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Never heard of this brand, but it looks like an Italian Pantera. 351 V8 Ford engine, Italian styling. Z car + Corvette = 1971 Intermeccanica Italia Coupe. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-intermeccanica-italia/?utm_source=dm&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2021-02-13 Weird antenna. Looks like a light pole.

Like many things on Japanese cars, it is a copy of another manufacturers part. A Ford transmission I believe, but I don't recall which model. Like anything the Japanese copied, they improved it some. They really are good transmissions, I just don't care for slushboxes in sports or performance cars. Or any cars. Makes people lazy drivers. I never owned anything but manual shifted vehicles up until a couple years ago. I had surgery on my right foot, and couldn't quite coordinate braking and accelerating with my left foot, and operate the clutch by hand with a stick that can clamp to the pedal quickly by depressing a button in the handle (I did this a few years earlier when I had similar surgery on my left foot). So I was forced to get a vehicle with an automatic. Bought the oldest grandson's 95 Eddie Bauer F150. Drove it with my left foot for six months. Now it is my beater shop truck and makes the occasional dump run. If I had any say, no one would get a driver's license unless they are able to drive a stick shift.

JIDECO A picture in another thread posted today shows an electrical relay (rear window defroster, I think) with the manufacturer's name ('JIDECO') stamped on the side of the cover. I didn't recognize that company, but figured that the 'J' maybe stood for 'Japan' and the 'ECO' for 'Electric Company'. The 'I' and the 'D' were a puzzle, though, so I did a bit of on-line searching. The answer lay in the corporate website of another Japanese manufacturer, 'Mitsuba' (wiper motors) that came up in some of the hits I got using, 'Japan + company + JIDECO' as my search string. Hiding in the 'History' page on Mitsuba's site was this entry: 2007: The Jidosha Denki Kogyo Co., Ltd. (Jideco) merged with Mitsuba. A bit more poking around revealed that Jidosha Denki's old website was www.jideco.co.jp. However, that site now just shows a message saying that Mitsuba and Jidosha Denki have 'merged' and providing links to the Mitsuba website. An old Bloomberg listing for Jidosha Denki said that they manufactured wipers, power windows and power lock systems and provided a single address: 1760 Higashi-Matanocho, Totsuka-ku, Yokohama, Kanagawa, 245-8510 Japan. So they were probably located not too far from the Nissan assembly plant in Yokohama. Entering that address into Google Maps shows that it's now listed as, 'Mitsuba Corporation Yokohama R&D Centre'. Street view shows us what the former Jidosha Denki h/q looks like today: Hard to tell whether there's any manufacturing facilities at the back of the property. The front part looks like strictly admin and engineering. The back part may just be lab space. Digging back into Jidosha Denki's history, I found this not-happy story from 1998 in a business trade newspaper: "Jidosha Denki Kogyo has unveiled plans to restructure its operations and those of its subsidiaries, a move which will result in the company's workforce being reduced by 30% to 700 staff by 2000. The company plans to close down three subsidiaries, with production being switched to overseas bases in India, China and Indonesia. The restructuring will leave the company to provide wiper systems, control devices and motors in Japan... Jidosha Denki Kogyo will move all of its mass production of motors for power windows and windscreen wipers to subsidiaries in the Philippines and China for its products to be more cost-competitive to its main client, Nissan Motor. Jidosha Denki Kogyo's two Japanese plants will stop production of these products by March 2002, and will specialise instead in making prototypes and some spare parts, and in assembling complete wiper units." Then in 2002: "Jidosha Denki Kogyo (JIDECO) will have a 35.8% stake acquired by fellow electric motors and wiper systems maker, Mitsuba, affiliate of Honda. JIDECO will issue 15 mil third-party shares on 07 January 2003 as part of the deal. The companies hope that the deal will enable them to improve their cost competitiveness by working together on purchasing, product development and manufacturing. The deal will result in Nissan and Hitachi reducing their stakes in JIDECO to 14.6% and 13.8% respectively." And in 2004: "Jidosha Denki Kogyo, automobile control parts maker, will invest around Y500 mil to restart production at its plant in Tomioka in Japan's Gunma Prefecture. It stopped production at the plant in 2002, but has now decided to use the plant as a major site to improve production technology. It has installed a new assembly line for seat-use operations, which is already in operation; and will transfer another such line from its plant in Kikugawa by September 2004. By March 2005, it will transfer a line for motors used in power windows from Kikugawa to Tomioka." And, finally, this, from the Mitsuba 2006 Annual Report: "The Company has decided to merge with its wholly owned subsidiary Jidosha Denki Kogyo Co., Ltd., effective April 1, 2007. The Company and Jidosha Denki Kogyo, having been closely working, have agreed on the merger to enhance their synergy as an integrated group and seek greater management efficiency. The Company will be the "surviving entity" under the provisions of Japanese Corporate Law following the absorption and merger of Jidosha Denki Kogyo Co., Ltd. and its subsequent dissolution." And that was the end of JIDECO.

Hey thanks for the info. I had actually already ordered that part from Omecha Machine back in November and forgot about it. Apparently they did too. I called them and they told me that they changed part order systems so it was just never sent. I am finally making time to remove the transmission and give replacing it a go.

$30k with 6 days to go? I suspect a lot higher!

Costs?

Just curious how others lock flywheel when tightening crank bolt. I usually pull the starter and get a friend to lodge a screw driver in a flywheel tooth to lock the crank. I don’t like to put a screw driver through the cam sprocket or a wrench on the cam as it could put pressure on the timing chain. If on an engine stand, I have a flat metal straight edge I bolt to crank end (2 bolts) until it rests against engine stand to lock the crank. How do others do this? Just curious. Guy

I just got my friend's reply: "Fill the air inlet of the impact with air tool oil, connect the air and then blast away at the nut. The oil prevents air from going out of the vanes of the impact, and will produce significantly more torque than just air."

