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A very good point on weight Chris. Aside from a few finishing touches on the underside and maybe install the rear wheel cylinders and connect the brake lines, it's about to come off the rotisserie and transfer to the 2 post lift to get the front suspension, rack etc on and back on the ground.

Just a word of caution about the amount of weight you reinstall on the car before it comes off the rotisserie, the bumper mounts can easily handle the weight of a stripped shell but would hate to see what happens if you reach the limit.

Fits!!

Well, my '78 was loaded today and is headed for Phoenix. I got the race car done and ready to sell, so I finally took a few pics of my cars together for the first time. As for the fate of the race car, I *might* have a plan that allows me to keep it. A fellow Z racer in Atlanta might be willing to take the car back to his place and race prep it. When I want to race, I'll fly in and race it with him. That way, I don't lose the car, but I don't have to take it with me where I have no space for it.

Continuing my fuel rail path. Hopefully cutting this week.

I’m on a work trip, presently sitting in a hotel in Nottingham, England. The country is on a extreme lockdown. Nothing is open and can’t dine in or out. So being trapped in my hotel room during the day my credit card burning in my pocket as I shop for stuff for the Z online. In the days of COVID it seems supplies are limited in many things, especially wheels and tires. Was looking at Konig Rewinds and Rota Rbr but it’s seems the wheel world is on back order in most places including MSA. Now I’m looking at tires,. Same problem on many tires I’m interested in, I wanted to see what tires you guys are running and feedback. Here are the ones I’m looking at: 1. Dunlop Direzza (reviews online are average) 2. BFG g-force comp 2 a/s (complaints of road noise) 3. Yokohama advan v701 (replaces s Drives) 4. Bridgestone Potenza (most expensive) 5. Continental Extreme Contact (even more expensive) Looking for a quiet summer tire, don’t care about tread life or wet performance because I won’t drive in the weather. After a lot of reading in the forums I’ve decided to go with 205/55R16, to preserve OE wheel diameter. Debated a 15” and would go with 205/60R15 if I went that direction,. My current tires are 14” and old a dry rotted, wheels are crap too. This decision is long overdue. So in light of new tires available on the market today and some of the old faithfuls I’ve read about in the forum no longer available I’d like to update the topic and see where we are in 2021 in the Z tire world. Thanks,

I know Rodney well. He lives a few miles from me, and we have hung out together several times. I first met him at The Mitty at Road Atlanta around 8 years ago or so. He had the future ZMW on display in the Vendor Village.

For only occasional use what about a copper coil in a bucket of ice?

Cool. Who's your friend in Atlanta? I live half an hour away from Road Atlanta.

Thanks again. The urethane primer is over a variety of surfaces - an older, roughed-up repaint, some filler topped with rattle-can high-build primer, etc. The primer was sprayed on a couple of weeks ago. I'm looking around for more drying solutions. At the moment, I have a small desiccant dryer at the gun, feeding a regulator at the gun. I was indeed able to sand down the donuts with some clearcoat left.

Here's one that sold last year for $70,000. Only 11 miles on the clock though. https://www.facebook.com/SoCMATADOR/posts/10156999839761576 I'd guess around $30,000 if it's nice.

Thanks for the comments. Patcon, you have a good point about the air. I'm using a cheap in-line drier right at the gun, and the humidity here in Houston has been 110% for the last few days. I have had situations where the gun would literally drip water droplets, making huge puddles in the paint. But perhaps there are other variations on the water problem. Better drying solutions are a good bit more expensive, but I will look into it before I do much more. Mark, I've had fish-eye experience before as well, when I didn't properly prep the primer with a proper wipe-down with liquid sander or the equivalent. But my experience was that the fish-eyes formed immediately while you're spraying. I've got the inside of the doors that I can experiment further on before I do the more critical parts.

Great advice everyone. I should have some time tomorrow to try and eyeball a few things. I'll report back. Extra thanks to Zed, that pic will surely help. I'm not nearly enough familiar with all the lingo and location of everything yet. Speaking of lingo, Pilgrim i laughed when i read linguistic lubrication lol.

You are so right Charles! Makes that headliner which is a pain normally a piece of cake.. lol. Trying to get all the stuff on the underside done before the front suspension goes on, and it comes off the rotisserie. The 2 post lift in garage will come in handy for that phase.

If you are not concerned about keeping it original, than you can use any stanard relay. The relay isceasy enough to test to see if it is working properly. If you look for one in a junkyard, you will need the model 280Z up to August 77. After August they changed the relay connector plug to a rectangular 4-pin connector. It does the same thing, but it has two power supply wires were the early version with round connector has one power wire and it is bridged to the relay coil internally. I hope that makes sense...

Hmmm... Nothing like a well thought out follow-up question to get you to fill leaky holes in a previous opinion. Haha! If I were selling a 240Z, I guess it would come down to the condition of the rest of the car and if I considered it "collectible" or not. If I thought the car had solid standing as "original", then I could value the original factory equipped transmission higher (regardless if it were a 4 or a 5-speed). By that, I mean if someone could unquestionably prove that transmission was bolted to that motor left the factory in that car on day one, then I would probably consider that trans as having collector "originality" value. But only if the rest of the car supported that situation. If the exterior had already been irreversibly changed (fender chopped out and flares added, spook instead of original front, etc) and the engine had been changed (someone swapped in an L28 but kept the original trans) and the interior had been irreversibly changed (roll bar), then having the original transmission would mean little to me. In that situation, I would NOT mention the trans being original in a for-sale ad. Unfortunately, I'm not in a position to purchase a collectible 240Z. Now that the prices are rising so quickly, I guess I missed my opportunity. And since I won't be buying one, I guess I won't be selling one. "Driver quality" only for me, and the transmission thing is low on the list.

What wt. oil are you using in the carbs? Thicker oil will enrich the mixture under a load. 20 wt. was recommended by the factory. Were you using the nozzle screws to adjust the mixture? If the floats are at the proper ht. (primary mixture adjustment), 2 1/2 turns down on the nozzle screws should get you close. Do you know what needles you're running?

Just an update on this. I installed the RT Mount. I now have the diff back in. Everything seems very solid. I am very impressed with this RT Mount. Thanks to all you guys for recommending it. I acquired the RT Mount locally in Calgary so if anyone in the western Canada region is looking for one, let me know and I'll connect you to this guy.

Yes! What he said. I would have thrown in the "shop rag" years ago if it weren't for these nice, helpful folks. No attitudes here just people wanting to help solve problems. Amazing group of people!

So we are done with the head liner install on the 74. Too easy. We are using the MSA replacement, which is good in two ways. It is quite stiff, and has a fabric/netting stuff over the foam, so it takes glue really well. We (two of us) held it up and tucked it in all around the outside with no glue first to test fit, center it and to mark center. It pretty much holds itself up without glue its so stiff. One of use then sat in the passenger seat and held up half and kept it in position, while the other guy pulled down the headliner on the other half and sprayed it with glue, waited the 5 minutes as suggested, then stuck it back up. Repeat on the other side, tuck it back in around the edges, all with fingers, no sticks. Done in 30 minutes. Left about 6 inches all around the edge with no glue to make tucking easy. I guess the true test will be tomorrow if its still up there! Thanks for the tips, took all the stress out of by having a plan in mind. Jim