one cylinder and there's a Datsun Spirit SRT stage 1 engine currently in the car. The car has an auto transmission, but I have a 4 speed as well as a close ratio ZX 5 speed waiting installation. And so on and so forth. Thanks in advance for any constructive input on how to value. Cheers, Scot

Tires and wheels came in and I just got them mounted and balanced. These tires look pretty nice. Overall I’m happy when you consider the total cost for everything including shipping and mounting was $901. That’s hard to beat. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The automatic will of course detract from the cars ultimate value to prospective buyers, as you elude to. You don't say if you plan to install the 5 speed pre-sale or simply include it with the car. In the end, it's a modified 72 and without more detailed pictures, my guess on value is in the 20 to 25k range. As psdenno has indicated, BAT is a good reference for approximate values. Here is a example : https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-156/

Have you checked the fuel filters inside the banjo fittings that are on the top of the float bowls? They could explain fuel in the fuel lines but not enough entering the bowls. Carbs really don't need much fuel pressure. They'll even run fine using a gravity feed.

With the various possible engine and transmission options you mention, the value could vary considerably. Have you looked for a similar car on the Bring A Trailer auction site? What engine and trans will it eventually have as that will be a huge factor in determining a price? How's the interior? Dennis

Thanks for the advice. I opened the banjo up to find a bunch of garbage in there filters looked fine but there was a lot of crud in there. I cleaned it up and later today I’ll see if it does anything thanks.

Here's my '72s and you can see the different heights. The DVD that came with my rebuild kit talks about stacking washers to make up the difference. The valves they sale now are the same length where the OEs are different. I guess Steve is saying you can make up the difference bending the floats? I had a helluva time with mine and ended up using two shorter rear lids like the earlier 4 screw SUs. One of the best things I've done to my carbs. I read the reason for the newer difference in heights was to make up for acceleration and the fuel going to the back side of the front bowl. I've never had any problem with fuel starvation after I got the floats right.

Im fairly new to the 280z world myself and currently working on getting mine running. But a thought could be the cold start valve or thermotime switch? Checking with a multimeter would be a good start.

https://www.tires-easy.com/blog/what-are-the-red-and-yellow-dots-on-my-tires/

Yep, answered my own question. Went out and sprayed it with electronic cleaner and pushed it on and off a handful of times and then did it again and now I'm showing a reading. Engine is still slightly warm from earlier, showing about 1.5 resistance at ecu now. It's too late to start it and see how it runs but I'll try tomorrow!

My thought is If the A/F numbers look that good, I wouldn't worry much about the plugs being light. I've heard (read on the internets) that the old method of reading plugs doesn't work so great on todays fuel using leaner ratios. Burns so clean that lighter colors often result. That toasty brown doesn't happen as much as it used to? How many miles you have on the plugs? I guess if you're thinking it might be a relic of a previous situation, you could buy new plugs and have a fresh read. As for the ignition box, I don't know anything about it. Hopefully someone else can chime in.

You'll find them in Factory A/C 260Z's and 280Z's. Mine has one that mounts under the steering column. Can't tell if it had one for the passenger cuz the ducting was all gone (destroyed by the Arizona heat) from that side. Mostly gone from the driver side too but the tee to the "foot vent" was still there. I have several of those plastic vent outlets in the shop as I tend to horde stock A/C parts. My son's 76 also has similar plumbing. And, no, the tubing that goes to those small foot vents is not rigid - it's flexible ~1 1/4" vent tubing. Like the larger stock vent tubing it was insulated. The answer(s) to low vent airflow in the 260Z/280Z are: Kia blower upgrade and replacing the stock center duct diverter with an UltraHeaven replacement. I hope Lucas (the engineer who designed this amazing ductwork improvement) will soon be selling those to all you 260/280 owners. I have the prototype in Goldie and airflow out the center vents is DRASTICALLY improved while maintaining stock airflow out the side vents...

I’ve seen those; $200 is so expensive for that piece. 😔 i saw this online, but the mounting still has me a bit confused, it looks like a 3” duct can be used. I should have gotten into the rock collection hobby instead.

I've got the thought processes of an 18 year old so maybe I can help. Fuel, fire and air are the main 3 things needed to run a combustion engine. You need to get them all working but can do so one at time. Get a good battery, unhook the small solenoid wire on the starter. That should let the fuel pump run without cranking the car. Pull the hose off the top of the filter on the passenger's side up front in the engine bay. Put it in an empty gas can and see if you have a good flow of fuel. Pull a spark plug and turn the motor over to look and see if you have a good spark. Take the air filter out for testing. Clean any debris out of the air box. Not necessarily in that order but you'll have to do those basic things no matter what. I would put a new filter on and some new 10w30 oil. Get the cheap stuff at walmart if the car hasn't run in awhile. Clean the spark plugs before buying new ones. Clean all the grounds on the engine as described here... https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html Read this on vacuum leaks... https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/airleaks/index.html Let us know what you find out. I wouldn't fall into the trap I did buying up a bunch of parts you don't need.

I'm going to guess that the Tonneau cover was the owner's idea, and they can't see how it really looks. Wonder what it sounds like. No offense intended if you're a member here. But it has to be noisy. And leak in the rain.

Very good info guys and links, too - can never have too much info. I really like the idea of splitting the tank as @240dkw did. You get completely unfettered access to everything for cleaning, blasting, and body work and the fillet gives a nice place to run a weld line. Going through the top seems less invasive, but really limits access and hammer/dolly work would be much harder around the baffles. I suppose in the end, if I'm in for a penny, I might as well be in for a pound. A weld is a weld and all welds must be done properly with no porosity or voids. So, as @Patcon suggested, welding a 30" perimeter or 100" is really not any harder - just more costly (wire, gas, and time). Besides, @240dkw missed a chance to measure pick-up height 😉 and (unless I forget) I can do it when I open it up. Submit requests now 😁

Hello I am a new 240z owner. I won an auction on BaT back on 2/9 and the car arrived here just a couple of weeks ago. The car was the orange 72...pretty much all original and it was as advertised by the former owner. Attached is a photo as it came off the trailer. In the first couple of shake down drives most things seem in order. I have already acquired a set of stock hub caps and I am looking for a set of stock wheels...a 2/72 date would be really nice. I am not totally new to Z’s but it has been a long time. I owned an orange 72 240 back in 72 and a 260 from 74-80. I had been looking for the right car for a few years now. Buying a car without looking at it was a bit scary but the community comments on BaT gave me some confidence. I look forward to enjoying my Z and meeting any owners from Northern VA. I also look forward of being a member of this forum. Thanks Jim

It’s just stuff. Nothing replaces the value of family, friends and health. My mother-in-law went into hospice today, We’d trade it all to get her back. The grass is only greener where you can be with the people you love and care about otherwise it’s all brown no matter how big the house is or how any toys you have. I’ll trade the Viper for the 240 🤫

I (we) went back and got a better look at the white 240. It turned out to be an early 260 with a sunroof and possibly a missing cowell. The little of the body that I can see looks straight. Being a 260 kinda took some of the wind out of my sails as well as Kathy reminding me I've already got an unfinished early 260. If anyone is interested in it, it's on Foster Road near I-205 in SE Portland. I have the address and the owners name (who doesn't sell anything according to a neighbor) if anyone out there is interested.