You could also use a planetary gear torque multiplier. Most can be used to tighten and loosen. Be sure not to exceed the rated input torque. Thirty years later I still remember the loud bang when I was helping to tighten a large taper hub fastener on a tire shredder to 2000 ft-lbs and we blew up the torque multiplier using a long handled breaker bar on the input.

Engine still in the car? Put long handled socket handle with 27mm socket on said nut, and rest arm against left frame rail. Engage starter for 1.46 seconds. Nut will be loose. Air driven impact wrenches need sufficient air volume to reach their potential. 1000 psi doesn’t matter if it just wheezes out of a small 500 foot long hose...

For the life of me I cannot understand why painters try and tape VIN tags, it always looks bad. Drilling out 4 soft aluminum rivets takes less than a minute and replacing those rivets it is just as easy.

Just went through the pictures. This car has been repainted at least twice. It looks real nice, presents well, but after reviewing the pictures, (no decent pictures of the underside) it is like lipstick on a, um, well I better be nice, so I won't say it. I do like the red though.

Just realized the orange 77 has no outside rear view mirror. That was probably the show stopper.

If you are a Nissan guy working to improve assembly line efficiency, it makes a lot of sense to change from using two different fasteners and two tools to using one style fastener and only one tool - probably a small mallet to drive the pins home.

heck. i bet the garage threw some kitty litter or something on it to try and clean it up....LOL.

There's a very similar discussion going on in another thread. Kind of confusing though, about what parts are being discussed and where they came from. Those ZCD headers don't have matching ports. Four round, two square. You want the ports to match the exhaust ports on the heads.

I would avoid that guy! Search Facebook and you'll find he has his own personal hate group...not everyone can say that. 😉

So many. Hard to keep up. Burgundy 72, classy, looks very original and rust-free. The owner like Ford blue. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-166/

cool story https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/classic-cars/a35432585/datsun-240z-fairlady-z432r-history/

As some of you know, I am in the process of moving from Michigan to Arizona. I have sold my house and am going through the mortgage process on a house in AZ. The move is from a transfer within Ford where I work. I am tired of the cold and the terrible roads, so I got a new job within the company at our Arizona proving grounds outside of Phoenix. The company will move me as well as two cars. I currently have five cars, so I sold one today. That leaves my wife's FJ Cruiser, my Porsche 911, my '78 280Z street car and my late 260Z endurance race car. The Porsche will by my DD along with the 280Z. That leaves the race car. I planned to take it out there, but the more I try to justify it, I just cannot do it. I will have no space in the garage for the car or any spare race car parts, so that puts the car in a permanent storage facility. Not being street legal and me with no trailer means, I can't even move the car around to work on it or race it. My only choice is to sell it. I leave in just over a month and the car is currently on a hoist with the rear suspension off. I plan to work my butt off in the next few weeks to get it back together and off the hoist. I know I will take a beating on the car, but it MUST go. Here's what it is. It was originally built for LeMons and then upgraded for ChampCar and WRL endurance racing. The good: 74.5 260Z with a full race cage. Body is pretty clean with only a bit of rust in the bottom of the rear quarters behind the wheels and a few small holes on the passenger side rear floorpan plus battery tray. No door glass and Lexan hatch glass and quarter window glass. Homemade front airdam and rear spoiler. L28 F54 block with shaved P79 head, Web Racing camshaft, header, MSA premium exhaust, and 3 screw SU carbs. Brand new BHJ Rebello harmonic damper, ZX matchbox distributor 82 ZX 5 speed transmission, lightened factory flywheel, 3.90 R200 diff with RT mount Suspension is fairly stock with KYB strut cartridges, poly bushings, front cross member redrilled for bump steer, large stabilizer bars front and rear Brakes are going on now which are typical Toyota 4x4 calipers w/vented Z31 rotors and T3 spacers up front and Mustang GT vented rotors and calipers with Silvermine caliper bracket in rear. Brand new rear wheel bearings going in now. I have two sets of brand new 15" Rewind wheels that have never been mounted Momo race seat and Crow belts Stock fuel tank with 1/2 gallon swirl tank. Facet fuel pump to pump fuel into the swirl tand and Carter pump to move fuel to the engine The Bad: It's a race car built for LeMons, so it's not pretty Wiring is a mess, but it works. I planned to rewire the entire car before racing it again Interior is dreadful in that it has sheet metal gauge housings and switch plates Currently has no tires since I am doing the brake upgrade which require 15" wheels. I will likely put very old junk tires on a set of the Rewinds to make it mobile Brakes will need a Wilwood 1" Master cylinder and a prop valve which I have no time to do before I leave No title. I bought it out of a barn where it sat for 20 years and I never worked to get a title. Instrument panel (dash) is gone, so there is no rveted VIN plate. Stamped VIN is present on firewall Overall, it runs great and handles extremely well. It will need a bit of work to finish since I am in the middle of upgrading the brakes. It needs to be gone in about 4-5 weeks. Make me a reasonable offer. I have a ton of money in it, but it must go. I'm thinking $5,000 for the car, two sets of brand new wheels, and a bunch of various spares including a few hoods, lots of fenders, headlight buckets and other various stuff I've collected. I'll post a bunch of pics later. They are on my other laptop. The facebook link in my signature has more pics as well.

Good Luck on your move Jeff..........